Complete Stihl 041AV Super step-by-step rebuild - very pic heavy! (for 041 newbies)

belgian · Feb 17, 2010

jkilov said:
Hi, I'm new to the forum but not new to 041s.

Mine is an early model, one of the first AVs to hit the market. Couple of things I'd like to add:

- The clutch spacer you're talking about was not part of my saw. It came added with the "new"-style clutch drum kit which had a wider sprocket than the original, hence something was needed to space the clutch further out.

I am not sure about this. I've always seen the spacer Brad indicated.

- Some had no muffler guards, just an extended bar cover that wrapped around the muffler.

True. Those were the early models. There have been plenty of small variations in this model afterwards.

-

Plug hole has only a few threads which can easly strip.

Can't confirm, never experienced a problem on this point

- Rear handle mount is a weak point, specially when operators step on it like elefants

Quite through, especially the AV version. I need a few rear bases to complete a few saws.

- Chain tensioner mechanism likes to develop slack over time

It's a relative small tensioner, but not really a problem if you take care.

- A few parts of the scissor starting mechnism like to act up

fairly true with all FB type starters. The later models had the new style pawls.

- Air filters get dirty real quick, or is it just me?

quite true. All saws I found have very dirty air filters. You need to clean them often.

Bottom line, it's a great saw with a few detail flaws. A bit too heavy and slow for modern standards but i actually still use it.

Don't forget that this model is nearly 40 years old. It was a heck of a firewood saw in the old days, compared to other saws. The main weak point for me is the number of seals/parts used between carb and cylinder. They are a major risk for an air leak.

Brmorgan · Feb 17, 2010

Assembled the herd today

Well I got the fourth and final (for now) 041 in the lineup built today. Stayed in the basement 'til 11PM getting it done - you guys know how it is sometimes. Anyway it's built out of all the second-best parts I had left over. It's mechanically just as solid as the others, it's just missing a fair bit more paint and has some breakage in behind the clutch from chain contact. I had to go to a plumbing shop to find 7/8" rubber hose for its larger-diameter handle though; the Grote heater hose goes right from 3/4" to 1", at least at my local suppliers. And the plumbing hose is $3.50/ft as opposed to about $1.25 for the heater hose.

I got a few extra feet for my 090 handle too.

Anyway here's the lineup:

L to R: 61cc 041, 61cc 041 AV, 72cc 041 AV Super, and lastly 041 G. I'm really liking how that fresh rubber looks on them.

The two little guys have 20" 3/8" setups, the Super a 25" 3/8" skip chain, and I put a 28" 3/8" skip on the geardrive.

I might be going to cut a bit of firewood tomorrow (weather permitting), and if so I'll be taking the Super for a good run; I just wish I had an extra 8-pin rim for the skip chain that's on it - it'll have plenty enough power to pull it. Not sure there will be anything worth cutting with the Geardrive, but it'll be along for the trip just in case.

parrisw · Feb 17, 2010

Nice work Brad!! Looks good.

If ya need any small misc parts let me know, I just came into allot of parts.

Brmorgan · Feb 17, 2010

Well actually a good non-AV top cover is about all I need. I borrowed one from my friend so I could take that picture.

I have to take one more look around his parts, but I don't think he has one. I'd really really love to find a "G" top cover but I'm not getting my hopes up. When I assembled this last one I also noticed a couple chips in the chrome on in the cylinder above the exhaust port and right in the corner around the squish band, so I'm on the lookout for a near-free good cylinder too. I'm pretty sure I can get one of those from my friend though since I gave him back a spare I had, thinking this one was good. This one runs just fine though, for now.

Just for kicks I started all four in the basement shop for just a few seconds after taking those photos. Sounded like a Hells' Angels rally! I'm going to try to get a video of all four at idle tomorrow. I could throw the 090, 045, and 031 in just for fun too maybe... Hmm... This might take some organizing!

belgian · Feb 17, 2010

Brmorgan said:
. I'm really liking how that fresh rubber looks on them.

:agree2: I need to find myself some hose like that !!
Nice lineup too !

bigbadbob · Feb 17, 2010

Nice work, nice lineup. :cheers:

Bob

howellhandmade · Feb 17, 2010

Man, great job. Pictures and text are super clear -- very good teaching and it's really generous of you to take the time. Makes me want a 41. I have one question, though -- is there a temp rating on the nylon locking nuts? I'd be concerned that the high temperature would melt the nylon and you'd be left with plain ol' nuts.

Jack

parrisw · Feb 17, 2010

Brmorgan said:
Well actually a good non-AV top cover is about all I need. I borrowed one from my friend so I could take that picture. I have to take one more look around his parts, but I don't think he has one. I'd really really love to find a "G" top cover but I'm not getting my hopes up. When I assembled this last one I also noticed a couple chips in the chrome on in the cylinder above the exhaust port and right in the corner around the squish band, so I'm on the lookout for a near-free good cylinder too. I'm pretty sure I can get one of those from my friend though since I gave him back a spare I had, thinking this one was good. This one runs just fine though, for now.

