Compact or sub compact tractor?

[Mustang71]

I grew up on a farm & I Understand the whys, but it seems like it is easier to set a budget & make a payment than to buy something you always have to work on.

These are different times.

It is I don't have the time to always be fixing it.

 

[hseII]

It is I don't have the time to always be fixing it.

If you can stomach it, buy as big a Tractor as you can afford, especially if you are planning to clear out some more area.

 

[rarefish383]

So why won't it dig? Like at all? I have some parts of the woods i want to clear and I'd like to scrape the top few inches.

I have no intention of trailering it anywhere unless i buy more land some day. In which case I would probably buy a dump trailer.

Mowing will be my main use and other house hold chores and driveway stone.[/QU
I haven't read all of the reply's so if this has been answered sorry. It's not built heavy enough to dig in heavy soil. It will dig in loose top soil. But, it has enough power to bend the loader arms if you try to dig in packed soil. With any loader that has digging capabilities you may run into a point where power exceeds digging. I bent the loader arms on a Hough Payloader that weighed something like 12,000 pounds, I took a bigger bite than it could handle. If your scooping loose gravel that a 10 wheel dump dropped it will scoop that fine, same with soil. If you angle the bucket down and actually try to dig a hole, it has the power to bend stuff.

 

[rarefish383]

It REALLY isn't 0 interest! The interest is added into the purchase price!

I ALWAYS get them even lower by offering to pay cash, and I mean a pretty good discount over 0 interest, so don't be fooled by that.

SR

Rob, I absolutely agree that the 0 isn't really 0. I have a 40 plus horse tractor, so that's not an issue. The BX I priced was around $16,300, with the Kubota 0 financing coming to about 300 a month. I can do 300 a month without a sweat. But, I only have about $4000 cash. If I walked into my dealer and offered him $4000 cash for a $16,000 tractor, he's going to throw me out. I might offer $14,5000 cash and get it. I might offer $11,500 with $4000 down and get a better deal. But, if I only have $4000 cash, saying make a cash offer doesn't help the guy that doesn't have cash. I'm retired with a great pension, an even greater 401, I'm eligible for social this year and don't need it. My wife wanted a new Lexus RX 350. I offered 10% of sticker cash. The sales man came back with something half way in between. I said since you can change your offer, I'm changing mine. I'll give you 12% off sticker out the door, tags, title, tax every thing. Then I said tell your sales manager if he makes me another offer, my next offer will be lower. He came back and said they couldn't do it. I said if he gave me that deal my daughter would come back in a month and by an NX for the same deal. He said OK. A month later my daughter came back and the sales lady said there was absolutely no way she could discount the car that much. I pointed at the sales manager and said go ask him. The sales lady came back and said she had never seen him sell a car that cheap, sign here. Cash does talk. My problem, after buying the Lexus, and probably a wedding this year, I only have about $4,000 in my mad money pile, and convincing my wife I need another tractor,when I have two, plus a 52" walk behind, is harder than dealing with the car dealer. So, I understand the young guy that just doesn't have the cash to dicker with.

 

[CaseyForrest]

I'm not sure I agree that interest is built into the purchase price of something if its financed. I understand people make cash deals... Shoot, I do it with my saw dealer all the time. I'm strictly cash with him because he gives me a better deal. But a cash deal benefits the seller immensely, which is why the deals are often better than financing. Paperwork add a fair bit of overhead to a business. Using a Credit Card costs a business money.....

When I purchased my B2650, I negotiated the price down and THEN offered my of JD 670 for trade. That reduced the price another $4000. IIRC, I walked out financing $18,xxx on a new 2650, loader, mid mount mower, SSQA, 60" bucket, industrial tires and pallet forks. After tax, that was a $26,000 deal and I only financed $18 something....

 

[sirbuildalot]

Sawyer Rob is correct, the 0 percent financing is a gimmick. Don't believe him ask the salesman the total amount financed and then the total amount financed without the 0 percent.

