Bar oil pouring made easy

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
While I don't go splashing oil around like some rapper with a bottle of krystal (sp?). I really don't think a couple drops spilled really matters. Think about it, every drop you pour into that tank is gonna come shooting off the chain and spray all over the woods. The only "green" way to cut wood is with a hand saw or an axe. You should try that sometime if you ever get a chance to climb down off your high horse.

I am talking about minimizing the oil that is fired all over the place. A couple drops here and there do add up. While we can not be 100% green we can minimize the impact we do cause. A quart of oil can contaminate a quarter of a million gallons of water so what can your few drops do?

And my horse is 17 2 so yes she is quite tall and I can assure you she is 100% bio friendly.
 
I let the oil go where it goes, so be it. In the winter I usually cut my bar oil with saw gas, I can't be waitin all day glug, glug, glug. On a quick note, my ground guys always poke two holes in the foil safety seal to slow the oil down. When I see that I rip the whole seal out, Its bar oil, lets go, ain't ya never spilt no oil before?

I try to avoid waste but like you I realize time is money on a job too. I don't think you are recommending pouring bar oil everywhere, just pointing out that a couple tablespoons spilled ain't exactly the end of the world. I literally had to retrain some of my men to not waste $30 time to save a thirty cent piece of material! Their old bosses whined about material consumption so they had gotten used to doing the job far slower to save on materials. Always a balance and I can't see being silly either way. If somebody is dumping a quart of oil to fill an eight ounce reservoir I'm going to be on their butts, if they are transferring the oil with an eye dropper to be sure they fill to the proper level and avoid spills, I'm gonna be on their butts about that too!

Hu
 
I try to avoid waste but like you I realize time is money on a job too. I don't think you are recommending pouring bar oil everywhere, just pointing out that a couple tablespoons spilled ain't exactly the end of the world. I literally had to retrain some of my men to not waste $30 time to save a thirty cent piece of material! Their old bosses whined about material consumption so they had gotten used to doing the job far slower to save on materials. Always a balance and I can't see being silly either way. If somebody is dumping a quart of oil to fill an eight ounce reservoir I'm going to be on their butts, if they are transferring the oil with an eye dropper to be sure they fill to the proper level and avoid spills, I'm gonna be on their butts about that too!

Hu

Point taken. I am just used to the way things are done in the EU. Very strict guidelines and it seems to work for them quite well. The thread was started in the quest to find an easier and be it cleaner way to transfer bar and chain oil. A dribble here and there will add up I am sure. But I think we all can agree if one strives for no dribbles, takes an extra min to fill up carefully then it is better for us all.
 
Point taken. I am just used to the way things are done in the EU. Very strict guidelines and it seems to work for them quite well. The thread was started in the quest to find an easier and be it cleaner way to transfer bar and chain oil. A dribble here and there will add up I am sure. But I think we all can agree if one strives for no dribbles, takes an extra min to fill up carefully then it is better for us all.


I certainly don't encourage pollution. Rode around my place earlier today and as usual had to pick up a fair amount of other people's trash! However I do try to keep things in perspective. Most of my spills are wiped up but then they eventually find their way to a landfill which is part of the earth too. I suspect in some distant future people will be deliberately mining our old landfills.

I like the screw on top with valve and clear plastic tube for cans when filling my bigger oil tanks, I find a simple squirt bottle to be best for adding a few ounces. I hold the nipple a few inches from the tank opening and then I can see when the oil is to the proper level. I may go with a larger and freer flowing version of the squirt bottle for bigger saws, does seem to be the quickest and least messy way to fill oil tanks.

I just bought my first liter of H1-R to try ester based two-cycle oil. Over $20 a quart definitely caused some sticker shock. I suspect there won't be much spillage pouring it!

Hu
 
Rest assured I'm talking about half a teaspoon, if I spill any at all. Just curious, you said it took you about 20 seconds longer than normal, what's normal?

Hey Arrow good job saw a problem and went at it.
 
Rest assured I'm talking about half a teaspoon, if I spill any at all. Just curious, you said it took you about 20 seconds longer than normal, what's normal?

Hey Arrow good job saw a problem and went at it.
from totally empty it is about 10 seconds with the gas/oil system I use. cold about 30 seconds.

