Best chain for a Husqvarna 435 & hackberry.

[Philbert]

There is no harm done if the OP uses a standard chain on his NK Bar. . . . Even the NK chain will work on a standard bar, but maybe not as fast.

I disagree Sagetown. One might get away with it for a short time, but I think that it will lead to wear (bar and tie straps), binding, or uneven cutting issues.

Philbert

"Always use a Micro-Lite™bar with a Micro-Lite™chain. Here’s why:
To help a Micro-Lite™chain cut its narrower kerf, Micro- Lite™bars are built slightly thinner than standard bars. If Micro-Lite™chain is run on a standard bar, there may be hang-ups during the cut. And if standard chain is run on
a Micro-Lite™bar, all the performance advantages of cutting a narrower kerf will be lost."

 

[ClickClickBoom]

I disagree Sagetown. One might get away with it for a short time, but I think that it will lead to wear (bar and tie straps), binding, or uneven cutting issues.

Philbert

"Always use a Micro-Lite™bar with a Micro-Lite™chain. Here’s why:
To help a Micro-Lite™chain cut its narrower kerf, Micro- Lite™bars are built slightly thinner than standard bars. If Micro-Lite™chain is run on a standard bar, there may be hang-ups during the cut. And if standard chain is run on
a Micro-Lite™bar, all the performance advantages of cutting a narrower kerf will be lost."

Philbert,

at the risk of me sounding like an idiot (it's possible, this is way more confusing than it needs to be).

The 435 uses a narrow Kerf Pixel bar:
Bailey's - Husqvarna 16" Narrow Kerf Pixel Chainsaw Bar

not a Micro lite which you have been referring to:
Bailey's - Husqvarna 16" Micro Lite Chainsaw Bar

With that said, it does say the the pixel bar is thinner than a standard bar.

I have seen references on this site (and on the web) of people using normal chisel chain in the 435 with good success (no chain model given). So, it would appear that it works fine with anecdotal evidence.

However, is there another bar that I should also purchase that would be better suited to the chisel / semi-chisel, and would also fit the saw?

 

[Sagetown]

Philbert ~ One might get away with it for a short time,

Yes; even though the B/C configuration ought to be adhered to especially with heavy usage. Most homeowners won't use their saws enough to do any harm to either bar or chain. In other words, cross swapping the B/C can be done, it just isn't kosher.

 

[ClickClickBoom]

Sorry my replies are showing up late, they all have to be moderated before they are posted.

Not sure how many posts I have to have before that goes away?


EDIT: looks like they're being auto-posted now. YIPEE

 

[Philbert]

at the risk of me sounding like an idiot (it's possible, this is way more confusing than it needs to be). The 435 uses a narrow Kerf Pixel bar: not a Micro lite which you have been referring to:

Same thing - just a different name. Again, Oregon makes Husqvarna's chain; they may make their bars too.

It can be confusing. STIHL, and Oregon, and Bailey's, and others use their own trade names for their products, which is why it helps to understand what they mean, or at least what you have.

You have a 66 drive link loop of 0.325 pitch, 0.050 gauge, narrow kerf chain. You can buy any brand of that you like. You can also look for specialty types of cutters (e.g. full chisel, or carbide, or ripping cutters) or tooth patterns (e.g. skip tooth, etc.) or non-low-kickback chain if you'd like, as long as they are a 66 drive link loop of 0.325 pitch, 0.050 gauge, narrow kerf chain.

My best guess is that, since this chain is intended for small to medium saws used by homeowners and light professional use, you will only find this chain in the semi-chisel, low-kickback format, but I could be wrong.

Philbert

 

[REJ2]

My Echo CS530 came from dealer with a NK bar, has the symbol that identifies it, and 33SL chain. The 33SL chain while being a safety chain is i believe a standard kerf chain. I've long since replaced the 33SL chain with Oregon 20LPX and its works fine. Granted its used mostly to limb with now, but when it was my only saw it did it all, fell, limb, and buck. Original bar with plenty of work left, chains get worked down to witness mark and never have had one let go, break. The consensus that i have read here is its ok to use regular kerf chain on an NK bar. Maybe something is lost with saws of less than 50cc's, i dont know.

 

[TreePointer]

"Always use a Micro-Lite™bar with a Micro-Lite™chain. Here’s why:
To help a Micro-Lite™chain cut its narrower kerf, Micro- Lite™bars are built slightly thinner than standard bars. If Micro-Lite™chain is run on a standard bar, there may be hang-ups during the cut. And if standard chain is run on
a Micro-Lite™bar, all the performance advantages of cutting a narrower kerf will be lost."

