Those few were hardware store handles. Literally pounded on the heads and then pounded in the wedge yet they were loose 6-12 months later. Did not use BLO.
Axe restoration thread
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Can anyone identify this axe head? Markings, "M" over "BN".
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Not sure what brands ,wire wheeled the loose rust leaving the patina,wiped some 3&1 oil on them i did not grind the edge that was already there,cleaned up with a file and got a usable edge ,these are my first and second axe handle installs ever , watched billy ray do handle fitment and just did his method ,i used a wood chisel and not a draw knife though ,took about 30 min per axe to fit them,i want to shave the laquer coat off sometime and reburn and oil the handles ,i reused the round wedge that was in the double bit.double bit has no markings, the mall has something above the 8 sm sure they are cheaper axes but had to save them lol
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
The 2 i just did were like that also ,i think bench grinders harden the edge ,once i got through the outer layer with the file it worked real good ,and i was able to shape the edge with the file i dress chain saw bars with .
Nice job!
I'd have run from here to there for that one. If you ever find one with Savage on it let me know. I collect Savage model 1899's, so anything Savage is cool, Joe.
If your on facebook join the axe junkie group. Someone in that group would know those markings.
Good Feller
ArboristSite Operative
That's awesome!
Good Feller
ArboristSite Operative
Does the majority of people on here buy handles for their restorations? I've made a couple from kiln dried hickory and was wondering if you can make handles from hickory branches or if the core wood would make them weak?
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
Can't speak for others, but I do, solely out of necessity. I want to make my own, it's just that none of the hickories on my property are a problem, so I just let them continue to grow. There's a good bit of Ash, though, so I might try to save a straight log and cut stock with a chainsaw. I would buy hickory lumber, but the thickest I can find is 4/4, and it ain't cheap. 4/4 is probably enough to make it work, but I would rather have a little bit extra as margin for error, so 5/4 is what I'm looking for...
As to the limbwood, it might work, but the grain circumference is going to be very small compared to the a wider log, and it will be virtually impossible to get a piece with straight grain orientation for a striking handle. I could be wrong, that's just my take on it.
100% sapwood is ideal, but I remember reading somewhere that the U.S. Forest Service states in their service manuals that up to 50% heartwood is acceptable if not satisfactory, so long as the grain orientation is <45°; closer to 90° is ideal.
As to the limbwood, it might work, but the grain circumference is going to be very small compared to the a wider log, and it will be virtually impossible to get a piece with straight grain orientation for a striking handle. I could be wrong, that's just my take on it.
100% sapwood is ideal, but I remember reading somewhere that the U.S. Forest Service states in their service manuals that up to 50% heartwood is acceptable if not satisfactory, so long as the grain orientation is <45°; closer to 90° is ideal.
I was just watching the morning car shows. There was an advertisement for "Evaporust". Do a search and check out their website. They actually have a picture of before and after on a hatchet, Joe
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
I've used it, works as advertised. It was what I used for my recent Hults Bruk, simply soaked the head overnight in large plastic bag clipped to the side of my utility sink with a spring clamp. I got the 32oz bottle, about $8-10 from Advance Auto Parts. You can reuse it too.
Before:
After:
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
How the heck did I miss this post?
My last alert took me further down the thread. Good job, they look great! I like to use a 4-in-Hand rasp to fit my heads, takes a little longer, but it gets them on there tight enough to where you could probably swing it for a while without a wedge. (Though, I would never, ever do that)
Does that get it clean enough to start bluing without any other prep? I'm gonna brown the next unmarked double I pick up, or if I find one in the shed, Joe.
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
Birchwood Casey states that the steel needs to be "brightened" — at least it does for the Super Blue. I end up brightening it and smoothing out any surface scratches for an even finish, especially if I'm doing the rust blueing technique. I use a pneumatic die grinder with coarse pads, but if you do that, be very careful especially near the hardened steel because it will get hot. I keep a dunking bucket of water nearby in case it gets hot to the touch.
Here is what it looks like all brightened up:
I will take your advise and cut it down, the clear on the handle will be removed also. I'm going to give coffee grinds a shot at staining and a coat of blo.
Good Feller
ArboristSite Operative
That's a real interesting axe head.I've used it, works as advertised. It was what I used for my recent Hults Bruk, simply soaked the head overnight in large plastic bag clipped to the side of my utility sink with a spring clamp. I got the 32oz bottle, about $8-10 from Advance Auto Parts. You can reuse it too.
Before:
After:
Good Feller
ArboristSite Operative
I used to work at wolverine hardwoods and was gonna ask them some 3 or less 5/4. They usually sell it for next to nothing. I've made a couple handles like that. After the first one I could tell I was hooked and will have to buy some of the better tools for it.
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