I've seen on Aliexpress that a complete engine for the Stihl MS180 sells for about $27, which bring it back to my first question - if any member of the forum ever tried it? you've mentioned that you have several saw of this model in your barn, so I guess that you use them more intensively, as I wrote - I only use it every once in a while, so maybe it's worth to fix.
Replacement engine for Stihl MS180
- Thread starter Koper
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I didn't took it apart yet, so I couldn't try to turn the flywheel, but even without the spark plug - it doesn't move by pulling the cord starter.
Michael E
ArboristSite Member
Which could still be simply a broken starter assembly.
LarJea
ArboristSite Lurker
I noticed a seller on ebay also had a complete 180 engine with crank and free shipping from the USA with 2 year warranty for $32.
I've seen (if I'm not mistaking) that there are two versions of the MS180 engine, one with 8 mm pin and the newer version with 10 mm pin. are the two versions interchangeable? I guess that mine chainsaw is the older version, so if I'll have to purchase a new engine and it will be of the new version - will it still fit? and if you can enlighten my eyes on which pin we are talking about?
Each takes their on crankshaft.
Sorry, could you elaborate?
The 8mm bearing will only fit the end of the crankshaft for that size and the same for the 10mm bearing. This is where the piston attaches on to the crankshaft. Check pistons for those and it will say either 8 mm or 10 mm rod for the piston. This is a 10mm and will only use a 10mm piston. On the very tip end is the 10mm where the piston goes. You can swap the crankshafts and use either.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/322378703046?_skw=10mm+180+crankshaft&itmmeta=01JHZGBG43W5PVY4N7PBJ7WFA8&hash=item4b0f44a0c6:g
H0AAOSwsA5a1WOf&itmprp=enc:AQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx+KZ9MfhVJKkiwnkxopxuNaFRJ--5m0TTpbpE7yp8sZyew5rhurF+RX06O937anehyq/Y9nI5RKko9+FirMZx/c58Tv87CqsEudpHaAXYHELfqMbnv/O66MRHT96Jr/fLKdzL1peU3P06m94hbqzFIrsBeMnVqwb2Mh6214eR1YDha6P/rVvXeMHW117cn8tVAlz7ropUsKxiIk2mx/c54H9yNNshsn4DJet9W0nX0YmUBFSvbwE+Yt4lf/N1JWQ03d20eYD7lSo=|tkp:Bk9SR6aCrvCPZQ
Michael E
ArboristSite Member
The "pin" goes through the piston, there are holes on both sides to slide it through. In the middle, the pin goes through the needle bearing of the connecting rod (on the left side of the photo). The connecting rod is fixed to the crankshaft (it's not individually replaceable). The diameter of the pin determines the kind of piston and the matching connecting rod, and thereby the connected crankshaft.
Concerning your question: If you only want to replace the piston, you have to make sure you buy one for the correct pin size. If you want to replace the complete engine, it doesn't matter. The ends of the crankshafts are identical, everything will bolt right on.
Concerning your question: If you only want to replace the piston, you have to make sure you buy one for the correct pin size. If you want to replace the complete engine, it doesn't matter. The ends of the crankshafts are identical, everything will bolt right on.
Thank you and thanks to jitrent for the comprehensive reply. if I get it right, it is what is called "gudgeon pin" a term that I know from vehicle engines.
Michael E
ArboristSite Member
Had to google it - yes.
The American English word for that part is "wrist pin" but some of us would be able to understand gudgeon pin.
Mark
Mark
Thanx, Always learning something new.
Update - I took today the chainsaw to a local Stihl dealer. he did just what Michael E suggested, he removed the left side cover, the one with the starter and he tried to turn the flywheel by hand. his conclusion was that the the engine is stuck and further info can be achieved only after dismantling the engine. there was no sense to leave it to him to do it, he was fair enough to say that it's not worth it because it will cost not far from a new chainsaw. so, my only option is to do it myself, I will take it apart and try to assess the damage (with your help - I hope) and try to fix it.
Michael E
ArboristSite Member
Good, you're going steps in the right direction. Next is the clutch side
Hi, the saga goes on. I've ordered from Aliexpress a complete engine. received it today. pictures are attached for your impression. now I will take the old engine out and try to install the new one in. it came without a key on the starter shaft. I hope that you can tell me the specs of the key, so that I'll be enable to buy a new one, if not, I'll use the old one. btw - any of you people has the workshop manual of the Stihl MS180?
Attachments
Ask here for a parts and workshop manual.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/the-beg-for-manuals-thread.68615/
Pretty sure the key is cast into the flywheel on those. All it's there for is to line up the flywheel for timing. It doesn't hold the flywheel in position. The taper of the shaft and the flywheel bore is what retains the flywheel from moving.
As a side note, I've used a few of those no name engines for people already. Unfortunately, it's about the only way to make one worth fixing vs buying a new saw. They are truly the definition of "throw away."
As a side note, I've used a few of those no name engines for people already. Unfortunately, it's about the only way to make one worth fixing vs buying a new saw. They are truly the definition of "throw away."
I have used quite a few Chinese engines on burnt up 029's and MS290's. Top ends on 026's, 036's, etc. A few Chinese crank shafts
Even a special ported Cross on a MS660 that lasted about a week and hung a ring.
So, make sure there are no sharp edges on the ports and transfers. If the circlips have tabs clip them off, or better yet throw them away and use OEM.
Port timing and subsequently power is like a box of chocolates.
Not something you want to try and make a living with. But, something you can use for odd jobs , or a loaner, or something you can leave in the back of your truck and not worry much whether somebody steals it.
Even a special ported Cross on a MS660 that lasted about a week and hung a ring.
So, make sure there are no sharp edges on the ports and transfers. If the circlips have tabs clip them off, or better yet throw them away and use OEM.
Port timing and subsequently power is like a box of chocolates.
Not something you want to try and make a living with. But, something you can use for odd jobs , or a loaner, or something you can leave in the back of your truck and not worry much whether somebody steals it.
