Chain for Australian hardwood

[ericm979]

In southern and central CA there was a craze for planting blue gum in the late 1800s and early 1900s. You can still see old stands and fencerows with some big diameter trees. Some people planted it for lumber only to find that here where it grows faster than in Australia, it's terrible lumber. In coastal areas with plenty of water it can seed new plants, so it's mildly invasive.

My place was a farm in the late 1800s and early 1900s and the market for the lumber crashed in 1914 so they probably planted the eucs before then.

 

[davidwyby]

Driving around San Diego today, there are tons of different eucs. The last one died recently. It’s in a Ravine on the bluff half way down to the beach. Lots of rain last winter.




I live 2 hr east in the desert.

I’d really like to know what kind this is:

 

[davidwyby]

The curved spar was a good success. Shoved it with the forklift.

A lot of the ones alone the fence row look shiny like fish.

 

[GoldField]

Driving around San Diego today, there are tons of different eucs. The last one died recently. It’s in a Ravine on the bluff half way down to the beach. Lots of rain last winter.

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I live 2 hr east in the desert.

I’d really like to know what kind this is:

Take with a big grain of salt, but I think that big eucalyptus in the video may be a red gum. The way it looks like a willow gives me pause though.

Some of your previous posts that had a deep furrowed bark I believe to be ironbark.

All are phenomenal as firewood.

Enjoy seeing all the different posts of eucalyptus, both domestically and south of the equator.

 

[davidwyby]

I think red gum tends to get hollows. The horizontal limb trunks throw me off. I need to look at the leaves and flowers/fruit.

Careful what you wish for…
Just spotted this twisted sister in SD.


I’m supplying the rounds for my friend’s daughter’s wedding. Trying to cut crooked wood straight…
Some red gum a local tree co is attempting to remove.



I have a short gin pole/tow frame I put in my trucks and use to skid logs and winch up on tilt trailer.



I was relieved to see a couple big old ones in the park survived their heavy handed pruning.



Sposed to remove this one. Will probably pull it, and or change weight with limb removals.

 

[davidwyby]

More fencerow. Red gum? Love my council 6lb fire axe.






Pieced this one down in town


Might finally try a triple hinge/shark gill on this dead hard leaner.

 

[davidwyby]

Not familiar with your trees so take this with a grain of salt. it looks like your not leaving enough holding/hinge wood imo. Looks like you cut through about half of it. Hard to tell about your face but from the side it looks a bit odd, which could just be the camera angle. Seems where your gun and bottom cut come together has a pretty wide margin, which could have been purposeful. Normally that's pretty tight even with a typical open face cut. Should make a "v" angle. Don't take any offense if I'm off base, again not familiar with that type of tree.

So I dropped another big spar tonight and it did not “split/peel/flex” hinge how I wanted. I think I figured out why, and I came back here to re-read. Basically, yeah, hinge too thin. On trees that leaned to the lay and didn’t need to be wedged (like tonight), I just cut until they go (without cutting them clear off the stump of course). This makes the hinge too thin at the top of the Open Block Face (yes it’s intentional) and the thin wood at the top of the face bends and breaks instead of folding down the face (like it does in the large back yard tree video where we winched it over) so now I know…tall open face, back cut even with top of face, thick hinge…and winch or pound wedges big time…but then I got another idea. We really just need the corners of the hinge, not the center, so if I gut the hinge like @weimedog it will be easier to wedge over.

Now this next idea gets over into crazy land…When the back cut gets high, you are basically trying to pull the hinge straight up vs. tip the tree over…what if we use a less steep farmer back cut to wedge off of so the wedge is pushing the tree over instead of up? All fine an dandy until the back of the tree blows out and it goes over backwards…

 

[davidwyby]

Fetched another down and up on the trailer tonight.
Measuring the face from a log in the lay for precision.

