Best topping saw?

[Wolf66]

I have been running the Echo 3400 top handle saws for many years now. Ever since they changed the design on the side cover and muffler cover, I have been unhappy with them. I picked up a 3000 just because it was the old style. But now these saws are in need of being replaced and I think I want to go with something diffrent. I know that the Stihl 020T is a great saw but its a little heavy and a tad bit pricey. I had a Stihl 019 and was not very impressed. I know that it is hard to beat the echo 3400 power to weight ratio at that price. What do you guys think would be close in comparison?

 

[rbtree]

Several mfr's have comparable saws, mostly light reed valve models: Efco, Solo, Tanaka, Redmax. Most are under $300. But the Echo is much more widely available, has a proven design, and it lasts.

However, it is rather underpowered as are all of the above saws, compared to the 200T or Husky 335, now replaced with the slightly larger and 2 oz heavier 338. The 335 Cali, available from Bailey's for about $375 on sale, til XMas, includes a second chain. It will cut circles around all the above saws. I had one for a month till I lost it Thursday. AARRGH..... It was a bit problematic, but was slated to go to Dozer Dan for modifications, where, with its 45 cc motor, would likely have come back with more power than a stock 026. The 335's have been notorious problem starters, especially with some hours on them. Hopefully the different design 338, with different intake boot, and carb primer bulb, will be a big improvement.

I'm counting on a screaming meanie when I get my PP 338 from Dan. UPS should deliver it Tuesday.

Whatever you get, at the very least, open up the muffler. The power gains wil be 15-25% from that alone. Lots of info on this board, just do a search or three.

 

[rbtree]

Hey nut gatherer,

Do the new 340's have a fully adjustable carb?

I finally managed to get my old Walkerized 335 problems solved---I hope. The fact that it was laid up was the only reason why I got the 335 Cali, which I just lost-forgot to take it off the back of the chipper when we left the job. I had ordered my 338PP two months ago, but it took Dan ages to get it to me....first there was a recall, then the saw arrived with a toasted jug....

Now maybe I'll file an ins claim...but I think I have $250 deductible.

The 3400's are sweet, but even modded are to slow for production removal work..at least for me.

 

[Sylvatica]

No prob's with my CS-340's, 'tho it's true they won't amaze anyone with their power.

And I recently picked up a new 200T (with a real 3 screw carb!). Love that saw, love the way it runs and it is still tight. Won't love it when something breaks, but for now...yee-haah!

 

[Sylvatica]

Oh yeah RB, mine have sunken screws, h&L, w/ limiter caps, on Walbro's.

Wouldn't have bought them with Zama's, just my opinion, not trying to start something by saying that, not that there is anything wrong with Zama.... :angel:

 

[Wolf66]

[I'm sorry but that is just a slang term that guy's around here use. I personaly do not perform crown reductions unless the tops are dead and that is the only way to make safe without removing the tree. I dont like the new side cover or the in bar tensioner. The first thing I did to the new 3400 was put the old chain adjuster back on. The new muffler cover broke the third time I sent it up the tree, its a little fragile. All the old parts fit onto the new model, but I am running out of part saws.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Re: Intenz bar

Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel
I do not like the Intenz bars myself, they are crap.

You've said this before. I've had a couple saws with the intenz bar and had no problem at all with them. If the little adjusting screw on a saw breaks (and they do), just get an intenz bar and abandon the crappy little screw.

Can you say what specifically you don't like?

 

[Wolf66]

Just to clear one thing up, I never said anything about the echo falling apart, just that the muffler cover broke easly on mine. I truly love echo products. I have a echo backpack blower, Two top handled saws and a 4400 that is truly awsome power to weight is hard to match. I do take good care of my saws, I blow them out every night after work and put a edge on them, but even a tad bt dirty, all my echo saws and blower start on the second pull. Always without exception. They do make a great product. Another thing I love about them is the fact that any parts on new 3400 or 3000 are interchangable. Don't like the new muffler cover, no problem, use one from a older saw, same with the bars, handles etc. They all interchange and thats great. I don't want to mislead anyone by starting this thread that I dont think highly of Echo , they make great saws at a afordable price.

 

[robedic]

335, 335 Cali & 338

Rbtree,

You're the only one I've heard of to own all three. I'd like to know which you like best. Which stands to gain most from mods? Do you think there will be a 338 Cali?

 

[Wolf66]

In case anyone is interested , I see that on ebay they are selling alot of echo 4400 chainsaws for $100-$150, seems like a good price for a great saw. I love mine, but I dont know how much they run new. Mine was a birthday gift from my mom. Thanks mom you picked out a great one!

 

[rbtree]

Re: 335, 335 Cali & 338

Originally posted by robedic
Rbtree,

You're the only one I've heard of to own all three. I'd like to know which you like best. Which stands to gain most from mods? Do you think there will be a 338 Cali?

Yes, Bailey's told me the new Cali will be a 338, by this fall or winter. Which sucks as the intake port cant be opened, according to Dan when he modded my 338. This is all EPA related.

