Bore cut kickback

[joesawer]

nope, not talking about anything different, rather than using the bottom of the bar tip (which wants to kick the saw outward-back at you, in the instance of a kickback) use the top side of the tip which would force the bar into the wood in the event of a kickback-which doesn't hardly ever happen because the wood that the saw would be using to kick back is already cut, ill try to get a video of it some time to further explain what i mean

Sorry, But the top half of the radius of the nose is where kick back comes from.
The bore should always be started with the bottom of the nose and followed in with the bar as described by Engineering nerd.

 

[sILlogger]

im talking about starting wth the top of the bar, i do it every day, ill just have to get a vid of it some time.

 

[ray benson]

Understanding the danger of posting pictures or video on this site, I'll take a risk and show an bore-cut example for critique. B_Turner, I wish I'd had one of your square ground chains for this one!

http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/...rrent=070616Borecutw372xpintobigoakstump3.flv

Nice bore cut.
I lose a couple chains a year to metal in trees. Last month cut a boxelder in a friends front yard. About 4' up hit a screwdriver blade in the middle of the 25" cut. The 24" chisel chain teeth looked like chisel on one side and semi-chisel on the other side. Last week hit something in a red oak. The branch was about 20' up and it really messed up the 14" chain.

 

[joesawer]

im talking about starting wth the top of the bar, i do it every day, ill just have to get a vid of it some time.

I think I know what you are talking about.
Do you start by bucking under a log and then push the nose into it.
I have seen a lot of people, myself included, make a top cut on the tension side then cut the close side and proceed with an up cut without ever taking the saw away from the log.

 

[Engineeringnerd]

I need to see a video of using the top of the tip. It sounds like the opposite of what you want to do to avoid kickback, but I may not be envisioning it right.

 

[Cedarkerf]

I use bore bucking big logs in the dirt you can't get under. Hard for me to explain on computer. But here goes. Compression on top of log cut 1/3to 1/2 or so down estimate where upper pinch point would be cut down past that point. Drop the tip down couple inches plunge and then cut down to bottom come up to underside of remaining wood as you cut thru remaining wood it Will close above and not pinch you saw. Some one else may be a lot better at describing this.

 

[sILlogger]

I think I know what you are talking about.
Do you start by bucking under a log and then push the nose into it.
I have seen a lot of people, myself included, make a top cut on the tension side then cut the close side and proceed with an up cut without ever taking the saw away from the log.

when i was talking about this i was referring to felling the tree. when bucking or topping i usually cut the side of the tree with the pinch pressure on it first until it tries to pinch the saw and then cut the other side, but will occasionally bore out the log. and i have done what your are talking about. i'll just have to get a vid or me boring a tree while felling.

 

[Bermie]

engineeringnerd, looks like a good job to me, but try using the top of the bar tip, starting with the top of the bar and then stick the saw in, pretty well eliminates any chance of kickback. but hey, everyone has there own way of doing things and as long as it works for you that is what matters, have a good 'un. and when u hit large objects it can give u a good big of kick, shear of cutter teeth, or break chains.

You can start a bore cut like this, as long as you start the cut back in the meat of the bar then roll the bar down and up towards the tip, by the time the top tip is cutting it is INSIDE the log, and you are better able to control the reactive force.

 

[RiverRat2]

You can start a bore cut like this, as long as you start the cut back in the meat of the bar then roll the bar down and up towards the tip, by the time the top tip is cutting it is INSIDE the log, and you are better able to control the reactive force.

Good post Bermie,,, I use that very same method and it does establish the kerf and allows for a much safer operation every time because you are starting behind the upper tip and the chain is running that direction anyway ,,,,

Tried to rep ya but you know :bang: :bang: :bang:

 

[Bermie]

Good post Bermie,,, I use that very same method and it does establish the kerf and allows for a much safer operation every time because you are starting behind the upper tip and the chain is running that direction anyway ,,,,

Tried to rep ya but you know :bang: :bang: :bang:

Ta....you know what I mean then.
Rep back

 

[sILlogger]

You can start a bore cut like this, as long as you start the cut back in the meat of the bar then roll the bar down and up towards the tip, by the time the top tip is cutting it is INSIDE the log, and you are better able to control the reactive force.

there we go!!! someone knows what i was trying to say, this is how i cut everyday, i guess i just didn't know how to explain it to everyone. im glad someone could follow me

 

[SawTroll]

engineeringnerd, looks like a good job to me, but try using the top of the bar tip, starting with the top of the bar and then stick the saw in, pretty well eliminates any chance of kickback. .....

Sounds like you are asking for kickback to me, did you really mean it that way?????

Maybe you are talking about something else? As far as boring, I dont think anyone should try this.

Agree!

You can start a bore cut like this, as long as you start the cut back in the meat of the bar then roll the bar down and up towards the tip, by the time the top tip is cutting it is INSIDE the log, and you are better able to control the reactive force.

That sounds much better, I have never done it though!

 

[SawTroll]

Good post Bermie,,, I use that very same method and it does establish the kerf and allows for a much safer operation every time because you are starting behind the upper tip and the chain is running that direction anyway ,,,,

Tried to rep ya but you know :bang: :bang: :bang:

Agree, same result with the rep, Bermie have made "too" many good posts lately to let me rep them all.........

.....managed to hit you though, and a gold dot appeared...... :biggrinbounce2:

 

[Crofter]

You can start a bore cut like this, as long as you start the cut back in the meat of the bar then roll the bar down and up towards the tip, by the time the top tip is cutting it is INSIDE the log, and you are better able to control the reactive force.

It seems like this would only work if you were starting your bore cut below centre on a felled tree or were free to do a bit of foot work if it was standing. How would you accomplish it above centre?

 

[RiverRat2]

Thanks Niko,,,,,, I apperciate it,,,,

Agree, same result with the rep, Bermie have made "too" many good posts lately to let me rep them all.........

.....managed to hit you though, and a gold dot appeared...... :biggrinbounce2:

I had that happen to me on one of the other regulars (forgot who it was) here on the board about a month back it was pretty neat I hit them and the gold button popped up,,, it was pretty cool..............

That method Bermie described does work very well for establishing a bore cut on a downed spar that is suspended due to irregular terrain,, only very slight pressure is needed and once the kerf is started after the slight roll down then as you lift and apply pressure with the top tip you are boring away,,,, it works real good with dirty wood around the stump especially on uprooted stuff that we have to deal with from time to time with my bro.s stump/problem tree removal service,,, or the outer bark is dirty you can avoid much of the dirt and premature dulling of chains with using the bore cuts,,,, to get most of the way through the spar then use the machinery,,, Grapple truck, skidder, etc. to finish it off JMHO

 

[Bermie]

It seems like this would only work if you were starting your bore cut below centre on a felled tree or were free to do a bit of foot work if it was standing. How would you accomplish it above centre?

Quite right, above centre, use the bottom of the bar!!! It has two sides!! (sorry couldn't resist!)

 

[SawTroll]

Quite right, above centre, use the bottom of the bar!!! It has two sides!! (sorry couldn't resist!)

Good point!!!

 

[RiverRat2]

Lol.......

Quite right, above centre, use the bottom of the bar!!! It has two sides!! (sorry couldn't resist!)

+1 Bermie