SpikeSupra
ArboristSite Lurker
Now this looks great:
http://www.verticalpro.net/lockblock.html
http://www.verticalpro.net/lockblock.html
A product whose time has come.
- Thread starter SpikeSupra
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
wow, sign me up!
This is kinda what i've been looking for high friction=less anchor load, less line to stretch as load self tightens line; yet no cambium damage.
This is kinda what i've been looking for high friction=less anchor load, less line to stretch as load self tightens line; yet no cambium damage.
Dave has had that on his website for a year now, but it is still not available to order, as well, neither is his cool looking ascender. I'm bummed..... Yates has a similar product..not as big tho. I saw it at the ISA show, but can tfind it on website or catalog.
I love doing my own lowering, it saves gmen. I usually use natural branches, they work great. No worries re rope wear, I use cheep 12 strand or old life lines for light lowering.
I love doing my own lowering, it saves gmen. I usually use natural branches, they work great. No worries re rope wear, I use cheep 12 strand or old life lines for light lowering.
Last edited:
Rog. did you catch this?
i do a lot of lowering myself sometimes, especially on 2 line systems. Been shy to say anything, for long ago someone tolde me that was wrong, and that is how climbers get killed; i find more control at my post and view sometimes. But, hesitate to broadcast strategies with such warnings, especially from an olde mentor.
Love high friction =less anchor load, and easier to get load to self pre-tighten a smaller/ isolated piece of line.
Now, i try to rule out impact situations, but if that will be the case, putting the sudden load on a smaller, isolated piece of line can blow it by not having a longer line (rubber band) to take the shock across.
This gives very high potential brakeforce, a way to loosen it and sweat it tight; also if the control line runs horizontally to climber's post, that lessens the anchor load further than if it ran to ground. The remote 'biner release, can also be pulled down, given more support and used as a 2/1 + friction(if working end is anchored) or 3/1 + friction with working end employed. Then reset as pictured. Multi leg systems as this can be used for their mechanical advantage, brakeforce; but steering as well.
Sometimes leaving stobs on host branch as a makeshift porty for end of control line.
i do a lot of lowering myself sometimes, especially on 2 line systems. Been shy to say anything, for long ago someone tolde me that was wrong, and that is how climbers get killed; i find more control at my post and view sometimes. But, hesitate to broadcast strategies with such warnings, especially from an olde mentor.
Love high friction =less anchor load, and easier to get load to self pre-tighten a smaller/ isolated piece of line.
Now, i try to rule out impact situations, but if that will be the case, putting the sudden load on a smaller, isolated piece of line can blow it by not having a longer line (rubber band) to take the shock across.
This gives very high potential brakeforce, a way to loosen it and sweat it tight; also if the control line runs horizontally to climber's post, that lessens the anchor load further than if it ran to ground. The remote 'biner release, can also be pulled down, given more support and used as a 2/1 + friction(if working end is anchored) or 3/1 + friction with working end employed. Then reset as pictured. Multi leg systems as this can be used for their mechanical advantage, brakeforce; but steering as well.
Sometimes leaving stobs on host branch as a makeshift porty for end of control line.
You should see Graeme's video, it is amazing. He has footage of lowering up to 90 foot 3 ton euc branches and tops, using multiple wraps right at the anchor, and rope which must be 1.5 inch stuff!!!
I doubt if we lower anything over 400 lb stuff with natural wraps and crotches, with the 1/2 inch line. Shock loading is never much at all over double the load, I'd reckon. which would put the safety factor at about 7-1,at bit under the rec'd 10-1.
I doubt if we lower anything over 400 lb stuff with natural wraps and crotches, with the 1/2 inch line. Shock loading is never much at all over double the load, I'd reckon. which would put the safety factor at about 7-1,at bit under the rec'd 10-1.
i think that shock loading is low for those that passionately try to eliminate it.
You ever stop and watch another crew?
Shoicking tests everything less (more positive)if ya don't allow it, and fatigues the equipment less too. Steel isn't subject to this fatigue as much as everything else. Theoretically, even 10k test aluminum will only sustain a 2k hanging load but so many years, then snap from faitgue, even without weathering or impacting!
Then there is the part about testing and sharpenning your skills and strategies as situations arise; taking all shock loading out etc. What you get to withness and learn by tweaking and fine tuning that extreme end of the deal, like a mechanic learnig so much about a carbureator when chasing that elusive , last 3% horsepower i guess.
Instead of trying to eliminate 1' of drop/shock thinking in pounds per square foot, i try to draw it down closer to PSI, trying not to get an inch of impact! Just a diffrent scale, can go to smaller units still of course, but then ya realize you just sweat and tweak everything ya can, and go if it is right. Nothing like the grace and power of a well tightened, self working machine ushering something around with no play. Yes 400 # floating like a butterfly in a prescribed , almost impossible path; yep; it's gasm time again!!
You ever stop and watch another crew?
Shoicking tests everything less (more positive)if ya don't allow it, and fatigues the equipment less too. Steel isn't subject to this fatigue as much as everything else. Theoretically, even 10k test aluminum will only sustain a 2k hanging load but so many years, then snap from faitgue, even without weathering or impacting!
Then there is the part about testing and sharpenning your skills and strategies as situations arise; taking all shock loading out etc. What you get to withness and learn by tweaking and fine tuning that extreme end of the deal, like a mechanic learnig so much about a carbureator when chasing that elusive , last 3% horsepower i guess.