Just today, I put a dual port muffler on my new 335 Cali, and it now outcuts the fully modded 338 by about 15% and has gobs of torque..which means it is 5-10% faster than an 200T. If and when I have it ported, with the current small ports and big jug, there will be a lot of room and ability for the builder to really open it up... not sure if the carb can be modded to handle the flow needed. Likely the saw, being 45 cc, could be made to smoke a stock 026 or 346. But I'm not sure if I need all that power....maybe I'll leave well enuf alone.

 

[tony marks]

if the intenze bar is the problem it sounds like they may have put the old tensioner back,so problem solved.
ive got the 3000,, it gets limited use
now.. but it does my wk fine.from most accounts ive read here the stihl 20 t would be my choice... if i was gonna spend a lotto time climbing ... id want the best available at the time and pay the exstra bucks.. i mean being realistic,,,u gonna spend a lot of time hanging there using this thing,, so id go for every little advantage i could get.. to me a good top handle needs to be lite,crank first pull after its been running,,then smooth power to get the job done with least time spent ... jmo .. this from a fello with shoulder problems ,soi mite consider ease of use more than some .. good luck.

 

[hlw49]

If you are refering to the latch breaking off that holds the muffler cover on I drill a hole in the saw case just under the cover where the latch broke off and fasten it on with a tie strap.

The 338 is not 45 cc 2.7 cu. in it is 39 cc. 2.4 cu. in.


The CS-340 is still the best bang for the buck. It won't cut with the Husky but it will out last it. You know I said that but we have several Husky's out that are 1999 models with no major problems.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel
1- I've never had an adjustment screw 'break'. How would one break an adjustment screw? It doesn't hold the saw together and doesn't need to be torqued. Do you 'break' carb adjustment screws also?

No, haven't broke carb screws, but I have broke bar adjuster screws. Jumping out of trees with a saw at my side does it. The saw is a bit longer than my leg, hanging off my belt. When I land, the saw tip hits the ground first.
Another thing that can do it is, "when abused and yanked on".

Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel

2- I can dial in my adjustment faster and better with the adjustment screw. The Intenz bar adjustment moves too far with too little of a turn. I don't need to move it an inch at a time, but rather 1/16 of an inch at a time.

So if you are going to do maintenance or replacing a derailed chain, you like to sit and turn a srew that only moves the bar a 16th of an inch each turn?
I used to sit and count the turns needed to take a chain off, so I'd know how many turns it needed to replace it. About ten full turns was good. Ten full turns, or tweny half turns, because that's all you can get fumbling on the side of the bar.

Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel

3- The bars are the basic Oregon cheapo homeowner bars, but are weaker and more prone to getting bent when abused and yanked on. For the cost of a cheapo Intenz bar I can get a better made and longer lasting Oregon Pro 91 bar. And yes, the Pro 91 is also available in the Intenz but it is $8 more. That's $8 every time you buy a bar instead of $3 for a replacement adjustment screw which will last the life of the saw (Except for Mike, he breaks them). The cheapo bars last me about 2 months before they are worn slap out. I get 6 months out of the Pro 91.

So it's not the longevity or function, it's the price!

A final note is you should not need to adjust your chain very often. If you do these 1/16" adjustments often, you need to run a sharper chain, this will reduce the chain adjusting. Genrally I don't adjust my chain tension unless I'm doing maintenance (or it gets loose from running dull).

 

[JonnyHart]

I currently climb with an Echo cs300 tophandled saw, I bought it with my own cash because the boss has a bunch o tail handled good saws. My saw s pretty weak, it always starts real easy, but ya touch it to a peice of wood, and it bogs down, and almost stalls. One guy I help out sometimes has a cs340 with a 16" bar, and it runs like a champ, his is a tailhandled, but I love a tophand when climbing. Know what? You can get both of those saws at Home Depot. You can also get a Husky 141, and Husky 55 rancher at Sears. (Just for the sake of conversation.)

 

[MasterBlaster]

Best 'topping' saw?

She brings a tear to my eye...

BUT! A 16" bar!

 

[JonnyHart]

Oh yeah, that chain tensioning on the bar, Intenze right? Its garbage. I got it on my cs300 i was just bragging about
A cool brainstorm maybe, but not too practical. I was taught to hold up the bar at the tip when tightening the bar nuts. I'm not exactly sure why. You guys do this? N E way, it always seems like the chain on my echo is too tight or too loose. I used a 338xpt before, and its got balls compared to my echo.

 

[rbtree]

hlw,

Maybe I rambled a bit there, but i was referring to my 45 cc 335 Cali, with its new dual port muffler, ....and blows my PP 338 out of the water. The modded 338, which I have $560 in, wouldn't hold a candle to my old Walkerized 335, which cost $120 to mod....this was not Dan fault, the 338 just wont take to mods.

 

[MasterBlaster]

ALLWAYS hold it by the tip.

 

[rbtree]

Originally posted by MasterBlaster
ALLWAYS hold it by the tip.

when it's making noise?