Best chain for a Husqvarna 435 & hackberry.

[ClickClickBoom]

Hello,

I'm hoping you can help out a novice, read the chain FAQ's, still not sure what/ where to get the best chain for my task.

I had a 90 ft tall hackberry cut down, and had them cut the trunk / limbs in 16 in sections. I need to quarter some of these to be able to get them into a splitter.

I only have a Husqvarna 435 with a 16 in bar, and a bigger saw isn't in the budget. Can you recommend the best chain to cut through this? I heard that hackberry is hard on chains?

Thanks!

 

[blsnelling]

A sharp non-safety chain.

 

[muddawg]

never had any issues with hackberry and a sharp chain

:msp_biggrin: even a safety chain didnt cause any problems

mike

 

[barneyrb]

If it has .325 then anybodys non safety chain should be ok, full or semi chisel is your choice.

If it has 3/8 lo-profile then I would use that new Stihl I think it is 63PS3. I just put 3 tanks through a Poulan S25DA this morning with that set up on it and it will not back up, very good chain for 3/8 lopro.

 

[Sagetown]

A Safety Chain is for those who carelessly stick the nose of the bar into the wood or hard object with the chain turning on the bar. Doing it will cause the bar to kick back up towards the operator.

A non-safety chain cuts faster than a safety chain.
A Semi-Chisel chain works well in dirty conditions.
A Full-Chisel chain has wider teeth and dull quickly in dirty conditions

For a 435 w/16"bar ~
A Husqvarna chain H22-66 is a good Semi-Chisel chain
An OREGON 20BPX-66 is also a good Semi-Chisel chain
I prefer OREGON brand.......

 

[RAMROD48]

A Safety Chain is for those who carelessly stick the nose of the bar into the wood or hard object with the chain turning on the bar. Doing it will cause the bar to kick back up towards the operator.

A non-safety chain cuts faster than a safety chain.
A Semi-Chisel chain works well in dirty conditions.
A Full-Chisel chain has wider teeth and dull quickly in dirty conditions

For a 435 w/16"bar ~
A Husqvarna chain H22-66 is a good Semi-Chisel chain
An OREGON 20BPX-66 is also a good Semi-Chisel chain
I prefer OREGON brand.......

Or people with no experience and dont know any better...

 

[hamish]

Just make sure whatever chain you choose to go with (LPX if its clean) let the saw to the cutting (no need to lean on it, if the chain is sharp it will self-feed), take it easy and go dammit, that 435 can cut some wood!

 

[ClickClickBoom]

A Safety Chain is for those who carelessly stick the nose of the bar into the wood or hard object with the chain turning on the bar. Doing it will cause the bar to kick back up towards the operator.

A non-safety chain cuts faster than a safety chain.
A Semi-Chisel chain works well in dirty conditions.
A Full-Chisel chain has wider teeth and dull quickly in dirty conditions

For a 435 w/16"bar ~
A Husqvarna chain H22-66 is a good Semi-Chisel chain
An OREGON 20BPX-66 is also a good Semi-Chisel chain
I prefer OREGON brand.......

This saw uses the narrow kerf .325 H30 chains, I think your reccommendations were for the regular style chain?

 

[ClickClickBoom]

Or people with no experience and dont know any better...

I'm not an expert, but also not an idiot :msp_razz:

 

[Sagetown]

This saw uses the narrow kerf .325 H30 chains, I think your reccommendations were for the regular style chain?

That's correct. My referral is for the standard bar. You're on top of this subject, which is 'Right On'. I still would go with the Semi-Chisel. It does a great job. The Full-Chisel makes a lot more sawdust.

 

[ClickClickBoom]

I think I can use any chain with:

•66 drive links
•.325" pitch
•.050" gauge

I was looking at baileysonline.com and will admit it's rather confusing.

(Bailey's - Chainsaw Chain > Oregon Chainsaw Chain > Oregon .325" Pitch Chainsaw Chain)

The Oregon 95VPX is the only one listed as narrow kerf. But the .050 guage is what indicates the narrow kerf, which is what is needed for this saw/bar, correct?

With that in mind, I can either go with the BPX or LPX which are both more agressive that the VPX which I believe is the stock type chain?

 

[REJ2]

Hackberry is predominately what I cut, its not at all hard on chains. Lets discuss the way your going to quarter them big rounds. Laying the rounds on the ground with the bark touching the ground allows you to enter the bark with your bar parallel to the ground is the way you want to approach it. Lengthwise not crosscut. Any sharp chain will cut Hackberry with the crosscut and or noodling approach. Ripping is another story. For more info search the word noodles.

 

[Sagetown]

I think I can use any chain with:

•66 drive links
•.325" pitch
•.050" gauge

I was looking at baileysonline.com and will admit it's rather confusing.

(Bailey's - Chainsaw Chain > Oregon Chainsaw Chain > Oregon .325" Pitch Chainsaw Chain)

The Oregon 95VPX is the only one listed as narrow kerf. But the .050 guage is what indicates the narrow kerf, which is what is needed for this saw/bar, correct?

With that in mind, I can either go with the BPX or LPX which are both more agressive that the VPX which I believe is the stock type chain?

