Bore cut felling?

[Gypo Logger]

I always slap a "safety" wedge in when possible, just in case, and even then, snags can offer big surprises. Eyes up, situational awareness at all times! There is no "One" way to drop a tree. Every trick in the book is in the book because it worked in some situation. More tricks in your bag = handling more and different situations. Example: I've never dropped anything bigger than 32". First time I do, I'll for sure size it up differently than something 18", because everything will be slower, heavier, and more final. Likewise, a 6" tree is likely to be whippy and active. That's its own kind of dangerous. Plus, there's no room for a wedge on a tree that small. I don't like to pig's ear anything bigger than about 4" on the butt.

Sometimes you can wedge over a small tree by doing the backcut first about 3/4 after getting in the wedge as soon as possible, then make the undercut.
Trees under 6" are best stump jumped in most situations.
Gypo

 

[056kid]

Lets see your 385 stump jumpin vid G.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Lets see your 385 stump jumpin vid G.

I've got a few of them on AS, but that was when I was Gypo Logger.
I'll see what I can find. BRB
Gypo

 

[Turkeyslayer]

I always slap a "safety" wedge in when possible, just in case, and even then, snags can offer big surprises. Eyes up, situational awareness at all times! There is no "One" way to drop a tree. Every trick in the book is in the book because it worked in some situation. More tricks in your bag = handling more and different situations. Example: I've never dropped anything bigger than 32". First time I do, I'll for sure size it up differently than something 18", because everything will be slower, heavier, and more final. Likewise, a 6" tree is likely to be whippy and active. That's its own kind of dangerous. Plus, there's no room for a wedge on a tree that small. I don't like to pig's ear anything bigger than about 4" on the butt.

For me I cut alot of cull trees. I really dislike the little trees as they dont have enough weight to push through the canopy, making for many hung up trees. Where if you have a nice 20"+ tree it will most times have the weight to make it push/roll its way to the ground.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Lets see your 385 stump jumpin vid G.

Here it is! Lol

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=14148&highlight=stump+jumping

 

[wvlogger]

they dont have enough weight to push through the canopy, making for many hung up trees. Where if you have a nice 20"+ tree it will most times have the weight to make it push/roll its way to the ground.

do you all have a lot of this on the 2nd and 3rd growth tree farms?

 

[056kid]

Here it is! Lol

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=14148&highlight=stump+jumping

there it is haha!!

 

[GASoline71]

John... my favorite is "If I were king of the forrrrrrreeeeeeest!!!"

Gary

 

[Gypo Logger]

John... my favorite is "If I were king of the forrrrrrreeeeeeest!!!"

Gary

Gary, you just like watching me make an idiot out myself! Lol
Gypo

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[Turkeyslayer]

do you all have a lot of this on the 2nd and 3rd growth tree farms?

Alot of the cutting I do is in hardwood woodlots that have not been harvested in 50+ years. The basal areas are relatively high 30+ m2/ha with the idea being 20 m2/ha. Under these conditions I get alot of crowded, tall 60'+ skinny 6-12" hardwoods to cull, leaving most of the larger trees for future harvest. Makes for alot of hung up trees.

 

[wvlogger]

Alot of the cutting I do is in hardwood woodlots that have not been harvested in 50+ years. The basal areas are relatively high 30+ m2/ha with the idea being 20 m2/ha. Under these conditions I get alot of crowded, tall 60'+ skinny 6-12" hardwoods to cull, leaving most of the larger trees for future harvest. Makes for alot of hung up trees.

sounds about right so you do bassically a thinning

 

[joesawer]

Feel the kerf tightening? Are you talking about felling or bucking? As an example yesterday I was bucking up a 3 1/2' redwood about 50' up from the stump where it was about 38" in diameter. The log was laying on a slope and was over a road so the kerf was closing. I reamed the cut constantly ( some guys here call it see-sawing). This kept the kerf open till the log dropped away.

If you are talking about feeling the kerf close while falling then you are beyond me. If my backcut is closing (in my little world) then the tree is sitting back and no amount of reaming will cause it to open up. In fact it will cause the tree to sit back even further. Unless the tree is a head leaner my backcuts always get wedges. Always. I once had a 4' dbh snag (on the side of a road) get sky bound and I ran out of wedges and had to cut up branches. Now I carry 2 or 4 wedges and have even more in the truck.

