Bore cut kickback
- Thread starter Wismer
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sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm sorry, I'm sorry!!!!!:monkey:
GASoline71
Mr. Nice Guy
S'aiight!
Gary
Gary
Bermie
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, had a bit of kickback, only in super hard wood, with my 3/8 non safety chain, really grippy fibres, and just not set up right. A bit scary when it happens but as long as you are positioned correctly you'll get away with it!
'Introducing' the saw into the bore is the key, chain speed up, start with bottom of bar and gradually roll around until you are pushing in with the tip. Always keep a mental picture in your head of what and where the bar is inside the cut, keep pressure on the bottom tip of the bar until the saw is deep in the bore before starting any serious pressure on the top of the chain. It will want to push back but this is where a good grip and stance will keep things under control.
Again, hard to explain with words...
'Introducing' the saw into the bore is the key, chain speed up, start with bottom of bar and gradually roll around until you are pushing in with the tip. Always keep a mental picture in your head of what and where the bar is inside the cut, keep pressure on the bottom tip of the bar until the saw is deep in the bore before starting any serious pressure on the top of the chain. It will want to push back but this is where a good grip and stance will keep things under control.
Again, hard to explain with words...
This is a good thread. I cut only a few trees a year and am not familiar at all with bore cuts, I must say.
so all tips to overcome the beginner's fear is quite appreciated.
thanks
I have used it enough to be familiar with it, but I am definatly by no means a pro, everyone can always learn something. I like it because it allows me to set my hinge.... and then drop the tree
my tip for you would be practise practise practise, and don't use it in a tight area or for a back leaner until you have worked most of the kinks out.
It really gets fun when the tree is bigger than your bar is long and u have to bore through each side and have it intersect in the middle. Not much room for error.
lync
ArboristSite Operative
Anybody else bore cut large timber when its down on the ground. Leave a small strap on top and as you cut it will hold the kerf open so that the bar doesn't get pinched at the bottom of the cut. then come back up and just touch the strap to finish the cut. No wedges necessary.
Corey
Corey
stihl 440
Addicted to ArboristSite
hey!
Hey, I thaught I invented that! Jeezzzzz, I was going to patent it too!LOL Yup, I use that technique alot. Thaught I invented it, guess not!LOLOLOLOL:biggrinbounce2: :chainsawguy: :hmm3grin2orange:
Hey, I thaught I invented that! Jeezzzzz, I was going to patent it too!LOL Yup, I use that technique alot. Thaught I invented it, guess not!LOLOLOLOL:biggrinbounce2: :chainsawguy: :hmm3grin2orange:
Bout the only time I bore cut is bucking rarely use it for falling.
MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
Most of my cutting have been whit 13" and 15" bar's, and bore cuts is a part of the game whit short bars, and after I was familiar with the technique (many years ago) it have been used allot.And the technique for a good bore cut is well explain here in this thread.
With bars from 14" to 41" rarely use that method. 044 28"bar my standard saw or my66 with 32" makes life simple and they are great limbing saws.
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
Wait till ya hit imbedded wire you will be singing a new tune! I have done it
but in over twenty years have not found it a useful tool and
no matter what everyone thinks kickback is certain if continued
use of this technique is employed. Wire inside a tree or a nail
and one help of a kickback can occur. This is why there is so
chainsaw injury's in profession relating to kickback.
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Bore cuts are a lot smoother with a chain that has had the rakers taken down with a good individual tooth guage (file o plate) than one that has been eyeballed or angle grindered
down.
down.
Sprig
Addicted to ArboristSite
Though I haven't used that method it makes good sense to me. As some know I have some big wood to cut up (that is cold decked in piles) and I think this may be a good time to practice here and there (will post pics in ms270 thread this week) as I am not at all comfortable with bore cuts per se and haven't used them in anything tricky (ie. standing leaning). As I learned the hard way many years ago (and bear the scar) making darned sure where your body is in relation to the saw is something that cannot be stressed enough. But this would apply to any cut for that matter, stay out of the potential k/b zone whether you are falling, bucking, w-h-y, always anticipate the worst and prepare and protect your body for/from it.
This is a very good and informative thread and has taught me enough to put some good sense into using this technique should I have to, and, as Andy said, its nice to add some tools to the arsenal so you have choices should the need arise.