Instead of trying to eliminate 1' of drop/shock thinking in pounds per square foot, i try to draw it down closer to PSI, trying not to get an inch of impact! Just a diffrent scale, can go to smaller units still of course, but then ya realize you just sweat and tweak everything ya can, and go if it is right. Nothing like the grace and power of a well tightened, self working machine ushering something around with no play. Yes 400 # floating like a butterfly in a prescribed , almost impossible path; yep; it's gasm time again!!
Last edited:
You got it bro!!! Shocking should be reserved for culture, or accupuncture....
It would be a pleasure to work together sometime.
In fact, you oughta consider joining me in going to Australia some summer, to work with Graeme for a while in the big eucs.
I'm pretty serious about it, would just need to set up the other part of the trip, a couple weeks in New Zealand, heli skiing and skiing the regular lift served ski fields.
Logistically, I'd have to pay to ship some baggage, as ski gear, camera gear, and tree stuff would be a kilo or forty over the limit of the puddle jumper.
It would be a pleasure to work together sometime.
In fact, you oughta consider joining me in going to Australia some summer, to work with Graeme for a while in the big eucs.
I'm pretty serious about it, would just need to set up the other part of the trip, a couple weeks in New Zealand, heli skiing and skiing the regular lift served ski fields.
Logistically, I'd have to pay to ship some baggage, as ski gear, camera gear, and tree stuff would be a kilo or forty over the limit of the puddle jumper.
Tromping around in Murphland; looking for JP?
That could be fun; am humbled and complimented!
Is that past the mall here?
That could be fun; am humbled and complimented!
Is that past the mall here?
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
You mean ALL climbers don't leave a stub for taking a couple wraps when lowering their own cut? I have worked with too many green groundies, and it's much safer for me to control the load when over breakables and leave the groundie free to handle setting the limb only- without worrying about a rope.
I could tell you that I never hold the rope in one hand and my saw in the other, but I won't say that.
Well, been told not to do it several times, so never asked! And i think a climber has better view too, and sometimes the groundke is freed up.
i like taking wraps on stob like PortaWrap or boat cleat; sweating them in tight. i really beleive in Brion Toss's sweating in sequence for taking play and impacting out of a system. Not much on holding line in my hand while cutting, if i cheat then i stand on it, biting control line into the wood!
Then that leaves that hand free, but sometimes grab line between stob and overhead support anchor for load, and stretching line as limb pulls around, then let the line relax gently, for very low shock movement.
i like taking wraps on stob like PortaWrap or boat cleat; sweating them in tight. i really beleive in Brion Toss's sweating in sequence for taking play and impacting out of a system. Not much on holding line in my hand while cutting, if i cheat then i stand on it, biting control line into the wood!
Then that leaves that hand free, but sometimes grab line between stob and overhead support anchor for load, and stretching line as limb pulls around, then let the line relax gently, for very low shock movement.
kf_tree
Addicted to ArboristSite
i lower branch's myself on occaision, usually when in a dead tree and i'm working with an unexperianced groundy. if you carry slings and biners a munter hitch is a quick to set up for lowering some medium stuff.
Well, RB, i need one of these toys to play with and further test strategies and theories.
How do i contact Dave and Yates; whom do wee have to kill and grill?
How do i contact Dave and Yates; whom do wee have to kill and grill?
http://www.verticalpro.net/lockblock.html
http://www.yatesgear.com
You'll have to ask yates, as I dont see the product in the catalog. The item I saw was rather small, if i remember right, as compared to the looks of the lock block.
http://www.yatesgear.com
You'll have to ask yates, as I dont see the product in the catalog. The item I saw was rather small, if i remember right, as compared to the looks of the lock block.
Kneejerk Bombas
ArboristSite King
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2001
- Messages
- 36,971
- Reaction score
- 9,983
I have a Harken ratchet block that I use for light/ medium rigging.
It has two problems, the cheek plate does not open so you need to feed the rope through, and it's not an automatic ratchet, so it's hard to pull slack from the line. It does have a switch on the side to turn the ratchet off though, so if it's close you can do that between limbs.
Harken does have an automatic ratchet, but it's design doesn't lend itself well to tree work.
It has two problems, the cheek plate does not open so you need to feed the rope through, and it's not an automatic ratchet, so it's hard to pull slack from the line. It does have a switch on the side to turn the ratchet off though, so if it's close you can do that between limbs.
Harken does have an automatic ratchet, but it's design doesn't lend itself well to tree work.
Last edited:
Tom Dunlap
Addicted to ArboristSite
The setup that Yates had at their booth was a set of Harken blocks like Mike talked about. Too small a load rating for much of our work.
Dave told me that he has a prototype of the block. When he is done testing it I'll be using it for a while. With Dave's permission, I would share my thoughts on the use of the Lock Block.
Tom
Dave told me that he has a prototype of the block. When he is done testing it I'll be using it for a while. With Dave's permission, I would share my thoughts on the use of the Lock Block.
Tom
mikecross23
ArboristSite Guru
Anyone heard anything new about this Lock Block? Are they available by now?
FSburt
ArboristSite Operative
I will usually self lower smaller stuff by cuttting up most of the wood with the chainsaw and leaving the last bit to finish with the handsaw. Works well for me but I do tie off the load to a stub and then lower it after the line takes up the load when the limb settles into it. Just did a Ponderosa Pine where I had to remove 6 whorls of branches up off the edge of the house with a metal tool shed below so I self lowered the limb until the groundie grabbed the end and pulled it clear of the shed while I fed slack to allow the butt end the come down. Pretty much every limb had to be done this way so it took a little time 1.5 hrs for $125.
Similar threads
