Bow Bars, What are they used for?

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Crofter

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I see some reference to them occasionally but have never laid eyes on one. What are they used for and what is bad about them.

Frank
 
They are popular down south with firewood cutters and pulpwooders for bucking up small diameter logs. the front of the bow is plunged down into the log and the hole in the middle keeps it from binding. They are not bad at all as long as the "claw" is kept on it. This keeps it from kicking back.
George
 
That's the problem the cutter's would remove the claw and then it becomes a "widowmaker".I guy at my work got killed by one trying to limb over head with one.Hit him right in the juggler:eek: I still got one on my Homelite Wiz 55.An of course it has no claw:rolleyes: That's why it is staying on the shelf.
 
Thanks for asking that question, Frank.  I've wondered too, and kept forgetting to research it.

A quick check with google didn't return any images I could look at, but there was this description at http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Comet/6498/t2000wildfireequipment.html<blockquote>The gas powered chainsaw has become one of the most useful cutting tools, largely replacing the axe, brush hook and hand saw.&nbsp; When equipped with the more common straight bar it can make quick work of falling trees and cutting up logs, it can be used on brush as well but for that task the bow bar is preferred.&nbsp; The bow bar is a large oval shaped hoop which the chain runs around, it has a hook on the top and bottom which is used to catch brush allowing the chain to cut it.</blockquote>It appears as though Poulan invented them in 1944 (http://www.poulan.com/about_brand/poulan_history.asp).

Glen
 
Down here most Pulp Wood, Fire Wood and Pro Loggers do use the Bow Bars. They are very fast and much easier on the back to buck logs.
I have used the 14 & 16 inch Bows sense the mid sixties and use them bucking all downed fire wood. The Bows are 24 o 26 inches long and 14 & 16 inches wide at the spur. If you ever use one you will become spoiled to the ease of bucking logs and will never want to go back to the Bar. You do not have to lift the log to make your cuts in most cases and never hit dirt. Of course like every thing else they take some time gettig used to.
These Bows can be very dangerous and should never be used by the novice wood cutter. Using the Bow over head is asking for big trouble.
The benifits of the Bow is working upright while bucking downed logs. You should never use a bow bar far felling a large tree because the bow places you in a very dangerous position directly behind the tree and the notch and back cuts cannot be properly made
Kick backs can be very violent if the bow contacks limbs or other material at the top of the bows curve above the spur. The spur must be properly locked into the log before you start your cut. I personaly know a man who was in a tree with a ladder and a Poulan with a Bow trying to hold on with one hand and cut with the right. Well a serious kick back occured and the Bow cut his right ear off down his neck ands thru his collar bone about 3 inches into his shoulder. He lived and I still know him well, but can guarantee that he never climbs a tree again are uses a Chain saw with one hand.
JT


I do not have a digital camera yet as I am a teckno Neanderthal but I am going to get one soon so I can post pictures.
 
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I have seen the bow bars before but never seen one used. I understand the concept of being able to stand more upright but I fail to see how you keep it out of the dirt. I am sure I am toatlly missing something but if the log is on the ground you are still going to hit the dirt when the cut goes through. I do not see any advantage when that is factored in. As I said i am sure I am missing something so those who have used them tell me what it is.

Bill
 
Bow Bars

Bow bars are most popular with tree thinning ( mostly large areas of dog hair stands ). The large circular ( bow ) end allows more edge for cutting and the peg helps to either pull the smaller dog hair trunk into the cutters or also to keep the bow out of the dirt as you are continually pushing into your next tree. If one is not carefull though you will get a tree in the open center of the bow and I have seen this to cause people to walk into the bar.
Remember people to be carefull out there, let the saw do the work for you!
 
Maybe I am missing something but how does the bow allow anymore cutter contact than a standard bar. A standard bar will contact a three inch trunk the same as a bow. In fact I can see if you are using the end of the bow you will actually lose contact area. If the bow was inverted (impossible) then it would increase the area.

Just my random thoughts

Bill
 
When in stands of dog hair ie; saplings of waist high to head high and 1 or so inches apart, you can push the bow bar into several tree's at a time while pushing the larger tree's over with your hand. Thus the larger cutting surface of the end of the bow.
 
Hi Richard, Welcome to AS. I too have never seen a bowbar in use but I haven`t travelled the world over spacing trees either. I understand the technique you describe but I don`t understand why you wouldn`t just use a dozer with a root rake or a pulverizer? Do you do this on a limited basis around trees left to grow or do you do large areas this way? Russ
 
I had a bow on an old Remington and it was the easiest saw to buck logs with. Never had a kickback or any other unsafe condition with it.
 
Hello back Russ, Thanks for the welcome.
When I was first introduced to the bow bar was in the early 70's in the Black Hills of South Dakota where I grew up. Right around Mt. Rushmore, and if you have ever saw the Mountain, you will get an idea of the terrain there. From Custer State Park to the foothills around Huillett Wyoming there is lots of Ponderosa pine, and spruce ( some Canadian Blue ). There are lots of areas where skidders and crawlers can't get to. Some that are either to steep or to rocky.Back then ( I don't know about today ) they still pulled logs out with the help of mule teams in some of these loggable areas.
The bow bar was handy for large areas ( some several thousand acres ) of new growth, such as after forest fires and such where equipment was impossible to get to.
Bows are also used on some of the larger tree's when thinning and spacing also but I personnally have never used one on timber over about 9 or 10 inches. Anything over that would go back to the straight bar.
 

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