A couple of questions about the Port-a-wrap

[2dogs]

I usually don't rope down big blocks I prefer to bomb them onto bags. In the rare cases where that is too risky my crew are slick enough to allow the rope to run and limit shock loading. One of the precautions they take is to wear a pair of welding gauntlets to prevent friction burns where lighter gloves might tear.

Yep. Let the rope run, till the ground if you can. You have to balance rope speed vs. heat. Heavy duty gloves are a must.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

Also, as the piece rotates; it moves towards block/ slackening rope before tearoff for more impact if block under load. But, if over head rigged and turning over, the line tightens as the load moves away from the block, before tearoff.

Pretensiong can do this too, in fact if load rotates away from block before tearoff, youa re letting it pretighten as it turns, on it's own. Also, on slow, "muscle over" of load, there is sometimes some time in there to pretighten line; especially on block under load, when line is slacking as laod roatates towards block.

Can also on overhead have a line prussicked to center of distance betwixt load and block, to leverage line tension and force stronger hinge as it comes over. The idea is if the hinge is carrying the load, the rope isn't, then get hinge to softly hand off the load to the line, that is tight enough not to impact..

Sometimes on high rig point over load, and some turn, might initally get load to turn the worng way, to tighten line, then let line tension power over load to correct direction, forcing a stronger hinge as it goes, so now you have tight line and storng hinge on it; usually would have one or the other or neither, but, by getting them to force each other...

 

[Raymond]

To this day and everyday from here on.
I'm paying the price for a groundman who
doesn't know the meaning of...LET IT RUN!

Or maybe because I am to damn nice to let
someone go, who I knew just wasn't getting it?

 

[TreeClimber57]

I busted a medium sized porty last summer "experimenting" with a rather large Hackberry.

Question: Was that a factory made porty?

~Always inspect your equipment.

Absolutely, every day and every time before using .. same for any gear that is load bearing or that you are placing your weight on.. And know how to test it properly.

~Buy factory made Porties.(Also worth their weight in gold) And go large.

Always.. sorry, can't say I don't think others can make one but the guys who do it full time and have certified equipment are the only ones I will put my $ towards. If I am going to trust my life or that of others to something, then it has to be something that I can bet on with no question.

 

[southsoundtree]

PORTAWRAPs are great and heavy duty.They will be more predictable, so less likelihood of overloading the rope by snubbing off a piece (takes some getting used to by the groundman.

When using in the tree, you remove the doubling effect of a block redirecting the rope.


If using in the tree, it seems that dynamic loads need to be very small since there is very little rope in the system to absorb the shock.





Someone posted a good trick if you don't have someone to untie you rigged pieces on the ground (say you have the homeowner there for an emergency, and are working alone).

Start by terminating your rope to the tree with a running bowline to the trunk/ branch above your work-piece.

Attach your portawrap above your work-piece.


Hang a bight of rope from the POW down to your piece and back up to the termination running bowline.

use a girth-hitched sling and carabiner to connect your work-piece to the lowering line.

Tighten POW appropriately.

Cut.

Lower on a bight to the ground and release tension on the rope.

Untie running bowline and pull through carabiner to free the line and continue working.

Later, once back on the ground, retrieve each biner and sling.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i do same using tree wrap for friction, and terminate with slip, to lower as 2:1, then i can speedline rest on top. Can even not lower the first allthe way if long so lays down at a slant and keeps line tight. Can even release quick release,e ven under load, and pull ine out, then reset for more, as long as you have krab/sling sets. Have even lowered to 3rd story roof, pretty much inaccessible to all others, then lowered self to, retreive slings, throw stuff off roof-or even once't speedline down from their from line from another tree to carry away from house, then bail off roof yourself and descend.

 

[southsoundtree]

i do same using tree wrap for friction, and terminate with slip, to lower as 2:1, then i can speedline rest on top. Can even not lower the first allthe way if long so lays down at a slant and keeps line tight. Can even release quick release,e ven under load, and pull ine out, then reset for more, as long as you have krab/sling sets. Have even lowered to 3rd story roof, pretty much inaccessible to all others, then lowered self to, retreive slings, throw stuff off roof-or even once't speedline down from their from line from another tree to carry away from house, then bail off roof yourself and descend.

crafty and minimalist!


Trunk wraps will often suffice (probably aside from thorny or sappy trees, but have more wear on the rope and tree (if pruning)and take longer to set up on an intact limb (that is wrapping the working end to be able to lower for a significant difference,if I am thinking about your way correctly).

I think there are times for natural crotch rigging, and times for blocks and braking devices. I use both. Both are good to have in the bag of tricks.

Thanks for the speedlining tricks!

 

[Tim Krause]

I am looking over the port-a-wraps in a couple of catalogs and notice that the WLL is only 2000# on the large model. I'm not sure I would be too comfortable using a porty when I'm blocking down big wood. I don't normally block 2000# chunks when I am butt hitching and it produces some shock but I have before and I will tip tie large pieces, over 2000 pounds often when lowering big chunks. If I am butt hitching a 1500# piece and it drops 1 foot I am looking at 3000#. That's a thousand over what the porty is rated for. I block 1500# chunks all day long. I know that that is not breaking strength but I'd still be going over the recommended WLL. Don't get me wrong, I can see where the porty would be a huge advantage in a lot of situations but I'm not sure it would be the best option for blocking big chunks down?

Also, The mini port-a-wrap looks like it would be really slick to use in the tree. I will often take a wrap up top to control the load from above while the guys on the ground maneuver the limb where it needs to go or cut it up as I lower it. Anyone ever use the mini in the tree or would it be more trouble than it's worth to set up topside?

don't bother with the mini. we have 2 large porta wraps and use them just about every day. much cheaper than a grcs. the only issue is that the rope will get twisted after you rope a piece. it's not that big of a deal as long as the groundie pays attention. as far as wll. we have ours on a large woopie sling and i snapped a 3/4 samson bull rope on a piece of oak. we've also had a piece of wood swing back into the trunk and bend the cylinder portion of the porta wrap . it's still fine. try it you'll like it.

 

[tree md]

don't bother with the mini. we have 2 large porta wraps and use them just about every day. much cheaper than a grcs. the only issue is that the rope will get twisted after you rope a piece. it's not that big of a deal as long as the groundie pays attention. as far as wll. we have ours on a large woopie sling and i snapped a 3/4 samson bull rope on a piece of oak. we've also had a piece of wood swing back into the trunk and bend the cylinder portion of the porta wrap . it's still fine. try it you'll like it.

Thanks. that is exactly the info I was looking for.