Hi,
I'm going to get it back together with a gasket delete, pull the clutch and flywheel and do a vacuum, pressure test and clean. inspect, the carb.
That's all I know to do, so I don't burn the Saw up, myself?
Cleaning Up Scored Cylinder???
- Thread starter seagiant
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I'm going to get it back together with a gasket delete, pull the clutch and flywheel and do a vacuum, pressure test and clean. inspect, the carb.
That's all I know to do, so I don't burn the Saw up, myself?
I went through exactly the same thing. Picked up what looked like a brand new CS-590 with almost no compression. Pulled the muffler and the piston was toast. Looked at the cylinder and decided to try cleaning it up with polishing tape and scotchbrite. Put it back together with a new piston and it runs great, been using it for over a year now and love the saw. It's a good medium size saw with great power.
Good luck, just take your time with it till your'e happy with the finish.
Good luck, just take your time with it till your'e happy with the finish.
Yep good stuff mate, also check the fuel filter is good, fuel line, impulse line, intake boot
new carb kit too if in doubt!
Do not use ball hone for removing transfer. That is where folks screw stuff up.
I use a flapper to remove transfer. Some folks use acid for that part.
Then I use emery clothe by hand to check all is good
Then I do a quick fresh crosshatch with ball hone. This isnt needed but I like the results.
Wasnt near as bad as yours started out at. Cyl saved but used new piston kit.
I use a flapper to remove transfer. Some folks use acid for that part.
Then I use emery clothe by hand to check all is good
Then I do a quick fresh crosshatch with ball hone. This isnt needed but I like the results.
Wasnt near as bad as yours started out at. Cyl saved but used new piston kit.
Yep good stuff mate, also check the fuel filter is good, fuel line, impulse line, intake boot
Hi,
Hmmm...Thanks, I have a Foredom Tool and I think even one of those flap sand wheels.
I would think you would have to go light, with that, using it.
What you had, looks close to mine, anyway.
I believe it was Gas Monkey that put out a video a few years ago about cleaning up cyl and removing transfer. That is where I got the dowel rod/sandpaper trick from. I have tried the round flapper in a dremel as well. I have even used the acid on a rag in a dowel rod spinning it in a drill. I have also used a brake cyl hone. I have never used a ball hone on anything but an automobile engine. Mostly because I have never seen any small ones for sale and I havent looked on line to find them. If you just want to remove the transfer, the acid on a blue towel on a dowel rod works pretty good and dont cost much. It is messy and you have to be careful with eye and skin protection, and anything else that might happen to be laying on your bench. I dont like even having the acid in my shop, I have found that after using it, everything metal in my shop starts to rust, I have a gallon of it out in my wooden storage shed because my main shop is metal and I dont want it to rust down around me. However you choose to remove the transfer, it is important to replace the cross hatch pattern in the bore, I noticed in the video link the guy was using the ball hone to do that, watching drag racers put engines together, I noticed they like to use the ball hones in their engines also. The video guy said to use 320grit, the drag racers use 360grit. I use 360grit emory cloth on a dowel rod. I am not a pro saw builder, but it works for me.
Those will mess up the plating on the port chamfers.........
The original jug is junk. Use all new OEM parts. You don't seem to be taking in the physics of your futile sanding exercise. The bore and piston are designed to mate with a close tolerance....and make compression. The more metal you remove, the closer you come to compression blow-by. Ultimatelly, you are doing it all over again. Than theres precision machining a cylinder, with a wobbling who-know-what wrapped in sandpaper. Do it the right way, not the cheap way.
Have you seen a new factory cylinder? It looks like a mirror. So would you scratch up a new factory cylinder?
Hi,
YES!
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
Is this guy a troll?
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
I think your cylinder is 45mm. Mine is 49mm. Was going to offer to somehow split the cost and share the tool. Not sure if it would be practical after shipping, etc. Guessing a non-starter based on different sizes.
Hi,
Thanks, but, I think you are right.
This whole,"save the cylinder" is an exercise, in education for me. anyway!
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
Same here. If it doesn’t work I’ll be in a little more money for a piston and cylinder. This video from Tinman was inspiring (and of course very helpful) too. He has some examples of what is still useable.
Not true with nikalsil/chrome lined cylinders. The transfer can be removed with very little if any liner taken off.
The acid method does not effect the liner at all, unless there is defects that allow the acid to get to underlying aluminum.
It's not cast iron, I've done a ton of old bikes and cars that were iron,
and if you have doubts check with a bore gauge.
Here is a 036 piston, which came out of this cylinder that totally cleaned up. It did get a OEM piston...
Clean up was acid and wet/dry finger sanding w/dish detergent.
The nicasil coating is super tough
You don’t sand the cylinder out of round by cleaning up the transfer. All you are doing is cleaning the transfer off the nicasil
BrettS
ArboristSite Operative
Yes,
Ignore him/her.
Your analogy HITS Home. I was thinking along those lines and Like the confirmation...
MEBBE that is why SOME of us are reading this in Hope of enlightenment - (Grass hoppers anonymous)
I have kind of noticed that many times the cylinders with the most transfer are the ones that are salvageable ,, guessing they fried fast but not so hot. ???? I am fishing for opinions.....