 

[CaseyForrest]

That doesn't make sense.... In order to not apply the 0%, there would have to be a rate applied, so obviously the amount financed would go up.

Is there a general consensus that the MSRP price of anything currently for sale anywhere on the planet has some ambiguous interest rate built into the price?

I'm not disputing the claim.... It could be true... But show me the numbers.....

 

[Mustang71]

I would think when they say 20 percent down and 99 a month then yes the interest is built in. You want a loader ok 129 a month. It's all prices that sound good.

 

[sirbuildalot]

If you choose the 0 percent route the price of the tractor before financing is calculated goes up. I know because when I bought my Kioti I asked about the 0 percent and there were 2 different prices, one with normal financing and one with 0 percent. They get the money either way, just depends on when you want to pay it. Like I said if you don't believe it call your local dealer and ask.

 

[Mustang71]

I read on one of these tractor sights. Zero percent financing or free loader. Home depot does the same thing 0 percent or 10 percent off or something. The interest is built in.

 

[sb47]

I've been mowing the same lot for over 40 years and one thing I figured out years ago is mowing more often will take less time.
My kabota has 3 forward gears with a high/low range. If I mow once a week and the grass is high, I have to mow in #1 high range it takes me 3 hours.
If I mow twice a week, I can run in #2 high and it only takes me an hour to mow the same spot. I can mow once a week and spend 3 hours. Or twice a week and only spend 2 hours. I save time and run hours on the tractor. It's also easier on the tractor because it's working less.

 

[CaseyForrest]

If you choose the 0 percent route the price of the tractor before financing is calculated goes up. I know because when I bought my Kioti I asked about the 0 percent and there were 2 different prices, one with normal financing and one with 0 percent. They get the money either way, just depends on when you want to pay it. Like I said if you don't believe it call your local dealer and ask.

That wasn't the case when I bought my Kubota. The deal was worked prior to any mention of financing or trade. No price changed when I took the 0% financing. The dealer took the value of my trade off the bottom line.

Maybe that's how Kioti structures their deals... I would have went elsewhere.

 

[sirbuildalot]

That wasn't the case when I bought my Kubota. The deal was worked prior to any mention of financing or trade. No price changed when I took the 0% financing. The dealer took the value of my trade off the bottom line.

Maybe that's how Kioti structures their deals... I would have went elsewhere.

Go where to Kubota? No thanks. My NX4510 with 3rd function valve, QA bucket, grapple, driveway plane, and front forks was cheaper than a Kubota L series with no implements, and is more tractor with better specs. Heavier, more lift capacity, more features standard, better 3 point capacity, Etc. The Kubota M series is more comparable specs wise, but is WAY more $$. I priced several brands and Kioti was the best deal I found. Also doesn't make much sense that a salesman would agree to a price before knowing how your paying. That'd be like me agreeing to take a job without knowing my hourly rate or salary.

 

[hseII]

Go where to Kubota? No thanks. My NX4510 with 3rd function valve, QA bucket, grapple, driveway plane, and front forks was cheaper than a Kubota L series with no implements, and is more tractor with better specs. Heavier, more lift capacity, more features standard, better 3 point capacity, Etc. The Kubota M series is more comparable specs wise, but is WAY more $$. I priced several brands and Kioti was the best deal I found. Also doesn't make much sense that a salesman would agree to a price before knowing how your paying. That'd be like me agreeing to take a job without knowing my hourly rate or salary.

While I believe there is some “cushion” built in, when I bought my Kubota, the price was agreed upon before payment details were worked out.

When I bought my M7060HD12, I also looked hard at Deere & MF, as we’ve done a lot of business, over 15 Deere & Ferguson pieces in the family in the last 20 years.

The compatible Deere is made in India & the MF In some EU country.

Not that there is anything wrong with that, but after weighing my Options, Kubota was the clear winner for me.

