ncsawguy
ArboristSite Operative
I want my stuff to run good and look good. I like to keep stuff clean. I believe it will. thanks to the builder. I like how he did the bearings. does fine work.
Case Bearing Installation
- Thread starter Mastermind
- Start date
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glock37
Addicted to ArboristSite
you mean like this clean
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
You let that TN hack work on that nice saw?
glock37
Addicted to ArboristSite
That saw tore my back up for a month cutting wood for camp
I think that tenn. hack did a awesome job
I think that tenn. hack did a awesome job
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Now if it's too much saw for you........I'll take her of your hands. ;-))
glock37
Addicted to ArboristSite
I enjoyed getting my butt kicked
by one off your beasts
I can take it
by one off your beasts
I can take it
DexterDay
Addicted to ArboristSite
Always nice to see how the real pros do it 
Very nice thread Randy. Love the detail you put in them.
Very nice thread Randy. Love the detail you put in them.
Thanks for taking the time, Randy. The ones I've done were with a toaster oven, but I've since acquired a heat gun (same one as yours) and may give it a try next time around. I must say, I've never had the crank and case half just slip into place as you indicate is how it works for you and am wondering if you might care to elaborate on your method for pulling that off. I've always been reluctant to apply any heat to the bearings aside from what is absorbed from the case during installation for fear of causing cage deformity (depending on the bearing style, of course). I've always needed to draw the case halves onto the crank with extra long case bolts to get it started before buttoning it up with the regular bolts.
And about the seal installation....someone asked if you would share a tip or two on that subject as well? I know it sounds like a simple operation, but there are a few times I wish I had a tutorial on at least the crank side of an old 066. (Took me three attempts to get it where I think is basically the correct depth and having it actually seal effectively in the bore and around the crank without that extra stub on the flywheel rubbing up against it.)
The PTO side was the typical deep-well socket/washer approach to get a nice flush fit with a little Dirko on the O.D. for sealant and a little red grease on the crank and I.D. to keep the inner lip from curling.
And about the seal installation....someone asked if you would share a tip or two on that subject as well? I know it sounds like a simple operation, but there are a few times I wish I had a tutorial on at least the crank side of an old 066. (Took me three attempts to get it where I think is basically the correct depth and having it actually seal effectively in the bore and around the crank without that extra stub on the flywheel rubbing up against it.)
The PTO side was the typical deep-well socket/washer approach to get a nice flush fit with a little Dirko on the O.D. for sealant and a little red grease on the crank and I.D. to keep the inner lip from curling.
Always nice to see how the real pros do it
Very nice thread Randy. Love the detail you put in them.
+1
Ugly girls need love tooI can't believe someone would ask you to work on such a decrepit saw
Excellent tutorial for us budding hobbyists!
Ever do this on Husky 254's / 262's? Any special tips for the same procedure?
Ever do this on Husky 254's / 262's? Any special tips for the same procedure?
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I can't remember splitting a 262....probably have though. We do them all about the same way.
Pogo, maybe your just not getting it hot enough? Every now and then we'll have to tap something, or pull it up.
Next time we get into a rebuild, we'll snap some more pics, and do something on seal installation.
Pogo, maybe your just not getting it hot enough? Every now and then we'll have to tap something, or pull it up.
Next time we get into a rebuild, we'll snap some more pics, and do something on seal installation.
exSW
ArboristSite Guru
Hey I got to run that saw.Now I want one.
glock37
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ugly girls need love too
There only ugly if you can see them ! girls that is !
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
At least they ain't snackie sized.....
Just leaving a bread crumb....
jeremyc
ArboristSite Member
Is ill have to give this a try on my next rebuild. I struggled with the 066 red light that I just finished. Tried to heat them up in a toaster oven but really didn't get it hot enough I guess. ..... Need to buy a blown up saw to practice on !
Thanks for showing how it's done for guys like me that are newbies to this stuff.
Thanks for showing how it's done for guys like me that are newbies to this stuff.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
If any of you guys get into something and need some help......
I'll do my best to share what little I've learned.......just give us a shout.
I'll do my best to share what little I've learned.......just give us a shout.
firefighterwolf
ArboristSite Operative
Same procedure. The only thing is on earlier 254's, including 154's, the oil drive gear is brass and pressed onto the crankshaft behind the oil pump. Husky made/makes a tool to remove and install. I don't know if it can be done without the tool. The gear needs to be removed prior to splitting the case and re-installed after the crankshaft has been pulled back into place. I've done a few, the last was about 3 or 4 years ago.
Later (254XP, 257, 261, 262XP) models had the plastic oil drive gears driven by the clutch drum.
I'd imagine Sawtroll would know the finer details of this.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I have that tool, had to get it for a seal change on a 262.......forgot all about those saws being built like that....
