661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

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Someone told me you fellas need somtin about 661 and 066 .............. both of mine be worked

I will say that opening the exhaust more on my ported 066 caused the tune to get up higher in the wood for max power.
WOT unloaded is pig fat burbling rich, she cleans up with 1/3 of the bar cutting (36" .404) .......... and was making the most RPM's in the cut tuned to 13,200-13,300 ............................ but now with a toilet flange for exhaust outlet, she is holding higher RPM in the cut tuned at 13,800.

I do need more time to dial her in, but I believe that a saw should be tuned in the cut for max RPM (while cutting), so long as you 4 stroke out of the wood, I dont care how much she burbles WOT unloaded, I only care about max power in the cut
Its been my expiereance that the fastest cut times are made when the saw either barely fourstrokes or is tuned just past fourstroking with no load full throttle. Of course this changes with wood size and density aka load, but you get the picture.
One other thibg. Husky saws have a different pitch to my severely damaged ears and it's hard to hear them four stroke even when they are quit rich. However, I have 90% hearing loss in my left ear and the right is far from good
 
Its been my expiereance that the fastest cut times are made when the saw either barely fourstrokes or is tuned just past fourstroking with no load full throttle. Of course this changes with wood size and density aka load, but you get the picture.
One other thibg. Husky saws have a different pitch to my severely damaged ears and it's hard to hear them four stroke even when they are quit rich. However, I have 90% hearing loss in my left ear and the right is far from good
I know on this 066, and my 044 (both ported) that just 4 stroking out of the wood is a recipe for low RPM's in the cut. I run a 32" on the 044 and the 36" on the 066 ...................... I have tuned richer while cutting and the RPM's came up (saw on the tach and heard with my half deaf ears)

Now, when I put a 20" on the 066, I saw what you observed ................. close to a slight 4 stroke out of the wood made for the fastest cut in the wood
 
I know on this 066, and my 044 (both ported) that just 4 stroking out of the wood is a recipe for low RPM's in the cut. I run a 32" on the 044 and the 36" on the 066 ...................... I have tuned richer while cutting and the RPM's came up (saw on the tach and heard with my half deaf ears)

Now, when I put a 20" on the 066, I saw what you observed ................. close to a slight 4 stroke out of the wood made for the fastest cut in the wood
I never run anything longer than a 24" Goes back to the load thing I mentioned previously.
Given the stumping you do and the density of hardwood stumps what you say makes sense to me.
 
Never played with the xtorque version but the older version was about a perfect falling saw.
Good eye. I just pulled the 372 out of the box again and it is a x-torq model. I thought I had a 372xp. So is it a 70 or 75cc engine?
 
661s do pull very hard and seem to refuse to give up rpms like a comparable sized saw.

oak, 41" bar, somewhat dull (dull on purpose...trying to see how hot I can get the bar tip) full skip .404 square grd. chain. and yes I'm running 32:1 hp2 :p

(this saw is just muff modded...TM is still working on the other 661s)

 
thread still seems to be revolving about tuning a motor to a specific brand of oil.........not my bag.

getting a motor that is only about 20% thermally efficient at best, blowing raw fuel and oil mist out every stroke to optimize some ideal piston crown color or pattern is next to impossible. these motors just cannot generate enough internal heat, probably even if they had a high output ignition.

the piston burn patterns shown don't look anything close to ideal, and doubt they could be adjusted to anything close to it without burning the motor up, regardless of load.

good luck with this thread.
 
thread still seems to be revolving about tuning a motor to a specific brand of oil.........not my bag.

getting a motor that is only about 20% thermally efficient at best, blowing raw fuel and oil mist out every stroke to optimize some ideal piston crown color or pattern is next to impossible. these motors just cannot generate enough internal heat, probably even if they had a high output ignition.

the piston burn patterns shown don't look anything close to ideal, and doubt they could be adjusted to anything close to it without burning the motor up, regardless of load.

good luck with this thread.
Tuning a motor properly isn't impossible at all. And no need to blow anything up..
Like I said earlier. Mtronic and Autotune are good thing as many just can't grasp proper tune.
 
Tuning a motor properly isn't impossible at all. And no need to blow anything up..
Like I said earlier. Mtronic and Autotune are good thing as many just can't grasp proper tune.
The 576 AT I ported was pig rich with short bars. Anything under a 28" I had to run an 8 pin or really push on it to get it to quit 4 stroking in the wood.
 

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