661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

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Did Randy use different porting numbers on your 660 since it's used for milling?
I believe he said he did something different on this one for the milling ,is a ***** to start sideways on the mill with the high compresion ,i use the decomp often on this one .

That's impressive stuff right there Brian..

View attachment 429614

Makes our chainsaw art look crude..
This was a 27" slab of American Elm.

That is very nice ,i am going to make a picnic table out of 2 slabs side by side like that ,live edge ,will give the 41 inch cannon a workout
 
I believe he said he did something different on this one for the milling ,is a ***** to start sideways on the mill with the high compresion ,i use the decomp often on this one .



That is very nice ,i am going to make a picnic table out of 2 slabs side by side like that ,live edge ,will give the 41 inch cannon a workout
Wanna borrow a 72" cannon for that project??
cannon1.JPG

The big Burr Oak was hollow!!!

:cry::cry:
 
I told Adam I'd send him a pic of the slabs we milled with it, just to find out the damn tree was riddled with various blemishes..
Looked great on the outside though!
So were the 2- 40" Red Cedars...:nofunny:

Our trees suck...
:drinking:
Most of the big cedar buts are rotted here too ........makes em easier to split :innocent:440 hybrid logs 083.jpg hybrid  440 and 12mm 044 080.jpg
 
*Your* hardwoods? Sorry bub, but you do not have the monopoly on hardwoods. You people always think every tree out here is a conifer, but they are not. FYI, hardwoods here in the far west include most all the eastern, Eurasian and some Australian hardwoods as well as the native hardwood species here. I regularly cut white oak, black oak, maple, madrone, chinkapin, black locust, eucalyptus, cherry, alder, etc. etc. Poplar (depending on if it is real poplar, or yellow poplar which is actually a magnolia) and cottonwood are actually pure hell on chainsaws. We have a shyteload of cottonwood here and I do not cut it any more. Too hard on saws, too light a firewood, and its stinks when burned. Also FYI, Doug firs that grow in this vicinity west of the Cascades are denser, stronger and harder than those grown in other areas. For that reason they command a premium here at the mills in this area.

How are Cottonwoods hard on chainsaws? It cuts like pulp. Now I don't care to burn it, as it burns like paper, the same can be said about pretty much all poplar spices. Black Locusts is pretty dense, but the rest of the spices you mentioned cut fairly easily. Sorry it really sounds like you haven't cut much wood that is actually hard.

Remember we don't have the rain or the soil you do, our trees generally grow much slower.

Here's a picture of a Magnolia we have, this is about as far north as I know them to grow.

461a83fee51119ea887ddd1083b3557e.jpg
 
How are Cottonwoods hard on chainsaws? It cuts like pulp. Now I don't care to burn it, as it burns like paper, the same can be said about pretty much all poplar spices. Black Locusts is pretty dense, but the rest of the spices you mentioned cut fairly easily. Sorry it really sounds like you haven't cut much wood that is actually hard.

Remember we don't have the rain or the soil you do, our trees generally grow much slower.

Here's a picture of a Magnolia we have, this is about as far north as I know them to grow.

461a83fee51119ea887ddd1083b3557e.jpg
Are you sayin' ole windthrown has "soft wood"??
 
*Your* hardwoods? Sorry bub, but you do not have the monopoly on hardwoods. You people always think every tree out here is a conifer, but they are not. FYI, hardwoods here in the far west include most all the eastern, Eurasian and some Australian hardwoods as well as the native hardwood species here. I regularly cut white oak, black oak, maple, madrone, chinkapin, black locust, eucalyptus, cherry, alder, etc. etc. Poplar (depending on if it is real poplar, or yellow poplar which is actually a magnolia) and cottonwood are actually pure hell on chainsaws. We have a shyteload of cottonwood here and I do not cut it any more. Too hard on saws, too light a firewood, and its stinks when burned. Also FYI, Doug firs that grow in this vicinity west of the Cascades are denser, stronger and harder than those grown in other areas. For that reason they command a premium here at the mills in this area.
Your growing season is likely twice as long, which effects density..as does the fact we have poor, thin soils in the county I live in. A week ago we had frost and it hasn't cracked 80 till today.. if you go three hours south to Green Bay, WI, the trees will have leaves when we still have snow on the ground.. get the picture?
 
Big Oak & Hard Maple can be pretty tough to cut, especially if the trees are big, but I think Shag Bark Hickory slows my saw down more than anything else.

Also, when they (Oak, Maple, etc) are dead & dry they are much tougher than when they are green.

I think the Oak & Maple logs they had at the upstate GTG this Spring were tougher to cut than the Black Locust they had last year, and I was not the only one to notice it.
 
One oem reccomends that ratio...KTM.
Like I said before, just because you can't wrap your mind around it doesn't meet its rubbish.
And I don't feel the need to prove anything to you.. get of your azz and do some research and you will find I am right.
So what your really implying is that world leading manufacturers like KTM, stihl, husky etc don't know what they are doing by specifying leaner oil ratios which are tried & tested every day by millions apon millions of people in every situation without premature failure & somehow you know better & your right. That's a good one! There should be a joke section for stuff like that to go in. LOL
Thansk
 
Big Oak & Hard Maple can be pretty tough to cut, especially if the trees are big, but I think Shag Bark Hickory slows my saw down more than anything else.

Also, when they (Oak, Maple, etc) are dead & dry they are much tougher than when they are green.

I think the Oak & Maple logs they had at the upstate GTG this Spring were tougher to cut than the Black Locust they had last year, and I was not the only one to notice it.
Growing conditions are a big factor Mike...
Take this one, for instance...

hedge cracks.JPG
It led a tough life...
Lotsa wind and dry growing seasons, mixed in with a heavy top..
If someone can count those rings, you'll see how old it was..
 
So what your really implying is that world leading manufacturers like KTM, stihl, husky etc don't know what they are doing by specifying leaner oil ratios which are tried & tested every day by millions apon millions of people in every situation without premature failure & somehow you know better & your right. That's a good one! There should be a joke section for stuff like that to go in. LOL
Thansk
I didn't say that at all..
The only one belonging in the joke section is you!
FYI KTM only reccomends 60:1 for 250 and 300cc bikes. All the rest of their bikes are 40:1 or less.
Everyone I know runs there ktms richer than 60:1 and these are Enduro guys!
 
Big Oak & Hard Maple can be pretty tough to cut, especially if the trees are big, but I think Shag Bark Hickory slows my saw down more than anything else.

Also, when they (Oak, Maple, etc) are dead & dry they are much tougher than when they are green.

I think the Oak & Maple logs they had at the upstate GTG this Spring were tougher to cut than the Black Locust they had last year, and I was not the only one to notice it.
Oak and maple grown north of the 45 parallel and preferably in a lake effects t snow zone are harder than hickory, locust and the like. Hedge/Osage orange might be harder, but I can't say because I never cut it.
The wood where I grew up in southern MI is night and day different to the stuff we have up here.
 
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