LumberJeff
ArboristSite Lurker
on a 25 inch tree i make the notch first, then the bore (2" elevated 1" bypass) back so only a little of the back cut remains. drive felling wedges in as close to the backcut as possible. then let it fly!!
Bore cut felling?
- Thread starter komatsuvarna
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how bout face, back cut, wedge, fly?
instead of face, bore, bore again, hit wedges into the kirf of a tre that cannot lift, then fly..
I just dont get it..
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
The wedges driven into the back-cut of the bore, is to hinder sit-back. . . So you aren't trying to achieve lift at that point, of course until the trigger (strap) is tripped.
That procedure is good if you are boring a tree with little to no head lean, as the tree may indeed close the kerf and try and sit back once the trigger is cut, but doesn't do much on a tree with any amount of head lean. . . If you're gunning toward the lean, it'll fall, wedge or no.
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
If this is for every tree you fall... I don't understand why you do that. It's not "safer"... just 2 cut the face, and a backcut... EZPZ.
Gary
No ####, these guys are talking about pounding wedges into trees that have possible head lean. They dont wanna get their saws stuck when they pop their back strap so they put a wedge in a tree that might not need one. Its like tree cutting for morons or somthing. a normal back cut on a questionable tree can and will tell you if the trees gonna sit or commit, look at your kirf is it closing or opening? look at the tree is it going one way or the other. If you are really worried, slap a limp wedge in the back and see if it stiffens up, if it moves up just a millimeter, THEN, I REPEATE, THEN use alot of energy and pound some wedges
...
the GOL system completely disregaurds the old as can be prides of a timber faller. part of being good at falling timber is having the ability judge the way a tree wants to fall, to have the ability to finagle trees with your saw and a keen eye. To get maximum pay back from minimal exertion. NO SIR not with the GOL! With the wedged kirf & back strap you are basicly saying. "#### i dont have an idea on where that tree wants to go so im gonna cut and cut and bang and cut and bang and cut, the whole time Im not gonna get ANY feedback from the tree. I treat every tree as if it where a head back side leaner that could go ANY direction."
Cmon GOL guys, learn how to cut a tree with some panache, with some style. Tell people, "im gonna swing that ##### clear over there" (people) NO, that cant be done! and do it, cause it CAN be done.
Aaaah, I could go on and on but you Game of lotto logging fellas dont want to hear it....
Triangle Cut
I was taught how to do the triangle cut by my grandpa. He started logging with misery whips and that is where he learned that technique. Since a boring cut wasn't and option back then this is what loggers came up with to deal with a heavy leaner.
I was taught how to do the triangle cut by my grandpa. He started logging with misery whips and that is where he learned that technique. Since a boring cut wasn't and option back then this is what loggers came up with to deal with a heavy leaner.
secondscene
ArboristSite Lurker
I have taken the GOL, while I agree that it not required in every situation, it is a most often a safer method for non-production cutters(aka homeowners).
The two safety features I like with the bore are safely cutting extreme lean and the ability to stop if a something wanders into my work area.
I do agree that hammering wedges into a kerf cut with the backstrap is a waste of effort at times, especially if there is front lean, some people are very paranoid of that stuck saw.
That swinging dutchman is so tricky to learn, been working on it, any good pointers anyone might have?
The two safety features I like with the bore are safely cutting extreme lean and the ability to stop if a something wanders into my work area.
I do agree that hammering wedges into a kerf cut with the backstrap is a waste of effort at times, especially if there is front lean, some people are very paranoid of that stuck saw.
That swinging dutchman is so tricky to learn, been working on it, any good pointers anyone might have?
:agree2:
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Get your face in first, the direction you want it to go, then re-gun back to where the tree would naturally go. Make sure your re-gun makes a clean angle from high side of the tree to the low side, meaning don't just cut more on one side while leaving the same amount in the middle. Its gotta be a radius from the side your swinging it to back to the side swinging from.
Otherwise Gun back to where the tree would want to fall, but put the undercut in the way you would want it to fall, leaving a dutch on the swing from side.
I would experiment on small trees until you get the hang of it. Watch the tree as it falls and analyze your stump. Take pride in your stumps and knowing what happened.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
Sorry mang... but that statement could not be further from the truth. It is NOT safer for Joe Homeowner.
Gary
secondscene
ArboristSite Lurker
The question I have is why not? There is a chance of kickback on the bore cut, again this is assuming(which of course makes an ass out of me)that the homeowner has some experience. Just trying to understand reasons, I suppose.
Bitzer, thanks for the info, I have been able to get the tree to swing, but what happens is the tree does not swing quickly enough before it's on the ground. From the stumps it appears that I am perhaps not getting the undercut deep enough past the hinge, on swing side of course.
Bitzer, thanks for the info, I have been able to get the tree to swing, but what happens is the tree does not swing quickly enough before it's on the ground. From the stumps it appears that I am perhaps not getting the undercut deep enough past the hinge, on swing side of course.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
I never liked dutchmans, intentional or otherwise, however, I have made triangular hingewood to help commit a tree if I was too lazy to get a wedge.
If a tree sets back on the saw it rarely if ever falls backwards unless some how the hinge was compromised.
Should this happen without equipment, it's a simple matter to remove the powerhead and refall the tree in it's commited direction.
Gypo
If a tree sets back on the saw it rarely if ever falls backwards unless some how the hinge was compromised.
Should this happen without equipment, it's a simple matter to remove the powerhead and refall the tree in it's commited direction.
Gypo
Bill
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Yes, you're right. All these wonderful things and more happen to even the most accomplished fallers.
Most fallers usually have a backup saw, another faller or an equipment operator nearby.
The most pinched I ever was was when I was helping a faller fall 5 20" spruce parralel to a road we were widening.
Anyway, I had to fall all five at the same time, got my saw pinched then I got his saw pinched! Lol
After taking off the powerheads I hailed for the guy on the hoe and told him to knock them off the stump crown first in a domino effect.
The news was on the radio for everyone to hear about it on the construction crew.
It didn't hurt my pride one bit! Lol
Gypo
ross_scott
ArboristSite Guru
That reminds me of something that happened to me back in 2005 I got two saws jammed in the same tree due to my helper not holding the strain on the felling rope like I told him to do I did get the bars out eventually but had a bastard of a job doing it
2Dogs, I was talking about felling. instead of keeping yourself in the dark with the boring and the wedges and the back strap, you can get feedback from the tree in a normal back cyt with a wedge hanging in the kirf, you see that it might close up cause the wedge is starting to stand level so you beat that bugger alittle to open up the kirf and commit the tree.....
I always slap a "safety" wedge in when possible, just in case, and even then, snags can offer big surprises. Eyes up, situational awareness at all times! There is no "One" way to drop a tree. Every trick in the book is in the book because it worked in some situation. More tricks in your bag = handling more and different situations. Example: I've never dropped anything bigger than 32". First time I do, I'll for sure size it up differently than something 18", because everything will be slower, heavier, and more final. Likewise, a 6" tree is likely to be whippy and active. That's its own kind of dangerous. Plus, there's no room for a wedge on a tree that small. I don't like to pig's ear anything bigger than about 4" on the butt.
Gotcha. If you would have said you already had a wedge in there I would not have reacted so. LOL
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