Chain saw mills

[820wards]

Actually it will not stay sharp longer, theoretically it will blunt quicker than a comparative length of 3/8 as their are less teeth trying to remove more timber. You also lose a lot more timber to kerf and thus you also need more power to pull it. personally I wouldn't run 404 on anything less than an 090 for milling and realistically I would only consider it as being the go to chain for running on the likes of a lucas dedicated slabber or the like and then it would be in multiple skip setup.

I'm using .404 chain on my 134cc 820 PowerBee motor and I find it has more than enough power to cut through a slab even when it's starting to get dull.

jerry-

 

[masculator]

I'm using .404 chain on my 134cc 820 PowerBee motor and I find it has more than enough power to cut through a slab even when it's starting to get dull.

jerry-

I have no doubt it does, anything with those sort of ccs should drive it but it doesn't mean it is the optimum, or that it doesn't waste more wood.

anything under 120cc I would run 3/8. for numerous reasons.

 

[Stihl Rules]

I would like to thank all of you for all the information this is the best forum anyone could take part in.

 

[pwoller]

I have no doubt it does, anything with those sort of ccs should drive it but it doesn't mean it is the optimum, or that it doesn't waste more wood.

anything under 120cc I would run 3/8. for numerous reasons.

Which are? Why would anyone use .404 on any chainsaw mill then?

 

[Stihl Rules]

do any of you have a design of one of these I could build myself?

 

[oldsaw]

Which are? Why would anyone use .404 on any chainsaw mill then?

Because that's what they are set up for. I run 3/8 on everything because that's what I'm set up for, even when I had my 3120.

 

[splitpost]

My personal preference is 3/8 on my milling saws 660 and 880, less waste in the kerf than .404 which can add up to another board in some logs,less weight ,and have more 3/8 chain on hand than any other size

 

[Pstone0013]

Lets build a mill.

 

[Stihl Rules]

Lets build a mill.

Pretty sure we could find all the parts we need somewhere.

 

[masculator]

do any of you have a design of one of these I could build myself?

I will see if I still have the plans I had (not sure If I was able to save them when my comp had its last meltdown) they were pretty simple, but they would have been a good starting point.

If you want to get really intricate BobL is the bloke to talk to, but his mills are probably more intricate than you will need.

If I find the plans I will Pm you and you will need to send me an email address so I can send them to you.:smile2:

 

[Stihl Rules]

I will see if I still have the plans I had (not sure If I was able to save them when my comp had its last meltdown) they were pretty simple, but they would have been a good starting point.

If you want to get really intricate BobL is the bloke to talk to, but his mills are probably more intricate than you will need.

If I find the plans I will Pm you and you will need to send me an email address so I can send them to you.:smile2:

That would be greatly appreciated

 

[sixteenacrewood]

I never though of using canola for the aux oiler! I make soap and buy canola in bulk online.
here is a link
SoapersChoice.com - Product Listing
35 lbs, abound 5 gal, $37

 

[betterbuilt]

I never though of using canola for the aux oiler! I make soap and buy canola in bulk online.
here is a link
SoapersChoice.com - Product Listing
35 lbs, abound 5 gal, $37

Thanks for the link. I usually get mine from the local bakery. I think it's around $6.50 a gallon. Recently I've been using peanut oil that was on sale for like $5.00 a gallon.

I run the canola in both oilers and have never had a problem. I left it in my saws over the winter to see what it does to them and it had just barely started to thicken. I think the people that have problems with canola in their oiler are the ones who only run their saws once a year.