 

[weimedog]

That looks like a project

 

[sean donato]

So I dropped another big spar tonight and it did not “split/peel/flex” hinge how I wanted. I think I figured out why, and I came back here to re-read. Basically, yeah, hinge too thin. On trees that leaned to the lay and didn’t need to be wedged (like tonight), I just cut until they go (without cutting them clear off the stump of course). This makes the hinge too thin at the top of the Open Block Face (yes it’s intentional) and the thin wood at the top of the face bends and breaks instead of folding down the face (like it does in the large back yard tree video where we winched it over) so now I know…tall open face, back cut even with top of face, thick hinge…and winch or pound wedges big time…but then I got another idea. We really just need the corners of the hinge, not the center, so if I gut the hinge like @weimedog it will be easier to wedge over.

Now this next idea gets over into crazy land…When the back cut gets high, you are basically trying to pull the hinge straight up vs. tip the tree over…what if we use a less steep farmer back cut to wedge off of so the wedge is pushing the tree over instead of up? All fine an dandy until the back of the tree blows out and it goes over backwards…

Glad your figuring out what works and what doesn't. I'd caution against the "farmer" back cut, or any version that isn't straight.

 

[rogue60]

So I dropped another big spar tonight and it did not “split/peel/flex” hinge how I wanted. I think I figured out why, and I came back here to re-read. Basically, yeah, hinge too thin. On trees that leaned to the lay and didn’t need to be wedged (like tonight), I just cut until they go (without cutting them clear off the stump of course). This makes the hinge too thin at the top of the Open Block Face (yes it’s intentional) and the thin wood at the top of the face bends and breaks instead of folding down the face (like it does in the large back yard tree video where we winched it over) so now I know…tall open face, back cut even with top of face, thick hinge…and winch or pound wedges big time…but then I got another idea. We really just need the corners of the hinge, not the center, so if I gut the hinge like @weimedog it will be easier to wedge over.

Now this next idea gets over into crazy land…When the back cut gets high, you are basically trying to pull the hinge straight up vs. tip the tree over…what if we use a less steep farmer back cut to wedge off of so the wedge is pushing the tree over instead of up? All fine an dandy until the back of the tree blows out and it goes over backwards…

Yeah forget the farmer back cut will just split the back out.
I think ya problem is not enough wedging power is why you are almost cutting the hinge wood away to nothing just so you can get em moving. Ya don't have height and gravity to help you with the heads of the trees gone basically it's all relying on wedging.
Not sure what you are using but forget the axe and plastic wedges here.
Plastic wedges and an axe have their place a good cutter will have both options and the second option being a sledge and steel wedges for when ya need to step up wedging power.
Is good practice to have ya normal plastic wedges and axe along with a sledge and steel wedges in ya "ute" you guys call em "trucks" for when needed.

All the old hardwood cutter's down here had a sledge and steel wedges at their disposal when needed. This is my dads old 14 pound sledge he got it sometime in the 70's when he was a hardwood cutter for sawmills up north.
For example that Forest Red Gum in my avatar if it sat back on ya bar a sledge and steel wedge will lift it! is no way on this planet plastic wedges and an axe is moving it they will exploded/break just trying to start em in the closed kerf lol
Also if bucking a log like cut the head off and not paying attention and the kerf closes on ya and pinches ya saw bad in hardwood the above will have ya saw out in minutes even with a closed kerf and many tonnes of pressure.

 

[davidwyby]

@rogue60 I found one

 

[Sidecarflip]

My regimen when grinding chains is if my customers mostly cut green wood, I'll cut the teeth at 30 degrees. If they cut dead wood 27 degrees and if they cut extremely hard dead wood, the carbide tooth chains but they have to be sharpened with a diamond wheel. I do that as well. I always keep the Rakers at 0.025. Carbide toothed chains aren't cheap btw.

 

[davidwyby]

My regimen when grinding chains is if my customers mostly cut green wood, I'll cut the teeth at 30 degrees. If they cut dead wood 27 degrees and if they cut extremely hard dead wood, the carbide tooth chains but they have to be sharpened with a diamond wheel. I do that as well. I always keep the Rakers at 0.025. Carbide toothed chains aren't cheap btw.

But what about the rest of the angles?

 

[Sidecarflip]

They remain constant but with 404, I adjust the down angle to 10 degrees Must have 100 loops in the shop presently. All getting ultrasonically cleaned presently.