Baileys 290/390 shortblock GTG timed rebuild thread

[TALLGUY]

Iowa fall gtg pics to follow. The saw was rafled off for local good cause. I will admidt I won the drawing. Thanks to all who made it happen. I am still deciding to plug or drill for the decomp. Thanks Scarr52 for the bar and chain and decomp. Mitch stood up and did the build. Scott (treemonkey) sat at the end of the table to keep it honest. Someone will have to update the time. Somewhere around 45 min. The saw was not disasembled to clean first. It had been apart not long before and looked to only have some test cuts. The bigest hurdle has to be the fact most of the saws this block works on don't have decomp. If the plug ether was in the kit or sold as a footnote it would be a huge improvement. If it didnt require disasembly of half the saw to access the decomp hole it would be less of an issue.

 

[mweba]

47:19. Scott and I came to the conclusion that anything under a hour is hardly realistic on a real world saw. Both of the donors had been cleaned thoroughly prior to the swap reducing the time greatly. Also the way the the build was structured made us take a second look at our normal procedure. All manual tools slowed us a bit as well as changed my steps of disassembly.

Props as well, even if I practiced, and believe me that would be a cold day in hell, I wouldn't beat Scott's time.

 

[andydodgegeek]

The part # for the plug from Stihl is 1122 025 2200. I got the plug in finally and ran the saw for a short time. I havent gotten to make any cuts with it yet but will try to this week some night after work. I think it took me almost as much time to put the plug in as it did for Treemonkey to do the rebuild. I brough it to Grande dogs attention about the missing plug and he said they would remedy the problem. They are going to be supplying a plug with the kits.

 

[TALLGUY]

View attachment 256157View attachment 256158View attachment 256159View attachment 256160View attachment 256161

Nathan getting the saw ready

Mitch getting started

 

[TALLGUY]

View attachment 256164View attachment 256165View attachment 256166View attachment 256167View attachment 256168

had to change out the scrench, the clutch did a number on it

I don't know if that was a smile or not

posing with the finished product

 

[ri chevy]

Nice. Thanks for sharing. Well........Did it start? And any pics of the damaged piston and cylinder? Come on now. Inquiring minds want to know here.

 

[TALLGUY]

so far as I know engine that was removed still ran. He thought it may have had a leak. I have to get a hold of the dealer for some odds and ends and will see if they have the plug for the decomp. If not i have a valve to put in it and I will drill the plastic for it to fit. I have a list of neighbors to suprise. I hope this ends up stronger than a stock 290. It will be a real sleeper. 290 is a "big" saw to the farmers around here. I can't wait for the first farmer I have try it. Hope they notice a diffrence.

 

[ri chevy]

Cool. Like a hot rod big block "Farm Boss"!

 

[angelo c]

not sure if it adds anything to the thread but I keep a plug on hand that fits decomps from 440 to 660 just as a way to eliminate the decomp button from the diagnosis( leak testing). seems cheap enough and easy to swap out in a pinch.

looks like y'all had a fun time.

 

[ri chevy]

Good idea. Do the decomp valves fail regularly?

 

[angelo c]

Leak pretty often, not a full "fail" but enough to cause symptoms.

 

[ri chevy]

Hmmm. Thanks.

 

[cedar hacker]

I just finished this project. This was my first build ever.what kind of pitch do yall have on this set up.i have the .325 that was on the 290.but iv heard good things about the 3/8 but wasnt sure if it was worth it on this or just leave it.i ended up just putting a bolt for the decomp.

 

[H 2 H]

I just finished this project. This was my first build ever.what kind of pitch do yall have on this set up.i have the .325 that was on the 290.but iv heard good things about the 3/8 but wasnt sure if it was worth it on this or just leave it.i ended up just putting a bolt for the decomp.

Go 3/8's

 

[ri chevy]

Any long term updates on this saw that was rebuilt with the 290/390 bolt on upgrade kit? Very curious to know from the guys running this 390 upgrade kit. Longevity? Power wise?

 

[nstueve]

Any long term updates on this saw that was rebuilt with the 290/390 bolt on upgrade kit? Very curious to know from the guys running this 390 upgrade kit. Longevity? Power wise?

I've put several of these and other AM kits on 029/290's and they've come back every year for sharpening and maybe a tube up. I have noticed you'll want to check several things.

1. Impulse barb on cylinder. Sometimes these are loose and not as pressed fit as they should be. I usually pull them with needle nose pliers, add a very very very small dab of hondabond and slide back in and peen the areas around the barb with a nail punch. This keeps air leaks down

2. Don't use the AM decomp, they all leak. Or at least 70% of them do. Put the plug in.

3. AM ring suk. Buy and use cabers when installing

4. Don't use the Chinese spark plug, get a Bosch or NGK

5. Pre-tap the bottom cylinder bolts and the ground wire bolts. They are too tight or wrong size usually for OEM hardware.

After that you should be set for a long time. I have a guy that does tree work on the side that has run his for 5-6 years with several hundred hours on it (his claim, not mine) and I have only replaced the AM rings with cabers for him.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ri chevy]

Excellent. Thank you.
Was this the NWP short block cylinder assembly from Baileysonline?

On edit, I think I just read your review. Thanks for the extra info!

 

[TALLGUY]

I was the one that ended up winning this saw. I must say for a farm/homeowner saw this saw is great. Pulls the 3/8 20" very strong. I have only put maybe 10 tanks through it since it was built. It is the NWP short block. I am thinking about tearing it back down and resealing the block. We didn't mess with that during the build. I did check and it holds vac. Nate is right that the aftermarket de-comp valve leaks. I have put a de-comp plug in all the others I have done for people. I agree on changing out the rings and resealing the block. One of the crank seals was almost falling out of one I built at home.

 

[ri chevy]

Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate the heads up info that you guys learned from using the saws without me having to go through the same learning process.

 

[nstueve]

Thanks for the feedback! I appreciate the heads up info that you guys learned from using the saws without me having to go through the same learning process.

If you are thinking of going this route I suggest the hyway 390 kit. I think Dave has them and the cabers to go with it. He also can get OEM Stihl stuff to so it's easy to get a new OEM fuel and impulse line. AM crank seals work just fine.

Also, If you need to split and re-seal it use yamabond, or hondabond, or dirko. Lastly if you plan to split and re-seal don't bother with the full short block. You don't gain anything but the pain of pulling the rear bar stud. I pull and re-seal these with the bottom of the clam shell in the saw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk