Complete Stihl 041AV Super step-by-step rebuild - very pic heavy! (for 041 newbies)

[glock37]

Fantastic thread. I'm getting one tomorrow and these photos and comments are just what I need to work on it. Thanks a lot!

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/190402.htm

Check out this thread too

enjoy it its a fun rebuild

heres a 041 i just got done with View attachment 278775

 

[arrow13]

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/190402.htm

Check out this thread too

enjoy it its a fun rebuild

heres a 041 i just got done with View attachment 278775

Mighty fine work! Thanks for the additional thread info too. Can't wait to get my hands on that saw tonight.

 

[jh35]

Great thread. I just got a 041 Farm Boss. My first Stihl. Anyway I've read up alot on the oiler situation as mine runs great but leaks bar oil into the cylinder. I have ordered the grommet /seal that goes around the oiler but it sounds like it may need o-rings inside the oiler. Does anyone have the part #'s or an exploded view to show what I need? Things to watch out for?

Thank you.
Jeff

 

[arrow13]

Parts number request

Great thread. I just got a 041 Farm Boss. My first Stihl. Anyway I've read up alot on the oiler situation as mine runs great but leaks bar oil into the cylinder. I have ordered the grommet /seal that goes around the oiler but it sounds like it may need o-rings inside the oiler. Does anyone have the part #'s or an exploded view to show what I need? Things to watch out for?

Thank you.
Jeff

Go to the Beg for Manuals thread and request a manual and parts list (IPL). Someone is sure to provide you with what you need. Good luck!
Arrow13

 

[jh35]

Go to the Beg for Manuals thread and request a manual and parts list (IPL). Someone is sure to provide you with what you need. Good luck!
Arrow13

Thank you. I did just that and got a quick response. This place is great!

 

[promac850]

I refreshed one for a friend of mine, and now they use the old 041 (non AV) all the time and the MS441 sits since it's too damn heavy and cuts about the same.

Did a few tweaks... increased compression with the thinnest Fel-Pro karo-pack as the base gasket, (lowers squish from .041" <= !!!! to .030") and then cleaned up the ports, then polished the top of the piston. General refresh stuff. Also had to throw a new muffler on the old girl too, and new fuel lines were a must. Let me know how it works for you. Retuned and tested, then sent her back home.

Now that guy wants me to tinker with his 026 Super Farm Boss. (not sure if it is yet, since the clutch cover or air filter cover may have been replaced, never heard of a Super being set up as a Farm Boss too)

I figure I'll do real basic stuff. Nothing fancy. Certainly not messing with the transfers.

 

[wolfgang4999]

Hm, well this is about the fifth or sixth 041 I've worked on and all of them so far had that spacer bushing against the shoulder of the crank. This Super is using a rim-drive drum that I bought after the fact and the bushing was not part of that kit, it was already on the crank; the rest were all spur drives and they all needed the bushing too. My 045AV is the same way. So I dunno. I do agree though that there have been many minor variations on these saws over their 40-odd year lifespan so I doubt I've seen all of them

I think the other muffler/side cover style you're thinking of is the non-AV one like this one of mine:

They won't fit the AV models because of the two extra mounting tabs on the bottom of the AV mufflers though.

Do you mean the rear handle is weak where it mounts to the cylinder, or at the rear pivot point where both sections are mated through the rubber AV bushings? If the latter, the biggest thing to keep in mind is to not over-torque the carriage bolt that goes through those pieces. Since the rear section fits around the AV bushings like a "Y", if you put too much torque to it it will just compress the rubber bushings and crack the "Y" since Magnesium isn't exactly very flexible.

The main problem I've seen with the tensioners is the bolt getting bent by people trying to over-torque it either with the bar nuts still tight or with the bar already at the end of its adjustment channel so it can't move any further. That, and worn, rounded-off nubs that just slip rather than engage the tensioner hole in the bar.

The Fairbanks-Morse starters on these are pretty sensitive to dirt and oil. If the friction washers get oily or shined up they won't engage the shoes properly and it'll slip. It's an easy fix once you're accustomed to putting them together. I have to build a starter for the 61cc 041AV I'm working on this afternoon (last one of four, finally!), so will take a couple pictures of that as well along with the oiler.

 

[wolfgang4999]

why arent the images and pics showing?????

 

[wolfgang4999]

probably a great article if the images would show

 

[pioneerguy600]

This is a very old thread made back before the site was hacked and a whole lot of the posted picts were lost during that ,hack.

 

[Slarti]

Greetings, hope someone can help me with the Stihl 041AV Super and the Husqvarna 55 Rancher shown below (The Echo runs fine).

Both the Stihl and Husky came with our new house. The previous owner used them to clear a lot for an addition to the house and left them behind when we bought the house. The Husky starts up cold but stalls when it warms up, will restart for a second then quits. The Stihl will not start at all.

Are they worth fixing and, if so, where to begin? I use the Echo for felling and bucking but I was thinking of using the Stihl, in particular, for ripping some cedar boards as it's got a little bigger engine than the other two.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.