Just for kicks I started all four in the basement shop for just a few seconds after taking those photos. Sounded like a Hells' Angels rally! I'm going to try to get a video of all four at idle tomorrow. I could throw the 090, 045, and 031 in just for fun too maybe... Hmm... This might take some organizing!

Hey, sorry no covers for 041, I only have a few covers, I think for 026 series? Not sure yet, just guessing. I got a new 066 starter cover with elastostart if needed.

I have lots of misc parts, some ignitions, carb stuff ect.......

Brmorgan · Feb 17, 2010

howellhandmade said:
Man, great job. Pictures and text are super clear -- very good teaching and it's really generous of you to take the time. Makes me want a 41. I have one question, though -- is there a temp rating on the nylon locking nuts? I'd be concerned that the high temperature would melt the nylon and you'd be left with plain ol' nuts.

Jack

Well it wouldn't be the first time for that. LOL.

Actually I'm not sure. It's pretty high though, but I guess time will tell. These old gals don't run nearly as hot as the newer saws though. Plenty of fuel and lower RPMs with less restrictive mufflers.

djmercer1 · Feb 17, 2010

Brmorgan said:
Well it wouldn't be the first time for that. LOL.

Actually I'm not sure. It's pretty high though, but I guess time will tell. These old gals don't run nearly as hot as the newer saws though. Plenty of fuel and lower RPMs with less restrictive mufflers.

their good up to about 150 degc..... there are opther types of self locking nuts like spring beams or distorted threads if heat is an issue...

djmercer1 · Feb 17, 2010

Brmorgan said:
.......
Do you mean the rear handle is weak where it mounts to the cylinder, or at the rear pivot point where both sections are mated through the rubber AV bushings? If the latter, the biggest thing to keep in mind is to not over-torque the carriage bolt that goes through those pieces. Since the rear section fits around the AV bushings like a "Y", if you put too much torque to it it will just compress the rubber bushings and crack the "Y" since Magnesium isn't exactly very flexible.

The main problem I've seen with the tensioners is the bolt getting bent by people trying to over-torque it either with the bar nuts still tight or with the bar already at the end of its adjustment channel so it can't move any further. That, and worn, rounded-off nubs that just slip rather than engage the tensioner hole in the bar.

.......

shouldnt really if youre a little strong on the wrench when tightening the rear av mount because there should be a steel sleevespacer that puts stress into the carriage bolt threads---this is what prevents the nut from rattling off and prevent for closing the 2 ears...

as for the tensioner, thats a problem with all saws and those that cant tighten a chain properly, there should be very little tension on it, infact it is possible to properly tighten the chain without using it....

dswensen · Feb 17, 2010

How about some more 041AV advice?

Nice 041s! Thanks for the great pics and lessons

I have an 041 AV just like this one. I don't have a Stihl flywheel puller and can't get my flywheel off. Don't want to destroy the threads by pounding. Is there a better secret?

SpaayDawg · Feb 17, 2010

dswensen said:
Nice 041s! Thanks for the great pics and lessons

I have an 041 AV just like this one. I don't have a Stihl flywheel puller and can't get my flywheel off. Don't want to destroy the threads by pounding. Is there a better secret?

The first 041 flywheel I took off I used a regular "bolt-type" puller. I got some bolts that would fit into where the 3 bolts that hold the fins to the flywheel thread into, about 2 inches long. Then I used various washers to make sure that the small heads of the long bolts didn't pull through the slots in the puller. Turn away on the puller and it should pop right off.

If I may, why is it you need the flywheel off? The ignition system can be tuned with the flywheel in place if need be, FYI.

Brmorgan · Feb 18, 2010

Well if you don't have access to a puller, one method that might work if it isn't stuck on too hard is to remove the flywheel nut, and then thread it back on only one or two turns. This way it'll sit on the end of the crank and protrude out farther than the crank end AND the flywheel by about 3/16". Then hold on to the flywheel tight with one hand and give the nut a couple good whacks with a hard rubber or wooden mallet with the other. It's a bit of a trick to get good at, but it's how I removed these 041 flywheels because it's a lot faster and easier than setting up a 3-way puller, and I'm in the same boat as you with not having a proper Stihl threaded puller on hand. It would help to have a third arm if you have a spare person handy, that's for sure. If it's being stubborn though you're better off giving it more rapid lighter hits than to start hitting it harder - you don't want to shear the threads off the crank AND nut.

jkilov · Feb 18, 2010

Well I'm pretty sure the early 041AVs came without the spacer and a different clutch and cover setup. I've had 2 of them and the first had none, 2nd had it.

Managed to find my musty old parts list and it does'nt indicate that ring which is listed for the new one (part 16 in newer IPL)