Okay; Bailey's confused me too. .050"gauge is the Bar's gap width for the chain drivers. The Kerf is the width of the tooth. The standard Kerf will not have any effect on the gauge. When looking at the VPX , BPX, and LPX, the tooth increases in width, (V) being the narrowest, and (L) widest. At least that's the way mine look.

p.s. I might as well add the Pitch: I'm thinking that a .325" pitch chain link is measured from the 1st pin hole on a "Drive Link" to the 1st pin hole on the next "Drive Link", which would be equal to 0.65" per length of chain link.

 

[ClickClickBoom]

Got the chains ordered. Thanks All.

 

[Philbert]

This saw uses the narrow kerf .325 H30 chains, I think your reccommendations were for the regular style chain?

Got the chains ordered. Thanks All.

First, welcome to A.S.!

Second, hope it's not too late - but your options are a bit more limited with the narrow kerf chain. It is what came on my Husqvarna 353 and I like it. It uses less horsepower to cut a narrower kerf, but is not a beefy as a regular chain and will not take the same abuse or hold up on a higher powered saw.

Don't want to insult you if you know this, but you started out by stating that you are a novice: the chain, guide bar, and drive sprocket work together as a system. If you change one, you may need to change the others.

Specifically, for your saw, if you try to use 'regular' 0.325 pitch chain, you need a standard guide bar, even thought they are both 0.050 gauge. The narrower bar will not support the regular links properly. You might have some clearance issues with your clutch cover with the wider chain, maybe not.

Same thing is true in reverse: don't put narrow kerf chain on a standard bar as the bar may hang up in the cut due to lack of clearance.

Husqvarna's H30 chain is made by Oregon. They sell it as 95VG, which only comes in a semi-chisel, low-kickback version. Other companies may sell other versions of narrow kerf chain.

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/misc/MicroLiteBroch.pdf

The H30 / 95VP chains cut very well if kept sharp - they do not have the raised tie straps that annoy some users of low kickback chain.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

I had . . . them cut the trunk / limbs in 16 in sections. I need to quarter some of these to be able to get them into a splitter.

Another thing - since you do not have a huge saw, take your time quartering these. A 16" bar buried in 16" wood will put stress on the saw, especially if your chain is not really sharp and/or you try to push it. Use a light touch, let the chain do the work, and clear the saw from the work periodically.

Also, do a search on this site for 'noodling' - cutting the sections from the side instead of 'ripping' from the ends. It is something that I learned from this site (your chain is designed for 'cross-cutting' the log into sections).

Philbert

 

[Sagetown]

Philbert ~ Specifically, for your saw, if you try to use 'regular' 0.325 pitch chain, you need a standard guide bar

So, this narrow kerf .325" bar for a Husky is like a 3/8" low profile bar for other small saws, is that basically what your saying? If that's the case he definitly needs the narrow kerf chains.

 

[Philbert]

So, this narrow kerf .325" bar for a Husky is like a 3/8" low profile bar for other small saws, is that basically what your saying? If that's the case he definitly needs the narrow kerf chains.

Narrow kerf chain is usually .325 pitch, but can be 0.043 or 0.050 gauge. It needs to be run on a narrow kerf bar of the correct gauge. It uses a standard drive sprocket. Oregon calls their narrow kerf chain 'MicroLite'.

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/misc/MicroLiteBroch.pdf

3/8" Low Profile chain needs a 3/8LP drive sprocket and nose sprocket in the bar. I learned from A.S. threads that it is not really interchangeable with 'regular' 3/8" pitch.

They are both good chain systems, but you have fewer choices in cutter/chain styles than when running standard 0.325 or 3/8" pitch chain. So the OP needs narrow kerf chain on that saw.

Philbert

 

[Sagetown]

This is my understanding then of this NK rigging.
There is no harm done if the OP uses a standard chain on his NK Bar. It is nothing like the lowprofile vs standard 3/8 set-ups. Even the NK chain will work on a standard bar, but maybe not as fast.

 

[ClickClickBoom]

Narrow kerf chain is usually .325 pitch, but can be 0.043 or 0.050 gauge. It needs to be run on a narrow kerf bar of the correct gauge. It uses a standard drive sprocket. Oregon calls their narrow kerf chain 'MicroLite'.

http://www.oregonchain.com/pdf/misc/MicroLiteBroch.pdf

3/8" Low Profile chain needs a 3/8LP drive sprocket and nose sprocket in the bar. I learned from A.S. threads that it is not really interchangeable with 'regular' 3/8" pitch.

They are both good chain systems, but you have fewer choices in cutter/chain styles than when running standard 0.325 or 3/8" pitch chain. So the OP needs narrow kerf chain on that saw.

Philbert

As far as I can tell .325 chain comes in .050 or .058 mm, not .043 and .050. The stock chain is .325 x .050 with 66 drive links so I can use any chain with those same specifications.

specs:
Husqvarna H30-66 - Replacement .325 (66 Drive Link) Low Vibration Chain Loop (Fits Models 435, 440, 445)

The narrow kerf chains are a more efficient for a saw of this size, but that advantage would be more than offset with a regular kerf chisel chain.

Correct, or am I all confused again?