In the Southeastern states you can not even buy a wedge unless you mail order it.
There is a cutting technique used on a lot of trees that involves cutting the first cut (what you would call the gunning cut) into the tree until it starts to move forward and drag on the chain.
There is a reason these guys use short bars!
Then they cut a "chip" out and then cut the holding wood. By having a tiny face and a massive deep dutchman it is possible to swing the tree considerably before it moves forward very much.
This is more of an art than a repeatable science. It works best on young resilient trees. They have no concept of the word brashy. Everything holds to the stump great. There are a lot of crushed saws and trees gone astray using this method.
But there are life long (small) timber fallers who use no other way.

 

[056kid]

Alot of the cutting I do is in hardwood woodlots that have not been harvested in 50+ years. The basal areas are relatively high 30+ m2/ha with the idea being 20 m2/ha. Under these conditions I get alot of crowded, tall 60'+ skinny 6-12" hardwoods to cull, leaving most of the larger trees for future harvest. Makes for alot of hung up trees.

How does a GOL approach ewlp that situation?

you should try a real narrow face so the hinge breaks as soon as the tree commits and can spin and roll off other trees. thats what I like to do, usually a narrow face with a "shelf" in it that pops the hinge and lets gravity do its thing..

 

[forestryworks]

By "chill" do you mean that when you post nonsense we should just all ignore it?
Sorry, lady, but things don't work that way. And I don't agree to a damn thing.

You're a state forester and to a lot of people, misguided though they may be, that means you probably know what you're talking about. They'll think that if you say something is good, bad, or indifferent it must be the absolute truth because you're a forester. You do yourself, and everyone else who's foolish enough to believe that you're an expert, a grave disservice with that kind of attitude.

You say you "cut timber for many years"....most fallers I know have better sense than to say that any one method is the safest. Most fallers I know, while being proud of what they do, have enough wisdom, experience and humility to realize that every tree is different and there isn't any one way that works every time.

So...you "chill", lady...and leave us to do what we do best.

Well said, sir.

 

[2dogs]

In the Southeastern states you can not even buy a wedge unless you mail order it.
There is a cutting technique used on a lot of trees that involves cutting the first cut (what you would call the gunning cut) into the tree until it starts to move forward and drag on the chain.
There is a reason these guys use short bars!
Then they cut a "chip" out and then cut the holding wood. By having a tiny face and a massive deep dutchman it is possible to swing the tree considerably before it moves forward very much.
This is more of an art than a repeatable science. It works best on young resilient trees. They have no concept of the word brashy. Everything holds to the stump great. There are a lot of crushed saws and trees gone astray using this method.
But there are life long (small) timber fallers who use no other way.

Sounds like you are describing a kerf face. That is a legitimate cut in certain circumstances. I cut a thousand or more small willows during a 4 to 6 week thinning job along the local river and most are just cut with no face at all. I use an angle cut to drop the trunk straight down near my feet. Others get a kerf face and back cut, still other get a conventional or a Humboldt face. A kerf face is another tool for the tool box.

 

[2dogs]

.

I screwed up while posting so the quoted original post is mine. Don't blame Bitzer if you disagree. LOL

 

[joesawer]

Sounds like you are describing a kerf face. That is a legitimate cut in certain circumstances. I cut a thousand or more small willows during a 4 to 6 week thinning job along the local river and most are just cut with no face at all. I use an angle cut to drop the trunk straight down near my feet. Others get a kerf face and back cut, still other get a conventional or a Humboldt face. A kerf face is another tool for the tool box.

Similar to a kerf face but with a small undercut they call a chip and it can be 2/3 or even 3/4 of the way through a 24" tree. They often cut until it starts to set down on the saw.

 

[hammerlogging]

056, joesawyer speaks of the famed side band swarp notch!

 

[madhatte]

I really dislike the little trees as they dont have enough weight to push through the canopy, making for many hung up trees. Where if you have a nice 20"+ tree it will most times have the weight to make it push/roll its way to the ground.

Good point. I do carry a peavey in the truck to help with these situations, though it has its limitations too.

 

[Turkeyslayer]

Peavey's help as well as finding a 10-12' long branch with a ""Y at the top to push and/or apply leverage higher up on the snagged tree.