YMMV

 

[Mustang71]

I'm not set on a brand but if I were to buy one of the popular ones it would be a Kubota over a john deere. But I'm really interested in the Ls tractor. Also with a new holland dealer that sells kioti I will look there too. Kubota is the clear winner in the pole. I'm honestly surprised no one voted john deere.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Go where to Kubota? No thanks. My NX4510 with 3rd function valve, QA bucket, grapple, driveway plane, and front forks was cheaper than a Kubota L series with no implements, and is more tractor with better specs. Heavier, more lift capacity, more features standard, better 3 point capacity, Etc. The Kubota M series is more comparable specs wise, but is WAY more $$. I priced several brands and Kioti was the best deal I found.

I don't want to get into a pissing match about brand. It also wasn't about value between brands. My comment was more about how Kioti chooses to handle their deals based on what you said. If my Kubota salesman had told me there's an up-charge for 0% financing, I would have walked. That would be dishonest and likely illegal.

Also doesn't make much sense that a salesman would agree to a price before knowing how your paying. That'd be like me agreeing to take a job without knowing my hourly rate or salary.

Every new vehicle Ive purchased using financing has been exactly that. I walk in, hash out a deal and have a check from our Credit Union to fill out on the spot. I NEVER discuss how I am going to pay prior to the deal being worked. Why would I put the ball in the salesmans court? Its my money..... If it matters to a salesman/dealership whether I am paying cash, using their financing department or an outside institution, if that effects the price of the vehicle, Ill go elsewhere. Doesn't matter what I am buying. Adjusting the price upwards to reflect financing is immoral and unethical. Shoot... I wont even purchase from people that want me to cover the 3% PayPal charges.... Not only is it a violation of the TOS for using PayPal, its unethical.

All that being said, I get the feeling you feel like I'm attacking you. I'm not. Id like to see some real world numbers on there being 2 different prices for an item... You said that's how your deal worked and I wasn't there, so Ill take you at your word. That doesn't mean that's how it works universally....

 

[CaseyForrest]

I'm not set on a brand but if I were to buy one of the popular ones it would be a Kubota over a john deere. But I'm really interested in the Ls tractor. Also with a new holland dealer that sells kioti I will look there too. Kubota is the clear winner in the pole. I'm honestly surprised no one voted john deere.

I looked at Deere and Kubota, those are the 2 dealers closest to me and I didnt want to have to travel if something needed to be fixed.

Between those 2, there aren't really any large enough differences to pick one over they other. They are fairly comparable. One has something the other doesnt and vice versa.... What it came down to was price out the door. This includes base price, negotiated price, deals on implements at the time of purchase etc. The Kubota took that by about $5000 compared to a like equipped Deere. I ALMOST went with a 3038E Deere, but didn't like the concessions I was making over the 2650.

 

[sb47]

I looked at Deere and Kubota, those are the 2 dealers closest to me and I didnt want to have to travel if something needed to be fixed.

Between those 2, there aren't really any large enough differences to pick one over they other. They are fairly comparable. One has something the other doesnt and vice versa.... What it came down to was price out the door. This includes base price, negotiated price, deals on implements at the time of purchase etc. The Kubota took that by about $5000 compared to a like equipped Deere. I ALMOST went with a 3038E Deere, but didn't like the concessions I was making over the 2650.

My Kobota is 33 years old, It's been in the shop once. I don't think service will be an issue.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I believe those are the same physical size- why buybthe smaller one with less hp?

The 2501 is the same as the 3301 and 3901, but it's been detuned to get under the 25 HP emissions cutoff. The 2501 has no DPF. It's actually the same engine that used to make 34 HP in the L3400. People like them a lot. They're cheap, simple, and heavy enough to do some actual work. If you're running a bush hog or a snowblower or something that really used PTO HP, then it's probably not the right choice, but for loader work and draft work it can be a great choice, especially if you're not in a hurry.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I know nothing of these.

Tractor 4wd with trailor
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/hvo/d/tractor-4wd-with-trailor/6531680559.html

They are re-branded Kioti's, decent made compacts...

SR