Axe restoration thread

[svk]

I've rehung a few heads that were very well wedged only to have them loose the next time I picked up the tool. Can only assume that the handles were not totally dry from the factory. Will always try to let them dry going forward if I have time.

 

[Lowhog]

Yes its a cold blue for guns. Durable? I guess we will find out!

 

[Lowhog]

A real quick kiss on the mower blade sharpener not to mess up the temper. A hand file will not touch the bits on this head they are hard.

 

[Good Feller]

I have a youth hatchet I'm hoping to get to work on soon. I'll try to figure out how to put pics on here, I'd love to learn as much about it as I can.

 

[rarefish383]

A real quick kiss on the mower blade sharpener not to mess up the temper. A hand file will not touch the bits on this head they are hard.View attachment 623108 View attachment 623109

I worked on my True Temper Kelly Perfect for a while yesterday with a file. There were a couple small rolled over spots where my wife chopped out a stump with it and hit a rock. Very small spot. Where the steel was rolled a little, the file took it right off. When I got past the ding, the file just skated over the steel. I like that grinder, I think the file would clean up the grind marks nicely, Joe.

 

[Multifaceted]

I work on and sharpen axes quite often and I also recommend using a file, particularly a double-cut/single-cut ******* mill file. Nicholson makes one called the 'Axe File' and I find it to be disappointing, such are just about any Nicholson file you buy in today's market. The older American made ones were much better, IMHO.

For coarse and controlled material removal on hardened steel I find the inexpensive Kobalt 8" ******* File to be of good quality. Thick stock, cuts very well. Has double and single cut, double cut really helps in resetting the profile and cuts very aggressively. I can't recommend enough and you can find it at your local Lowes (North America only): https://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-8-in-File/4326447

Keep and use a file card to keep the teeth free of metal shavings to continue to cut well.

Once you get the edge profile established and create that burr, use your sharpening stones to further sharpen and hone the edge, then strop. Even the smallest burr can be the difference in cutting effectiveness.

 

[Good Feller]

 

[Good Feller]

She needs a lot of work but I think I can restore to a new state of beauty.

 

[Multifaceted]

She needs a lot of work but I think I can restore to a new state of beauty.

You got a nice looking project there! Looks like a roofer's hatchet. Any idea of the weight or maker?

 

[Multifaceted]

I've rehung a few heads that were very well wedged only to have them loose the next time I picked up the tool. Can only assume that the handles were not totally dry from the factory. Will always try to let them dry going forward if I have time.

Hmm... that's not good product from a handle supplier. How much BLO or drying oil do you apply on the end grain of the eye/wedge? Also, have you ever heard of a product called Swel-Lock?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZP8H...t=&hvlocphy=9008033&hvtargid=pla-386259174436

 

[Good Feller]

No idea of the maker as it's in pretty bad shape. It's only as big as my hand, and can't weigh more than 3-4 ounces.

 

[rarefish383]

I work on and sharpen axes quite often and I also recommend using a file, particularly a double-cut/single-cut ******* mill file. Nicholson makes one called the 'Axe File' and I find it to be disappointing, such are just about any Nicholson file you buy in today's market. The older American made ones were much better, IMHO.

For coarse and controlled material removal on hardened steel I find the inexpensive Kobalt 8" ******* File to be of good quality. Thick stock, cuts very well. Has double and single cut, double cut really helps in resetting the profile and cuts very aggressively. I can't recommend enough and you can find it at your local Lowes (North America only): https://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-

Keep and use a file card to keep the teeth free of metal shavings to continue to cut well.

Once you get the edge profile established and create that burr, use your sharpening stones to further sharpen and hone the edge, then strop. Even the smallest burr can be the difference in cutting effectiveness.

A guy that used to work for my Dad would use stones and strop. He would get an ax scary sharp. I was about 16, had just started driving. I was stuck on the ground limbing up a giant Cottonwood. I kept complaining to Dad about how heavy the Homelite Super 1050 was for ground work. He said go grab that ax Rufus sharpened. I was walking along knocking off limbs as big as my upper arm with one stroke. Cottonwood is soft, but I was impressed. Then I swung through one limb and caught another one right above the head and snapped it off. Was back on the 1050 the rest of the day.

 

[Multifaceted]

A guy that used to work for my Dad would use stones and strop. He would get an ax scary sharp. I was about 16, had just started driving. I was stuck on the ground limbing up a giant Cottonwood. I kept complaining to Dad about how heavy the Homelite Super 1050 was for ground work. He said go grab that ax Rufus sharpened. I was walking along knocking off limbs as big as my upper arm with one stroke. Cottonwood is soft, but I was impressed. Then I swung through one limb and caught another one right above the head and snapped it off. Was back on the 1050 the rest of the day.

Rufus sounds like a guy who knew how to file and sharpen, a veritable "doctor".

I'm very methodical about sharpening my axes, from primary and secondary bevels, edge geometry, profiling, sharpening and stropping. I like mine shaving sharp. The axe is ready if you can dry shave the hair off of your arms, and I have the patchy forearms to prove it. A sharp axe is a safe axe. I'll sharpen any axe you put into my service and it will impress, I guarantee it.

 

[Trx250r180]

Quit getting notifications for this thread ,looks like page 12 is where i left off ,lol ,I found 2 axe heads in my own garage did not even know i had ,bet they have been there 20 years or so ,an 8 lb mall and a double bit head ,so rehung them on some link handles they had locally in stock ,the mall works real well ,better than the council i picked up new this year ,will try to get some pics for you guys .found a couple splitting wedges made from metal also did not know i had .

 

[Good Feller]

Rufus sounds like a guy who knew how to file and sharpen, a veritable "doctor".

I'm very methodical about sharpening my axes, from primary and secondary bevels, edge geometry, profiling, sharpening and stropping. I like mine shaving sharp. The axe is ready if you can dry shave the hair off of your arms, and I have the patchy forearms to prove it. A sharp axe is a safe axe. I'll sharpen any axe you put into my service and it will impress, I guarantee it.

There's something about honing the perfect edge that's both relaxing and satisfying.

 

[lead farmer]

Quit getting notifications for this thread ,looks like page 12 is where i left off ,lol ,I found 2 axe heads in my own garage did not even know i had ,bet they have been there 20 years or so ,an 8 lb mall and a double bit head ,so rehung them on some link handles they had locally in stock ,the mall works real well ,better than the council i picked up new this year ,will try to get some pics for you guys .found a couple splitting wedges made from metal also did not know i had .

Pics you slacker

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Multifaceted]

There's something about honing the perfect edge that's both relaxing and satisfying.

There is indeed, it's very cathartic.

 

[Good Feller]

There is indeed, it's very cathartic.

It's probably not a good practice but I do the dry shave test for confirmation of job adequately done.

 

[Multifaceted]

It's probably not a good practice but I do the dry shave test for confirmation of job adequately done.

It's the woodsman's litmus test.

 

[95custmz]

Yes, You know it's sharp when you can shave your fully grown beard with it.