Bore cut felling?

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I'll let the others handle the bore cutting issue , I know what works for me and I can't see myself spending 5 days on a 2 day lot .
I think Yukonsawman might have to come to the Maritimes to get a better selection of beer .
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This one make all others that I have had on the weak side .
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Just a few of the 239+ beers that we have in our stores .


:cheers:

I don't know Duncan, but between you and Ross, somebodies gonna end up with a wicked hangover. Beer and saws and trees always seem to get together. What's up with that? I'm just sippin on Bud right now. Am I missin' out on anything? Lol
Gypo
 
I don't know Duncan, but between you and Ross, somebodies gonna end up with a wicked hangover. Beer and saws and trees always seem to get together. What's up with that? I'm just sippin on Bud right now. Am I missin' out on anything? Lol
Gypo

Ill take a bud too. I bet that extra strong beer probably bout like Milwaukee's beast! LOL
 
Strong beer = 211, Hurricane, old english, country club(BARF), colt 45, any ice beer. Its all nasty as hell....

Lots if the folks my age love that juice stuff and the other junk I cant remember. its like 12%. I asked them, "have yall ever considered wine?" Its the same damn thing just a hell of alot more natural, plus it comes in big enough quantities so you dont have to get but a few bottles to achieve the desired affect. there is somthing about a wine buzz that you cant get from any other beverage. It kills my heartburn though..

Il stick to my PBR...
 
I don't know Duncan, but between you and Ross, somebodies gonna end up with a wicked hangover. Beer and saws and trees always seem to get together. What's up with that? I'm just sippin on Bud right now. Am I missin' out on anything? Lol
Gypo

Well Gypo I only drink from that batch of home brew when I feel like having one. It was the second brew I ever made and will not follow the recipe I used again it is just far too nasty and I hate the stout type flavour it has. If I want something strong I would rather a double JD's.
 
Some of the guys who really know what the hell they are talking about on this site should have a special symbol or something next to their username for newbs or guys who just don't know. Theres about a dozen or so that hang out in this forum regularly that I would designate for that insignia.

Maybe this one? :bang:
 
Any body got a video or good pictures of a bore cut. Ive read alot and still dont understand part of it. Do you drive the wedge in both sides of the bore cut or in the back cut? Do you make the face cut before the bore cut? I probably wont ever need it just cuttin firewood, but id like to know more about it anyways.
I'm just a weekend warrior here, but what the heck. There's three different situations I use the bore cut in. A heavy leaner to avoid barberchairing, a small tree I want to direct away from the lean and it's not big enough for a wedge in the back cut, which is were I put a wedge in the bore cut, and cutting a stump off flush. Once I get the bore cut through it's easy to work the saw back and forth and if one side is dirty you can hit that on the way out.
I'll mention again practicing it when you are bucking up logs.
 
There are a few East Coast loggers on this forum that have adopted a lot of West Coast technique. . . Why? Because it works, it's safe, and it's better. It helps them produce, so they can pay their bills.

:agree2: I happen to be one of them. I think bore cuts take waaaaaay to long but i use them when the situation calls for it
 
I get the feeling that the folks bashing the bore cut have probably never tried it or don't know what they are talking about.

Where do these people come from?

Hah hah, A four foot Redwood is a sprout, not a tree!!!

I was going to add more pith to the stem, but it's been well covered.
 
A Mid Westerner's approach

I'd like to add that though I'm not actually an East Coaster, I am a Mid-Westerner, cutting mostly Eastern hardwoods. Most of my cutting technique has been adopted from my West Coast brethren. Unlike some of the local fallers here, I use a 32" bar, and the "majority" of the trees I drop are cut with a Humbolt, usually making just three cuts. This technique has provided me with a safe way of getting the butt of the tree on the ground, and preventing it from kicking back at me, and in many instances, saving out the wood in a timely and efficient manner. I do occasionally use a bore cut in combination with a Humbolt notch on trees that have heavy head lean, but that is about the only time. I do understand that there are many variables that are an inevitable part of timber falling which call for procedural changes; however, I cant imagine bore cutting a tree, then wedging on each side of the bore cut. What exactly would be the purpose of wedging the sides????:confused: :monkey: :cheers:
 
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Joesawyer explained it pretty good... You can cut in the sides like a "T", or a "triangle", depending on how much holding wood you need. For a severe lean I will use a "triangle" since there will be more holding wood. Then bring the saw up in RPM, and rip like a mutha through the back of the "T", or "triangle".

This was taught to me by a very experience faller from Oregon... also Gerry Beranek had showed the 2 differences to me some time ago.

Here is a diagram... hope it explains it... I even used Powerpoint... now my brain hurts...

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Gary
Those diagrams look like the ones from my highschool forestry class back in1970 something
 
Joesawyer explained it pretty good... You can cut in the sides like a "T", or a "triangle", depending on how much holding wood you need. For a severe lean I will use a "triangle" since there will be more holding wood. Then bring the saw up in RPM, and rip like a mutha through the back of the "T", or "triangle".

This was taught to me by a very experience faller from Oregon... also Gerry Beranek had showed the 2 differences to me some time ago.

Here is a diagram... hope it explains it... I even used Powerpoint... now my brain hurts...

Gary

Nobody told me those are west coast techniques. Hell I have been using the "triangle" cut for years on large light leaners, hardwoods I might add, and it works great.
Thanks Gary from now on I will be calling it the Coos Bay, that way I can confuse all my eastern tree cutting friends and it sounds a hell of alot cooler than the "triangle" cut. lol


Ps. I also borecut, but mostly on hard leaners, or I will bore in the face of trees that like to pull fiber.
 
Nobody told me those are west coast techniques. Hell I have been using the "triangle" cut for years on large light leaners, hardwoods I might add, and it works great.
Thanks Gary from now on I will be calling it the Coos Bay, that way I can confuse all my eastern tree cutting friends and it sounds a hell of alot cooler than the "triangle" cut. lol


Ps. I also borecut, but mostly on hard leaners, or I will bore in the face of trees that like to pull fiber.



Can you help me understand the underlined part of your text? how are hardwoods light?
 
Can you help me understand the underlined part of your text? how are hardwoods light?

Hey kid, Youve done had to much of that PBR. lol Na im just ####tin ya. I think by light leaners that was hard woods He means hard wood trees that have just a little lean to them, instead of a heavy lean.:biggrinbounce2:
 
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