Thanks guys!
Serge
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
My rant
Yeah............. Bore cutting is so much safer that rookies should be taught to do it that way. They are told to use a technique that every saw manufacture plainly and repeatedly says not to use. Why do they say not to contact the tip of the bar? Because they don't want to be responsible for you when kick back happens. Who ever all these over paid under qualified "experts" are who are advocating bore cutting should consider the consequences of having rookies bore cutting trees.
The way to start a bore cut has been well described already.
WRAP YOUR LEFT THUMB AROUND THE HANDLE BAR. I constantly see people who should know better with their thumb above the handle bar. This could save your life. If the saw stays in your hand when it kicks back you chances of avoiding injury are much better.
My personal experience with this is a tree service company saw that had been rev rev bang the brake on so much that when it did kick back with me the inertia handle activated but the brake band broke. Fortunately my thumb was around the handle bar and the saw stayed in both hands. When my left elbow completely bent towards me, my body was pushed back and the wide open throttle saw, cut a kerf in the bill of my hard hat instead of my forehead.
After you start a bore cut and you feel the saw chattering in the cut it is kick back but it is contained inside the the wood by the wood above the bar. This is a very powerful force even though it might feel mild. I have had it break tie straps on the chain. When the chattering starts it can often be stopped by rotating the saw on its axis. Give the handle bar a shake left and right as if you where checking the play in a steering wheel.
I am 240 lbs and don't have a soft or weak spot on me, and kick back from a little saw scares the crap out of me.
Yeah............. Bore cutting is so much safer that rookies should be taught to do it that way. They are told to use a technique that every saw manufacture plainly and repeatedly says not to use. Why do they say not to contact the tip of the bar? Because they don't want to be responsible for you when kick back happens. Who ever all these over paid under qualified "experts" are who are advocating bore cutting should consider the consequences of having rookies bore cutting trees.
The way to start a bore cut has been well described already.
WRAP YOUR LEFT THUMB AROUND THE HANDLE BAR. I constantly see people who should know better with their thumb above the handle bar. This could save your life. If the saw stays in your hand when it kicks back you chances of avoiding injury are much better.
My personal experience with this is a tree service company saw that had been rev rev bang the brake on so much that when it did kick back with me the inertia handle activated but the brake band broke. Fortunately my thumb was around the handle bar and the saw stayed in both hands. When my left elbow completely bent towards me, my body was pushed back and the wide open throttle saw, cut a kerf in the bill of my hard hat instead of my forehead.
After you start a bore cut and you feel the saw chattering in the cut it is kick back but it is contained inside the the wood by the wood above the bar. This is a very powerful force even though it might feel mild. I have had it break tie straps on the chain. When the chattering starts it can often be stopped by rotating the saw on its axis. Give the handle bar a shake left and right as if you where checking the play in a steering wheel.
I am 240 lbs and don't have a soft or weak spot on me, and kick back from a little saw scares the crap out of me.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Log Splitter
ArboristSite Guru
I'm no expert, just a weekend firewood guy, so take my comments for what they are worth.
I think, as for as safety is concerned, its a tradeoff. The borecut should be used only when needed, and the risk to the sawyer is kickback. However, when dealing with a heavy leaner, the risk to the sawyer is the tree (barberchair). In that case, borecutting is the safest technique.
I think, as for as safety is concerned, its a tradeoff. The borecut should be used only when needed, and the risk to the sawyer is kickback. However, when dealing with a heavy leaner, the risk to the sawyer is the tree (barberchair). In that case, borecutting is the safest technique.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Bore cuts are a lot smoother with a chain that has had the rakers taken down with a good individual tooth guage (file o plate) than one that has been eyeballed or angle grindered
Very true, I use the Pferd type that Husky etc sell.......
ropensaddle
Feel Lucky
No me thinks safest
is to piece down instead of felling. I have cut over ten thousand leaners
without a bore! I have used bore cuts to do other things like make bowls
hearts etc. Notch and backcut has worked in every other instance except
ice loaded trees and power prunner is used on them.
Log Splitter
ArboristSite Guru
LOL! I've survived the few borecuts I've done. I guarantee my old a$$ does not need to be up in a tree piecing something down.
"A man has to know his limitations"
-- Harry Callaghan (or somebody else Clint played....)
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