I usually run cam2 it cost 6.99 at rural king.Me thinks I should grab 2 or 3...
https://www.menards.com/main/outdoo...5269720176.htm?tid=-509676618454932485&ipos=2
The name brand oil is overpriced and doesn't do any better than the cheap stuff. usually if they are out of bar oil i will grab a 5 quart jug of 10w30 for 12.99 that works fine as well.Don't got 1 in my area. We have a Theisen's farm supply that carry homeowner Stihl and Husky. I think they have 4 or 5 brands of bar oil there but generally cost more there...
cheapest 10-30 at Walmart is now around $22 locallyThe name brand oil is overpriced and doesn't do any better than the cheap stuff. usually if they are out of bar oil i will grab a 5 quart jug of 10w30 for 12.99 that works fine as well.
I don't know that I've seen motor oil cheaper than bar oil, ever.cheapest 10-30 at Walmart is now around $22 locally
Use Canola oil .We run a small herd of cattle on pasture, and they also take shelter in what woods we have --maybe 5-7 acres. They eat mostly grass, may-October, grain thru winter, they may even eat the occasional acorns when they are in the woods. And they water themselves and cool themselves off in a pond just downslope from the biggest stand of woods. Not a total tree hugger, otherwise I would only own battery powered chainsaws (or no chainsaws), but it did get me thinking about flinging oil all over the edges of the pasture. My MS 290 and 460 always seemed stingy about throwing oil, but I guess they did because I'd have to refill it regularly. Haven't really had a pile of chips or sand where I could test the Echos yet.
I am now using Stihl's supposedly biodegradable stuff.
The dealer says me and the local university are the only ones who buy the stuff. They must buy enough to keep him ordering it. We'll see how it holds up in the winter. Always before I'd use the Stihl blue bottle in cold, orange rest of the year.
Guess I could always switch to olive oil, and market beef to Italian restaurants.
I use canola I switched when bar oil got expensive. Pretty happy with itUse Canola oil .
Much cheaper than Stihl's eco bar oil .
Canola oil has higher lubricity than mineral oils,while is 100% biodegradable and non-toxic.
Canola oil does not harden overtime.It does not "dry" .
Best bar oil substitute,by far.
Canola oil does NOT gum up or dry ,like linseed and hemp oil do .Canola oil gums up and turns to sticky plastic if you let it sit. It also mixes with sawdust and coats EVERYTHING.
I used to run it, but had to tear my saw down and clean it with oven cleaner to get the goo off everything.
Never again.
Canola oil does NOT gum up or dry ,like linseed and hemp oil do .
I feel sorry for your experience ,
but I can't think of anything else than that you have used something else than canola oil or it was not pure canola oil.
Every oil mixes with sawdust,but
"canola oil sawdust pulp" is the easiest to remove by far.
There are many other vegetable oils that do not dry or gum ,
like :
But either they are very expensive to be used as a bar&chain oil ,or
- Almond oil
- Baobab oil
- Cocoa butter
- Coconut oil
- Macadamia oil
- Olive oil
- Peanut oil
a for technical reason can't be used as such.
Rapeseed oil ( aka Canola oil) was once used as the main machine oil base ,before the mineral oils came to scene.
And also it has a unique ability being that it is the only natural occurringlubricant(from mineral,animal or vegetable)that sticks to wet metal.
For that unique property was used extensively in steam engines and marine applications .
https://www.researchgate.net/public...of_mechanical_-_Dynamic_investigations_part_2
https://ahdb.org.uk/the-physical-characterisation-of-rapeseed-oil-based-lubricants
https://www.biona-oils.com/bar-and-chain-oils-saw-guide-oils
http://fluidcenter.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/VSG-Canola-Oil-Advantage.pdf
https://www.researchgate.net/public..._Between_Canola_OilZDDP_and_SAE_40_Lubricants
https://www.machinerylubrication.co...es-disadvantages-of-biodegradable-lubricants-
You might want to recheck your oil supply. I milled with canola last year in my tank and my drip feed. It doesn't stick to the saw or plasticize like you claim. It does not sit in my oil tank long term and is never mixed with anything but STP oil treatment if I needed it as an anti sling agent that day. It gets drained out of my tank and replaced with regular bar oil to run through the system and no adverse effects. My chain wear is the same as regular bar oil and the bar wear is about the same. No gum, no goo and nothing sticks to the saw any different.You're behaving as if your suppositions and assumptions are as valid an argument as my actual lived experience. You are incorrect.
When my saw gets gummed up, I can't show it a fancy link that says it can't possibly have done what it did, and have it clean itself.
I think people who use motor oil tend to use drained oil, which would just go to recycle tub. So essentially it's free.I don't know that I've seen motor oil cheaper than bar oil, ever.
Have you read my post ?
Do you really think that you are the only one that has tried canola oil at his chainsaw?
How come my own EXPERIENCE is wayyyyy different than yours ,huh ?
Links are provided for further knowledge (which BTW was painfully extracted through lots of research ,experimentation and more research) and not to be used as "fact checkers".
So ,as I 've already stated : I seriously doubt that it was pure canola oil the one that messed up your saw.
There is a long-long history of canola oil used as a machinery lubricant and was never-ever recorded that it gums or dries.
You're actually the first person that ever had such experience .
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