 
I liked your idea of the hose in the cap. So I did it and it works great. Thanks for the great idea. I always hate filling out of a full oil jug cause I always make a mess, but not no more thanks to you.

P.S. My grandpa seen it and thought it was a great idea as well.
 
I had to watch that twice. SMH, if you listened to the sound the oil makes it sounds the same as the fuel side. What I really liked was the actor wiping down a new saw. When the oil fill was removed from the oil tank, nothing, not a residual oil thread, a drop of oil. Strange with all the viscosity additives in bar oil. I can guarantee you that oil fill won't work at 10*F. How do you vent the air out of the oil tank. Even free pouring oil when its that cold the oil tank has a problem venting and that's with an inch opening. Only way I see it working in a cold environment is it would have to have a regulator and a pressure source and that still wouldn't work.


from totally empty it is about 10 seconds with the gas/oil system I use. cold about 30 seconds.

 
Along with the CO2 pressurized injector system, it also has an 18 volt, rechargeable lithium battery powered heater. Keeping the bar oil at optimal flow temperature. The great thing about the pre heated oil is it aides in making the saws easier to start in sub zero weather!
Just poking fun, and my hats off to arrow who did come up with a simple yet great spout.
 
Thanks for the idea! Made me go kick around in my barn. As I thought I had a plastic hose like that on a threaded top and valve assembly I had bought somewhere on the road for putting oil in a truck. Filled a gallon jug with bar oil and screwed the valved hose on top. That should let me control flow and should be adequate flow, if not I'll whittle out some plastic screening from a filter in the valve area.

Hu
 
I was havin a problem getting 90 weight gear oil in a rear of one of my truck a while back. I poked a hole in the gallon container a little smaller than the tube, slipped the tube in, then jammed the air blowing tip nozzle on my air hose into another hole I poked into the gear oil jug and pressurized the oil jug and filled the rear.
 
I had to watch that twice. SMH, if you listened to the sound the oil makes it sounds the same as the fuel side. What I really liked was the actor wiping down a new saw. When the oil fill was removed from the oil tank, nothing, not a residual oil thread, a drop of oil. Strange with all the viscosity additives in bar oil. I can guarantee you that oil fill won't work at 10*F. How do you vent the air out of the oil tank. Even free pouring oil when its that cold the oil tank has a problem venting and that's with an inch opening. Only way I see it working in a cold environment is it would have to have a regulator and a pressure source and that still wouldn't work.

I am pretty sure they use Stihl SynthPlus which flows at -20 °C so that's not too bad. Also in the EU you have to keep the adverts pretty accurate. I use it with the normal Orange bottled Stihl B/C oil and it flows pretty good. Milkman I am not sure why they do not! When I first saw them I wanting one straight away but no matter how much I searched I could not find one. So when I was in Germany I just bought one and packed it in my luggage. It is not so much the container rather it is the spouts. I plan to buy another when I go again in may.. perhaps the CF bar as well.
 
Hi,
I´ve used my Stihl combican in -28 C, thats about -19 fahrenheit i think, no problems. Winter grade oil is a must if you want to get it out of any kind of can when it´s that cold (without the aid of scrench that is...) I´ve got the e-lux one as well, not as good in cold and it only has the autofill spout on the mix side.combi.jpg
Husqvarna/e-lux is apparently bringing an updated version to the market shortly:

kombidunk-451038be.png
 
If you mean the green cap on the older husky can, its just a cap for the mix spout. There's a place to hold it, the cap on mine has been missing for ages anyway since you dont't really need it...
 
The strange thing about the "auto spouts" is that in Germany you are actually not allowed to transport it in the car without switching over to regular screw caps. Of course nobody really cares but if you get caught you pay a fine!

7
 
It don't matter what kind of easy fill device I use, I am PRONE to overfilling, oil and gas both! Quart bottles for my oil work just fine for getting it in.
petrol-can-6-l-1d3b5721.png


You'll never over fill again(it's like an F1 fuel can) press it down, and it fills the saw up in seconds and stops when it's full. I used rapeseed and saflower oil for lube, so don't bother removing that from the factory container.
 
Back
Top