I noticed the mystic oil in those tests a few pages back. Middle of the road on those tests. But meets our ram requirements. Jaso fd passed. Any thoughts? I think it's available at TS or their knock off stores
Yeah.. They usually kill em long before the lube does...It is. 3 oz per gallon never fails me. I've been into all of my saws and everything is oily wet. A logger buddy has a 385-395xp part saw boneyard full of broken handles, tanks, and missing fins. But none of them are burned up. Same oil
I'm gonna try 4 oz per gal and retune. Maybe next weekend. Time some cuts and see what gives. Who knows.Yeah.. They usually kill em long before the lube does...
Sans one crew here.. Those boys drank the 70:1 opti 2 koolaid..
1 year and out...
They runnin 365xt's...
Of all models, they could use a little more oil... /-:
Your point?4oz.? Cool
Just messin' man....and stuff [emoji6]Your point?
Figured maybe the "old school" oil might be the reason behind the "more oil = more power theory". Curious is allJust messin' man[emoji6]
I have never read that, nor seen that and not from lack of trying.And some report viscosity breakdown in those applications. In some ceases castor is the only option OMHO.
I found Motul 800 to lubricate extremely well, but it left a mess in stock saw mufflers, which I don't necessarily always consider a bad thing.
Im just thinkin out loud but if the port , rings, and mufller r staying alil wet the wet oil isnt gonna turn into carbon is it? Wouldnt it be the burnt depoists that form buildup or the burnt depoists with the oil together?And Andy, if your blowing unburnt oil out the muffler your leaching heat and hp out if the combustion chamber. Its likely you will have deposits sooner or latter in the exhaust port from the unburnt oil accumulating. Potentially the same issue with the ring grooves on the exhaust side of the piston.
I have at least 50 tanks of R50 through this @ 32:1 since the end of last summer. I aint the only one throwing up actual pictures that were taken from saws that get used, and I havent seen anything even close to what you are saying that we will see.Its likely you will have deposits sooner or latter in the exhaust port from the unburnt oil accumulating. Potentially the same issue with the ring grooves on the exhaust side of the piston.
Something like this is the only way you could really test the limits of an oil. Most of us aren't willing to go that far in order to answer these questions. Factories can and do. That's what I mean when I say that most of us don't have the means to find real answers.Just thinking. What if a test took two chainsaws brand new and mixed the two leading oils discussed here and mixed them at 100:1, like Amsoil claims to be able to run at and fill the saws.
Then zip tie the triggers to WOT and see which one fails first. For a longer run until failure mix at 80:1. What if they don't fail? The winner would certainly be the stronger oil, right?
Wouldn't have to use a Pro Saw either. A $200 homeowner saw would suffice would it not? I'd be curious to see what would happen. And I wonder what the inside of the engine would look like.
Thats what im talkin about!! Blowem up!!! LolYou buy the saws, I'll burn them up
If there was an AM cylinder that could be counted on to be very consistent and good every time, you could use the same saw and just swap topends. Yes, this test might damage the bottom ends, but I doubt they'd fail before the topend burnt up.
I agreeI'd expect to see the crank die first.
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