MY TRANSLATION:

If you have a .325 NK bar, then a .325 NK chain will cut the narrow kerf, which is the prime benefit of an NK bar.

If you have a .325 NK bar, then a .325 standard kerf chain will do just fine, but it will not cut a narrow kerf.

Just don't run NK chain on a standard kerf bar because the kerf cut by the chain teeth will not be wide enough for the bar to move smoothly through the cut.

My NE346XP came with an Husqvarna branded .325 .050 NK bar and 95VP chain. I've also used Stihl RSC and Oregon 20LPX (both standard kerf) on that bar without issue.

 

[TreePointer]

For comparison, the RSC and 20LPX seem to cut more aggressively than the 95VP, but the 95VP was smoother.

 

[ClickClickBoom]

Thanks for the help all, I ordered 2 Oregon 20LPX chains the other night, and i'll report back when I've had a chance to use them.

 

[Sagetown]

You're Welcome, CCB:
Ouch ! You just NEG. Rep'd me. That's twice in the same month. I must not be living right or something.

p.s. It wasn't a NEG (RED), but a Neutral (Grey). Only -2 reps. I'll survive.

 

[ClickClickBoom]

You're Welcome, CCB:
Ouch ! You just NEG. Rep'd me. That's twice in the same month. I must not be living right or something.

p.s. It wasn't a NEG (RED), but a Neutral (Grey). Only -2 reps. I'll survive.

Weird. Wonder if it's because I'm a new user or something? I chose positive rep.

 

[Sagetown]

Weird. Wonder if it's because I'm a new user or something? I chose positive rep.

Could be, I don't know how they rate this stuff.

 

[super3]

Weird. Wonder if it's because I'm a new user or something? I chose positive rep.

You need 50 posts for rep to be pos or neg. Till then neutral.

 

[Sagetown]

You need 50 posts for rep to be pos or neg. Till then neutral.

Thanks super3. Is that info readily available on AS ? My searching hasn't revealed anything.

Sage

 

[SawTroll]

Thanks super3. Is that info readily available on AS ? My searching hasn't revealed anything.

Sage

It has been posted lots of times, but I don't think the info is part of the "official" info on the site.....

 

[Sagetown]

It has been posted lots of times, but I don't think the info is part of the "official" info on the site.....

Kinda what I thought. General knowledge of the old and wise. The best means of info is from those who've been around awhile. An Old retireing Engineer told me that he'd forgotten more about his line of work than those coming up will ever learn. And after he left, they were definitely on a learning curve.:msp_ohmy::msp_w00t:

 

[Philbert]

Ran across some bar and chain info files today that I will post as new threads for reference. But part of them touched on this thread, so I am posting that part here - a cross reference listing narrow kerf chain by manufacturer.

It shows that they sell their Woodland Pro narrow kerf chain in a non-low-kickback form, which I did not think was available.

Full chart is on Bailey's website at this link:
Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's

Philbert

 

[ClickClickBoom]

I finally got some time to tackle some rounds with the new chain. They do seem to work quite a bit better than the factory chain. You can really feel the chain pull the saw through the wood instead of having to apply pressure.

It's cutting fast enough that I now have problems with the noodles clogging up the chain break. Need to stop every so often to pull them out of the saw.

The saw really is too small for as big a rounds as these are, but I'll make it through. A bigger bar/saw would really speed things up.

Thanks again for the advice.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

 

[Terry Syd]

Just a note on the Woodland Pro NK chain. I took a look at the new Oregon 95VPX chain and its bumper link and compared it to the long raker of the Woodland Pro. It appeared that the WP would have just as much anti-kickback as the VPX.

I ordered some Woodland Pro and then compared it on the bar as it went around the kickback area. IMO, the WP raker works as well as the bumper link on the VPX.

 

[komatsuvarna]

On a narrow kerf bar, you can run narrow kerf chain or regular kerf chain, as long as its .325 and .050.

Ive ran the LPX and the VP on my 346, and I like the VP better all around. The LPX may shine in softwoods and such, but only thing I got more out of the LPX was more sharpening. The 95VP will last longer between sharpenings, and that makes the overall life of the chain longer....and in hardwoods you cant ''feel'' any difference between them in speed.

Thats my findings anyways, so its probably not worth much.:msp_rolleyes: What works for one may not for the other.