Bringing a Vintage Homelite 7-21 back to life.

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Looking good so far...Like Randy said the reeds are ok or you can flip them over also as was mentioned. The Homelite reeds have offset mounting though so you'll have to play with positioning to get the screw holes to line up.
 
Jacob J.;240205. The Homelite reeds have offset mounting though so you'll have to play with positioning to get the screw holes to line up.[/QUOTE said:
the screw holes are offset so you can't just flip them. maybe spring them from where the backing plate mounts to put in a little camber /arc so they'll lie flat when screwed down.
there are some on ebay, new synthetics, search 'vintage homelite reeds'.
we used to use this pyramid and a stuffer block on our clinton a-490 kart motors. looks like it would fit on a zip also, wanted to do this, vroom!
BTW-are you a dentist ? that looks like something mine did to my tooth with the post an all. good stuff !
 
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Reeds

Thanks for the reed help guys. I just didn't want to bolt it back together if it wasn't right.

I mean no disrespect to Randy or JacobJ but I disagree with flipping the reeds. As turtle561 said the holes are offset for this reason. Reeds should not be flipped as they are designed to operate in only one direction and if flexed in the opposite direction may metal fatigue and break. If this happens you will have one very pretty but real broken Homelite. I would go for Boyzen or other synthetic reed replacement. They work better than metal and if they break and get ingested do not ruin your motor.

I don't know a lot about reeds in chainsaws but having been born and grown up on an island off the coast I have a lifetime of experience with outboard motors which are still mostly reed motors to this day. Flipping nonsealing reeds in an outboard is taboo, not done, NADA!!!! A broken reed in a 150 horse 2 cycle is an expensive problem. Like new powerhead time!! Not to mention they NEVER break AT the dock!!! If you break a little reed 25 miles offshore you had better have a good radio!!

Do yourself a favor and either don't touch them or replace with NOS steel or as turtle said go with synthetic Boyzens or equivalent. Do not take a chance and bend or flip reeds.
They are cheap and not worth the risk. Again IMHO....(but not only mine!!):cheers:
 
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Nice work, and thanks for taking the time to show the detailed photos!

Cant wait to see your finished saw!



Thanks, It does the twice the time or more to document the process. But, I wanted to share this restore with AS members for a few reasons. First, I need help....LOL. This is only the second chainsaw that I've been this far into. So, a lot of this is new to me. I don't want to do too little or to much. Most of the work will be limited to painting and making sure that it will run longterm. Second, I need help with IPL's and figuring out what parts I can use off other saws of this vintage. Thirdly, I need help birddogging parts down. The kevlar reeds are a great example. Fourly, I am posting this to help others wmight be doing or thinking about similar projects. Thanks for all the help/advice.

BTW, This old gear drive will be available for anyone to run at future GTG's in the Midwest. WDO
 
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For the Record.......

I mean no disrespect to Randy or JacobJ but I disagree with flipping the reeds. As turtle561 said the holes are offset for this reason. Reeds should not be flipped as they are designed to operate in only one direction and if flexed in the opposite direction may metal fatigue and break. If this happens you will have one very pretty but real broken Homelite. I would go for Boyzen or other synthetic reed replacement. They work better than metal and if they break and get ingested do not ruin your motor.

I don't know a lot about reeds in chainsaws but having been born and grown up on an island off the coast I have a lifetime of experience with outboard motors which are still mostly reed motors to this day. Flipping nonsealing reeds in an outboard taboo, not done, NADA!!!! A broken reed in a 150 horse 2 cycle is an expensive problem. Like new powerhead time!! Not to mention they NEVER break AT the dock!!! If you break a little reed 25 miles offshore you had better have a good radio!!

Do yourself a favor and either don't touch them or replace with NOS steel or as turtle said go with synthetic Boyzens or equivalent. Do take a chance and bend or flip reeds.
They are cheap and not worth the risk. Again IMHO....(but not only mine!!):cheers:

Randy didn't suggest he flip the reeds............I did. You make good points. We're not running these engines at the RPM's that outboard and motorcycle racers are however. I doubt it'd have been a problem with this old saw. Better safe than sorry though...

Randy said to run 'em as is, as they looked fine.:cheers:
 
Randy didn't suggest he flip the reeds............I did. You make good points. We're not running these engines at the RPM's that outboard and motorcycle racers are however. I doubt it'd have been a problem with this old saw. Better safe than sorry though...

