Bringing a Vintage Homelite 7-21 back to life.

[whitedogone]

I wish I took a closeup before I started on it. It was a real rust bucket.

 

[whitedogone]

I'm working on getting the recoil right. What is the best thing to lube the recoil parts/spring with? I was thinking graphite or silicone.

 

[turtle561]

I was thinking graphite or silicone.[/QUOTE]

good question/idea. i like the graphite, will try that next time. i put the last one on a poulan 3700 in dry. i may revisit it with some graphite.
seems like all oil/grease either dries out or gums up with dust of some sort. i'm not into routine maintenance on the springs.
BTW-liked your treatment of the chain. did that get the rust from between the plates and free it up ?

 

[whitedogone]

good question/idea. i like the graphite, will try that next time. i put the last one on a poulan 3700 in dry. i may revisit it with some graphite.
seems like all oil/grease either dries out or gums up with dust of some sort. i'm not into routine maintenance on the springs.
BTW-liked your treatment of the chain. did that get the rust from between the plates and free it up ?

That was the problem with the recoil.....gummed up. The washing soda did in fact remove rust from between the links and free it up.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Tried to rep ya for that one but I guess I've some speading around to do....

Great project! I got him on the REP end! :greenchainsaw:

 

[Eccentric]

Repped his chain de-rusting post yesterday. I've seen that process done with truck parts and such before................but never with chains. I have a couple of old loops that have little wear, but a buncha rust. Gonna save them and give this a try someday.opcorn:

 

[whitedogone]

Wow, Thanks for the rep guys!

I've been working on reworking the recoil. The part that the starter rope feeds thru was supposed to be rivited to the screen that covers the flywheel. It is also held on the saw by a bolt (where I temped a bolt). When I took the recoil off it came off in 2 pieces. It would work just fine as is, but you guessed it.... I attemped a fix.

JB weld:

Anybody have any ideas on how to get all (or most)of the dings out of the Ashtray before paint?

 

[whitedogone]

Seeing Red

Well, I've been looking forward and dreading this day since I started. Everything is masked off and primed and it's time for the color coat. I've never shot anything with this base/decals/clear coat before. I hope all goes well. I can think of quite a few things that could go wrong with these steps. If it does, it's going to be costly to fix or I will have to live with subpar results. The paint alone was $70+ add the decals $25 or so.

I have a LOT of lights in my shop. But I added more:

All red parts red:

WDO

 

[leeha]

Nothing wrong with that.
The red looks great. Nice
work place and great lighting.
The one thing i do just so the
parts don't stick to anything is
i hang them with a piece of coat
hanger.


Lee

 

[whitedogone]

Bad News

I got the decal kit and the carb kit yesterday. I got to looking at it this morning. Well, it was supposted to be a DECAL kit. It is in fact part decal and part Vinyl stickers....WTH. I have put a lot time and $$ in a paint job with clear coat to protect the DECALS under clearcoat. Now I'm suppost to put stickers on top of everything? Not good. It will probably look like some first grader did it. WDO

 

[whitedogone]

Moving forward

Since this is the only decal kit available, I'm moving forward.

So I could match the placement of the new decals. I took closeup pictures of all the decals with a tape measure in the photos before I stripped the paint. I will be installing the vinyl decals first as the wet side decals are much more fragile.

Squaring things up:

Next, I put small pieces of painters tape where the decal needed to be. Then brushed on some water with a drop of dish soap in it.

After carefully positioning the decal in place I firmly set it in place:

Finally, I removed the alignment paper:

 

[whitedogone]

Wet Slide

Next, it was on to the wet side decals. I will be use using 2 products that make this type of decal look better.

After dipping the decals in water for 10 seconds or so and waiting another minuite for them to release, I flooded the area with Micro-set:

Carefully slide into place:

Pulling the backing paper out carefully:

After everything was carefully smoothed flat, I applyed a coat of Micro-sol to melt everthing down.

The Micro-sol kind of wrinkles the decals up. But they will be fine once dryed:

 

[whitedogone]

I had to do some Assembly of the short block, handle, recoil, and wrap so that I could get the decals on the gear case and ashtray level.

Vinyl first:

Then the wet slides:

 

[leeha]

Your doing a very nice job.
Looks great.


Lee

 

[little possum]

Awesome work WDO!

 

[turtle561]

:agree2:
a real treat to see to see one of these new again !

 

[thomas72]

A very nice job. Looks good.

 

[whitedogone]

Thanks,

I'm looking for Muffler parts:

Damper 55506-1
Cap 55507
Element A-56068

Also:
72174 Gasket (fuel outlet fitting)
55738 Valve shut off

 

[Mastermind]

Absolutely fine work you are doing.

I can't wait to see this saw running.

 

[little possum]

Updates, or still tracking down parts?

What do you do with the negative cable? And how much baking soda did you use?