Well, in the spirit of a good discussion here goes.. First I fully stand by my decision to use pex pipe underground.. I don't think you'd find too many people who would recommend steel whether they get it for free or not. Pex is really cheap and easy to work with and most importantly freeze resistant if need be. However, if you used one inch or above and insulated if ( curious to know with what and how much which is REALLY important ) ) that shouldn't be the culprit. And btw, multistory buildings all have their pipes inside, not outside. As one who has had steel pipes burst, its silly ( IMHO ) to even think they compare with modern day pex, but again, that's probably not the problem and your decision to live with when they close up on you..
I find it amazing to read your life's story and not find out what square footage your house is or how its insulated. How in the world did you figure out what unit to purchase ? You turned around and bought the second smallest woodmaster they had to offer ? Given your decision to go overboard as you put it, why wouldn't you do the same with the OWB ?
Its this simple ( IMHO ) you either have : too small a unit
an auto fill/pipe thats leaking
stat thats incorrect/boiling
even lousier wood than me
heat loss thru the pipes
draft blower not shutting off/or
not operating properly
( fill in the ones I missed )
Its not true that the boiler was the only thing changed, it was one of several components, most importantly is the fact you ran pipes outside and connected it to the owb and pump/ etc. That's the constant and the one to look at closely. I'd sure be interested in knowing what that water temp is when it comes out of your OWB and what it is when it comes in the house. Borrow an infrared unit and check it. Eliminate some possible causes. From what I read I didnt see too much that was checked out and eliminated.. Did you ever go out and listen to the draft motor if it shuts off after reaching temp ? Did you look at the chimney occasionally in a similar fashion. Its real easy to see if the draft motor is on by the smoke/updraft.
Finally, its your unit but after spending thousands on it, I'd sure want to talk w/ a reputable dealer and it doesn't even have to be a woodmaster dealer. You seem to adamantly refuse to do so. These things for the most part are remarkably similar. A woodfire surrounded by water that's heated from the firebox with a chimney. A draft motor, thermostat and pump. Fancy advertising aside, why do you think the burn times are so similar for different types of OWB's ? A POS woodmaster ( or any unit ) is really hard to fathom that its that far off the mark.. I do agree they are remarkably inefficient for the most part and in a few years will be much better. I sure hope the improvements can be aftermarket........