Axe restoration thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Oops I miss typed. I meant to say they only remove the dead material from trees. I.e. they find a tree that has core rot (and an entry point to the core) then they remove the dead material to make their nest.
That's pretty much how the big black carpenter ants work. They do not attack live wood. Many Oaks will start to rot from the stump up. Has nothing to do with the life of the tree. The life of the tree is the cambium under the bark. The wood is the strength of the tree. The giant Live Oak, called the Angle Oak, I posted pics of a couple months ago is very hollow all over. They have telephone poles propped under almost every limb, yet it is very healthy and growing. The heart wood is actually dead. here's a quicky coarse in tree health, Joe.

https://www.arborday.org/trees/ringstreenatomy.cfm
 
My son has sent me a link to a method for seasoning cast iron cookware with flaxseed oil (food grade version of linseed oil. ) I know axe heads are not cast iron, but I wonder if it could work. It says it gives "a slick surface so indestructible that touch ups are almost never necessary." It is basically baking multiple coats of flaxseed oil onto, and into, the cast iron at oven temperatures so it should be safe for tempered steel. I am on my phone and don't know how to link to it, but it is at cooksillustrated.com. "The ultimate way to season cast iron."

He says he did it to one of their pans, not exactly following all the method and had to stop with that because of the smell in the house, "paint and gas."

abbott295
 
I use cast iron for all of my fish, like Tuna, Mako, and Wahoo. I put the cast skillet on the grill, run it up to 600. Put a little Olive oil in and throw the fish steak on, let it sear on one side for about a minute, flip and repeat, only takes a few minutes for 2 to 2 1/2 inch steaks. Beef steaks the same but about 4 minutes per side, Joe.
 
Bluing with oil/burning oil on to steel/iron gives a fine finish, with the right oil, I just wasn't sure if it would affect the temper.

As to oil, I made the mistake of trying to season a wok with olive oil once or ..... Ten times, useless. Then I was told it's because it burns at too low a temp, rapeseed/flax are much better, something about mono unsaturates content iirc.

I'm very tempted by bluing with oil.... But the remnants of light blue paint on my gift from Dan won't survive....hmmmm


So.... I bought some kettle descaler.... Just a cheap acid, for the cleaning of light rust.... What do people use to neutralise the acid and prevent rapid flash rusting on removal from the bath? Baking soda? Rennie? (That's an indigestion/heart burn remedy in case you don't have that brand) something else?

Might try tea bath after.... Or its the flax and the oven, hmmm, decisions.
 
I just got a bottle of Birchwood Casey's Plumb Brown solution. It is a rust bluing process that leaves the metal brown. It says to use Birchwood Casey's "Barricade" sealer after you've reached the color you want, it is a rust inhibitor. To apply the rust solution you have to heat the metal till water sizzles when dripped on, or about 275 degrees. I did a set of percussion shotgun barrels many years ago, and it looked really nice. I also got a quart of "Evaporust", every one I've asked says it works well, for rust removal, Joe.
 
I'm not a fan of shiny axes , I'll usually grind and file away any defects to get things into shape and that's it , after I rehaft I'll coat the head with whatever mix of linseed/teak/tongue/walnut oil I have on hand and let it setup .
Neil , I'm glad it made it !
Not sure what that one is but the blue , scandi grind and stamped 700g makes me think it's a Scandi of some type .
Drill out the remains of the wood and reuse the steel wedge , get a nice haft from Hultafors for the refit .
 
Yes the postmen delivered it yesterday, made me very happy all day!

I know very little more then I've read here, so basically just that it's likely Scandinavian from the blue colour. I'll acid clean off the light rust to see if there is any marking hiding but there's nothing apparent. Lovely head though, should make a great kindling splitter. Thank you!
 
I didn't see anything other than the weight stamp .
Some of the Scandi exports weren't labeled at all , some just "Made in Sweden" and some had the manufacturer .
You're welcome , I hope it serves you well .

I did pick up another 3lb "made in Sweden" today ;)
 
Such awesome progress in this thread these past few days, looking forward to seeing the fruits of labor! I've got an old 70's era Craftsman 4 lb single bit that I'm working on as a gift for whomever I deem worthy. I'm reaching a point to where I have too many axes to use. Some barely see any work because I so many others that have preference or utility advantage... I still love it, though. Axes will always be cool to me.
 
Such awesome progress in this thread these past few days, looking forward to seeing the fruits of labor! I've got an old 70's era Craftsman 4 lb single bit that I'm working on as a gift for whomever I deem worthy. I'm reaching a point to where I have too many axes to use.
No such thing as too many, until you have one of each, and start to accumulate doubles. Pun intended, Joe.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top