Case Bearing Installation

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Kept a close eye on it so that I wouldnt ruin the av bushins.they can take a lot of heat.the pto side just dropped in but the flywheel side stopped within 1/8th inch of going in flush.tried to peck it in right fast but just wasnt fast enough.I'll press it out and try again.
 
Why not just press it the last bit instead of pressing it out? You gota press on the inner race to remove it, but press on the outer to install it.
 
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Why not just press it the last bit instead of pressing it out? You gota press on the inner race to remove it, but press on the outer to install it.
He may be onto something. Press out = force on inner race = not ideal. Press in = force on outer race = OK.
Dern samel "chimp" Jackson beat me to it.
As did albert. Why doesn't the 2nd 1/2 of his post show in the post, but does when I quoted him.
 
Randy great thread! I'm in the middle of rebuilding a ms361 and I have a stupid question. At what part of the build do I put the crank seals in? When the case is hot? Or press them in?
 
Same procedure. The only thing is on earlier 254's, including 154's, the oil drive gear is brass and pressed onto the crankshaft behind the oil pump. Husky made/makes a tool to remove and install. I don't know if it can be done without the tool. The gear needs to be removed prior to splitting the case and re-installed after the crankshaft has been pulled back into place. I've done a few, the last was about 3 or 4 years ago.

Later (254XP, 257, 261, 262XP) models had the plastic oil drive gears driven by the clutch drum.

I believe there is a post on here somewhere that shows how a 3/4" iron pipe coupler will thread onto that gear nicely. Then you can use a regular gear puller to yank on the coupler - pulls them off slick. Once it is off, I convert the saw to use the newer plastic gear with the different clutch drum. That way it no longer pumps oil when idling and its a fairly cheap upgrade.
 
We have a big box of crap here that a local feller is hoping to get some more use out of. This sort of stuff is about all that we see locally, and the main reason we do very little local work.







Between these two carcasses Jon will try to build a runner.....





To me it would seem with all the work that needs to go into these parts to make anything useful, (unless done by ones self) it would simply not be cost effective to pay a professional such as your self to do it. To me it would seem better to buy a new and or find a good used saw?
 
Sorry if anyone had questions for me. I just "found" this thread again. I never got any notifications or alerts. The forum's issues are really getting under my skin. If anyone needs to contact me use my email.
 
Sorry if anyone had questions for me. I just "found" this thread again. I never got any notifications or alerts. The forum's issues are really getting under my skin. If anyone needs to contact me use my email.


with all them saws coming in you should be able to spring for a new compruta No?
 
Nice thread. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and skill.

Sent from my C5155 using Tapatalk
 
I believe there is a post on here somewhere that shows how a 3/4" iron pipe coupler will thread onto that gear nicely. Then you can use a regular gear puller to yank on the coupler - pulls them off slick. Once it is off, I convert the saw to use the newer plastic gear with the different clutch drum. That way it no longer pumps oil when idling and its a fairly cheap upgrade.

Thank you Agrarian, you saved me a bunch of frustration with this post. I used a 1/2 inch black pipe floor flange. It loosely screwed on to my 262's brass worm gear. Then I pulled it off with a harmonic balancer puller. Two 1/4 inch carriage bolts thru the pipe flange's floor mount holes nutted to the puller. Pop goes the weasel.
 

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