West central Florida few miles from Clearwater.
Cleaning Up Scored Cylinder???
- Thread starter seagiant
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Oh crap told you wrong, clutch remover can make with a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum and three1/4 inch bolts in a triangle pattern.got saws mixed up.
Oops Florida version
Patrick1903
ArboristSite Operative
What is overkill is your arrogance. Is it possible for you to change your username to Captain Arrogant?
Your response earlier to my post said: “You don't seem to be taking in the physics of your futile sanding exercise.” That seethes with arrogance. You are the only person in this thread that has indicated that sanding transfer from a cylinder is a “futile” effort. I agree it could be futile if the cylinder is beyond repair. But Tinman and Mastermind both show good videos of sanding transfer away. And both l say how hard it is to damage the plating.
You obviously have an opinion that is different from many others trying to repair our worthless “$200 saws”, but getting people to care about what you say when you insert your opinion like a troll, is going to be tough. I hope you don’t treat or talk to your customers that way. Though, really, arrogant people just don’t care anyway.
I would also avoid silicon carbide and only use aluminum oxide abrasives
I think you meant Mastermind, don't remember anyone named Gas Monkey on the site.
look up tree monkey aka scott kuntz
There's also Brushape, he was a hoot!
Hi,
Well, finally got the Saw to pass the pressure/vac test.
I'm now cleaning and putting it back together, had to completely remove the handle/bottom, from the crankcase to test everything and now seems good, crankseals were good.
Still need to look at the carb...
But making headway, going to do a small muffler tweak so it can flow more air...
A lot of people say this really wakes the Saw up!
Well, finally got the Saw to pass the pressure/vac test.
I'm now cleaning and putting it back together, had to completely remove the handle/bottom, from the crankcase to test everything and now seems good, crankseals were good.
Still need to look at the carb...
But making headway, going to do a small muffler tweak so it can flow more air...
A lot of people say this really wakes the Saw up!
I was talking about roughing up the nikasil more than is needed with a hone and/or coarse paper.
See my post #35 for a 036 cleaned up with acid and "finger honing", mostly using 320 grit as almost all the transfer came off with acid.
With the aluminum transfered to the jug, and what was filed off, what did you end up with for P/C clearance?
BrettS
ArboristSite Operative
What would general p/c clearances be?, I have not seen much on the internets about this.
If memory serves, around .003".
I've checked NOS OEM P/C assys with mics and bore gauges. 70cc saws are 0.002-0.0025" at the skirt. New pistons typically have ~0.005-0.006" taper with the bottom of skirt largest and crown smallest
If there is too much/lots of clearance the piston will make audible slapping sounds. Run long enough the skirt will break.
You can do a crude check with feeler gauges. If you can fit a 0.005" gauge at the skirt look for a new piston.
I used a very fine file on the piston that was for a poulan 5400 big bore kit that was made by someone back in the early 80s. I only know of one other saw that has one. If I remember correctly it was. 060 over. Anyway I tried to only take the high material off, I could feel it when I slid the file across it and I could feel the hard spots and they were usually also the high places. A light buffing with a fine pad finished it i never checked for clearance but it felt like it was the same as stock. The piston didn't want to go in and I would see where it was tight and work on that area. I still have the saw and it runs great.
Get a fine file and a gassed piston and try to fix it and get a idea of what I am trying to explain. Go slow and you will understand.
Get a fine file and a gassed piston and try to fix it and get a idea of what I am trying to explain. Go slow and you will understand.
How would clearance be "same as stock", if some of the piston was smeared onto the cylinder and some was filed off? I'd do what you suggest if a piston, any piston was NLA, and I really didn't want a proper fix. Plated cylinders on the other hand often can be salvaged.
Some people won't settle for using a badly seized piston, and adapt pistons from other engines with the same bore and close to same pin position and skirt. Some people have had manufacturers make a custom run of pistons for NLA saw pistons. Member here Leeha is one. I got a Weisco one for a 166 Dolmar from him for a friend. It was not a cheap fix but a proper and lasting one for a fine legendary saw.
Old timers with cars/truck/tractors would knurl the pistons and the raised knurls would take up the slop of a worn out, but not seized, piston that was not too far gone. At least knurling kept the pistons round. I've not heard of anyone doing this on 2-strokes.
I've rebuilt 2-strokes since the early 1970s. Lots of dirt bikes and saws. Wrenched at a Honda/Suzuki dealership a few summers. Seen good bad and ugly pistons........
As I said it felt like stock and the aluminum gets moved around and built up in different areas , I took the high places down.
You can't use a different piston when you are trying to save a very rare p and c.
I'm like you and have been messing with engines for years.
Now on this 3400 I made it a 98cc Ripper by putting a different crankshaft and a husky 395 p and c
You can't use a different piston when you are trying to save a very rare p and c.
I'm like you and have been messing with engines for years.
Now on this 3400 I made it a 98cc Ripper by putting a different crankshaft and a husky 395 p and c
Why would one sand transfer off when acid removes it without sanding?
I have no idea but I didn't know about acid when I did mine years ago. Seems like a good way if you are comfortable with acids and understand how to use them.
