change carb adjustment screws

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tony marks

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does any one know if u can take the nonadjustment plugs that are where the adjustment screws use to be on saws. ive got access to old units . if i bought an new saw or other 2 cycle piece. will the old adjustment screws fit in place of the new unit thingee plugs or what ever they called.
if so, it would make it so i mite be able to buy new units. i have not had good experience with the new non adjust,carbs. just wondered.thanks for any input
 
I know for sure that on Husqui and Josa,you break the plastic cap thing,and you gonna find regular adj.screws under.Or you can use a pre-EPA carb from an old saw.
 
I saw a blower the other day with dual screws. Instead of slotted heads they were splined heads that would require a special tool. Adjustable with a special tool seems to be an improvement on fixed jetting.
 
The plastic limiter caps usually break when removed. They keep the screws from vibrating like the springs did. The idea behind a limiter cap is so the EPA can feel assured that the operator will not set the carb too rich. You can still lean the carb for high altitude. The factory will normally set the limiter at the rich side, so all you can do is lean it. The newer style carbs have finer threads than spring screw style carbs had, so be careful trying to mix them. I guess a spring in place of the limit cap would keep the screw from moving. Or maybe a little silicone once you had it set. There are special tools for removing the limit cap, but on a Walbro sometimes a drywall screw with the point broken off will work.
 
I HATE those splined screws. If it were me, I'd take my dremel, and cut a slot on the head of them to use a regular screwdriver on them for tuning.
 
Limiter caps are dumb as hell, any one who has the knowledge enough to mess with a carb can pry off a ???? piece of plastic without too much fuss. They also get all filled with saw dust goop.
 
I will help some people that want to have access to adjustment on your "limited" adjustment screws. The caps are slotted for a regular small screw driver on most saws. They are plastic and fitted over a smaller headed version of an adjustment screw. There are two, one for high and one low speed. The plastic limiting caps have a tab that sticks out and limits the adjustment to less than one turn. If the tab is turned all the way to the left (counter clockwise) the tab will be lined up with a slot that will allow the limiter to be pulled off. Trouble is that there needs to be something screwed into the cap to pull on. The best shops have a left hand wood type screw to do this. They just screw in the left hand screw and pull out the plastic tab. If you try it with a right hand screw the tab in under a place that will not allow removal. These manufacturers are sneaky. They don't want Joe average to mess with these limiter caps. I have had luck with putting a deck screw into the plastic limiter cap and turning it in until it gets a good grip. I then turn it slowly and carefully to the left to get the cap lined up with the slot to remove it. It is a little tricky but it will work. If you get that thing out grind, file, or cut that tab off. Stick it back onto the screw and you have unlimited adjustment just like the old days! Yes! Mike
 
On my MS200T I bought last year, I just pulled the roll pin out that the tab on the limiter cap hits. Faster on that saw than cutting the tab.
 
fixed carb adj screws

HiOctane said:
I know for sure that on Husqui and Josa,you break the plastic cap thing,and you gonna find regular adj.screws under.Or you can use a pre-EPA carb from an old saw.

I bought a consumer grade Poulan (18" Wildthing) 5 years ago that had those *&#@$ plastic things on the carb. The saw ran okay for a little while but it soon became obvious that it was running lean, would not idle, etc. It went back to the store as defective. The store replaced it with another identical saw and it has been fine but now I know just what to do if the need ever arises! :p

dave
 

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