Randy said to run 'em as is, as they looked fine.:cheers:

Sorry about that.. to you and Randy!! I wasn't talking racing motors just any ol stock outboard most stock outboards top out at around 5,000-5,500 rpm WOT. This homelite is supposed to turn 6,000. So quite ballpark. You might be right about it not being a problem on this saw as it will probably never get run a lot more actual hours. But I know my luck and know what all the outboard guys think about flipping or bending reed valves. They laugh about the same as guys on this site laugh if they see someone has their chain on backwards!!!

I agree with Randy too they don't look great but if it ran before it will most likely run again. But either leave em alone or replace, don't try to "fix" those ones, was all I was saying.:cheers:
 
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Sorry about that.. to you and Randy!! I wasn't talking racing motors just any ol stock outboard most stock outboards top out at around 5,000-5,500 rpm WOT. This homelite is supposed to turn 6,000. So quite ballpark. You might be right about it not being a problem on this saw as it will probably ever get run a lot more actual hours. But I know my luck and know what all the outboard guys think about flipping or bending reed valves. They laugh about the same as guys on this site laugh if they see someone has their chain on backwards!!!

I agree with Randy too they don't look great but if it ran before it will most likely run again. But either leave em alone or replace, don't try to "fix" those ones, was all I was saying.:cheers:

No worries. Just wanted to "own" the bad advice given.................rather than have Randy be blamed for it...:cheers:
 
I think outboards only turn what they turn RPM wise is partially because there is only a piece of plastic between you and the engine if it grenades. With very little work that black max 200 on my checkmate would scream.
 
OK, first "I don't have a clue" moment. What do I need to remove the flywheel?

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I think outboards only turn what they turn RPM wise is partially because there is only a piece of plastic between you and the engine if it grenades. With very little work that black max 200 on my checkmate would scream.

Not so much wildman, if you have the power to scream you adjust up your prop dia. and pitch to compensate. That's how you go faster in a boat. Also in a boat motor you may run at WOT for an hour at a time so you have to stay within the specs for your motor or you have to improve your motor with performance motor and cooling parts to allow higher RPM levels. Believe me I've had em explode right behind me. You wouldn't think a fire a sea would be scary with all that water, but where do you go??? And once you've gone there what do you do next???

Nope, your prop is your adjustable link kinda like a rim drive. You wouldn't run a 6 pin with a 14" bar on a real raced up saw. You would probably run an 8 pin with a 18" inch. The point being to use the power and get as much out of it as you can, not waste it.:cheers:
 
Dog gone it, quit being all reasonable and ####. I thought I was goin' to Maine and hunt somebody down.

HAHAHA!!! You're welcome here any time Randy. But be forewarned I do have a pony tail and don't take to bein' shot all that much especially by a new acquaintance. However I certainly do like sippin whiskey!!!
You come, I'll buy!!!! I ain't much on tree huggers and socialists either maybe after few ol #7s we can have some target practice!!!!Plenty of transplanted ones up here and their slow too!!LOLOLOL!!!:cheers:
 
OK, first "I don't have a clue" moment. What do I need to remove the flywheel?

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Lets see if i can remember correctly.
The first part that spins, You need to remove the screw in the side then that part will slid off. Then remove the 3 screws that hold the ball retainer and remove all the balls.
Then remove the flywheel nut and remove that collar thingy.
I usually put a nut back on the crankshaft and with a couple light taps while prying up on the flywheel it will pop off.
Hope this helps.

Lee
 
Dog gone it, quit being all reasonable and ####. I thought I was goin' to Maine and hunt somebody down.

I figured you'd swing through Sebastopol and throw some rocks at me before your long 'hunting' trip east.........so I had 'ta fix things ASAP...

HAHAHA!!! You're welcome here any time Randy. But be forewarned I do have a pony tail and don't take to bein' shot all that much especially by a new acquaintance. However I certainly do like sippin whiskey!!!
You come, I'll buy!!!! I ain't much on tree huggers and socialists either maybe after few ol #7s we can have some target practice!!!!Plenty of transplanted ones up here and their slow too!!LOLOLOL!!!:cheers:

Now that sounds like a fun trip. We'd have to swing down through NH and visist my FIL afterwards. He also likes good whiskey and cigars, and would thoroughly enjoy the shooting sports...


I've always swapped Boysen reeds into my 2-stroke motorcycle engines, both for piece of mind and for performance. It's been 20 years since I swapped in the last set.............yet I'm still finding sets of swapped out steel reeds in boxes in the garage.....:givebeer:
 
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