Considering an OWB

[hanko]

I have a Woodmaster. It has been in operation for 6 years now and I have had no problems. You can almost drive yourself nuts trying to make up your mind on this stuff, but there are a couple of things that I think are a must. 1. Forced air ( both front and back are best) 2. A decent way to clean ash (a grate and air pocket inside works pretty well for me) 3. A big door. Also, do not go by the specs. for heating (square footage). Get the biggest stove you can afford and fill it half as much. I can tell you that the stove you quoted (price) is too small for what you want to do. I have in-floor heating in my basement, garage floor and tiled areas of the house and have heat exchangers in two forced air furnaces. I heat about 3300 sq ft. I bought the next-to-the-biggest Woodmaster and have never been sorry (even though the dealer tried to talk me out of it). Anyway Hanko had some great points also. I have never heard of the stove he's talking about but I have not cared in 6 years either. If I can be of any help, let me know at [email protected]

hey tony. I saw these boilers in a magizene my dad gave me when he got back from drummond island. Ive really looked into these, check there web site, see ya Henry

 

[HUSKYMAN]

I just installed a Woodmaster 4400 about 6 weeks ago and it has worked well. Several members here have Woodmasters and I am not aware of any problems. CB is also a good unit, but was $1000 more here for the same size unit.

A large door is very important. I chose not to get an ash auger because I did not want any corrosion from the auger area. With the large door on the Woodmaster all you need is a hoe and a shovel to clean the ashes about once a week or so.

Make sure you have a source for free or super cheap wood, I would not run a wood boiler if I had to pay for the wood to be brought to me.

 

[mschoff]

owb

Hi I have bought a shavfer owb they are out of ARK they have been in bussiness for 35 years builing stoves. the one I am getting will heat up to 4000 sq ft new 4277.00 and you buy all the tubing and hardware I will be heating the house forced air my hot water heater elec and my garage which is all about 3600 sq ft and they have stoves for all needs they said. may have used ones ? there # is 1-828-683-0025 ask for ben good luck with your burner

 

[Redwood123]

Odwb

Hello Guys, I have been heating with a OTWB for 7 years now and agree with many of the post here.
I heat approx. 3400 SQ/FT and I fill my stove twice a day in cold weather down to 0 F.
I clean about once a month and have found that the wood you use makes a big difference. For instance apple seems to break down sooner and the ash will coat the char and leave me with more unburned coals.
I have burned a lot of wood and ash or oak seem to work the best as far as burning to fly ash and not filling up the stove.
As far as how much time I spend? However long it takes you to throw in 5-6 pieces of wood and close the door.
I have a water temp gage in the house so I don't need to check the fire as I can read the temp and monitor the draft inducer from my living room. A very nice feature that I installed myself.:bang:

 

[windthrown]

Welcome aboard AS, Redwood123!

 

[curdy]

I have a water temp gage in the house so I don't need to check the fire as I can read the temp and monitor the draft inducer from my living room. A very nice feature that I installed myself.:bang:

Welcome to the site and thanks for the info. I'd love to hear some details and see some pics of that modification you made!

 

[beerman6]

yea,what he said.

+1

 

[curdy]

How does this sound?

-Used WoodMaster
-5 years old
-Rated for 5000 sq ft (4400 or whatever model that was called 5 yrs ago)
-100' of hi-temp PEX (uninsulated, but my underground run will only be about 20', so this stuff won't cover that, but will come in handy for the indoor portion rather than shelling out more for copper.)
-All the heat exchangers and what not.
-$3000

Not a confirmed offer at this point, but seems like it may have a chance. Talked to the guy last night. Sounded very nice and down to earth. He's relocating, but keeping the land where the owb is now. He doesn't see much point in trying to take it with him, so he's looking to sell.

Its a couple hours from my place, but I have a 1-ton truck and a free Saturday for a good deal. There's a WoodMaster service location near there, so I figured I'd call them and toss them a couple of bucks to go out and look at it and report back what they think.

Thoughts???

 

[gtstang462002]

How does this sound?

-Used WoodMaster
-5 years old
-Rated for 5000 sq ft (4400 or whatever model that was called 5 yrs ago)
-100' of hi-temp PEX (uninsulated, but my underground run will only be about 20', so this stuff won't cover that, but will come in handy for the indoor portion rather than shelling out more for copper.)
-All the heat exchangers and what not.
-$3000

Not a confirmed offer at this point, but seems like it may have a chance. Talked to the guy last night. Sounded very nice and down to earth. He's relocating, but keeping the land where the owb is now. He doesn't see much point in trying to take it with him, so he's looking to sell.

Its a couple hours from my place, but I have a 1-ton truck and a free Saturday for a good deal. There's a WoodMaster service location near there, so I figured I'd call them and toss them a couple of bucks to go out and look at it and report back what they think.

Thoughts???

Looks to be a decent deal as long as everything is on the up and up... There will be more items needed surely to complete the removal and re-installation into your place.... (Things always break)

 

[bowtechmadman]

Sounds like a fair price if the woodburner is in good shape...most importantly the firebox. Look for cracks, corrosion, rust etc...
I'd want to also make sure the pump/or pumps operate as well as the electronics.

Redwood where in Michigan are you? I'd like to hear more about how you have the temps visible from inside.

 

[windthrown]

Sounds like a good deal. I narrowed down my search to CB and WM, and we went with CB. Look it over. Taco pumps are replacable, and likely after some years of use and a move. PEX works great inside too. I have the buried insulated and sleeved section outside, insulated lines inside running through the attic, and into the Hx copper fittings.

 

[curdy]

Yeah the guy said he put in the additive (just anti-freeze right?) to resist rust every year.

But still, I'd rather have a pro that's used to looking at them check it out and give his opinion.

 

[Husky137]

Yeah the guy said he put in the additive (just anti-freeze right?) to resist rust every year.

No, probably a corrosion inhibitor.

 

[curdy]

OK, I'll make sure to ask more specifically what he used.

Called my insurance company they said they're OK with a 10' set back OR what is specified by the manufacturer. Sounds pretty standard to me.

 

[dimanager]

I would go at least 50 feet, 100 if you can. Anything closer and when the wind swirls you will get smoke all around the house.

Sam

 

[curdy]

I could place it farther back, but I'd be putting in a less desirable spot...plus, I'd be fighting some crazy piping we have for a storm water system (township forced us to have put in for our addition). The spot I have picked out would avoid all that.

How hard would it be to increase the length of the stack? I bet that would help some.

 

[dimanager]

That should not be to difficult, might need some extra support. I remember hearing some stoves need a certain length on the stack, to give a better draft. Be sure to check with watever stove you go with.

Sam

 

[curdy]

Yeah, I was thinking I could have a couple small cable supports attached to it. Those are details to handle later though.

 

[windthrown]

OK, I'll make sure to ask more specifically what he used.

Called my insurance company they said they're OK with a 10' set back OR what is specified by the manufacturer. Sounds pretty standard to me.

CB only calls for 6' setback from the door. I put it about 10 ft from the carport on the far side of the house, just past the overhang of the roof, and it is fine. Depends on the stack and air flow around your house though. Our stack is well above the roofline, and there is a natrual draft away from the house along a streambed. The house is located on top of a hill as well (old leveled logging deck, actually). I like not having to go too far to throw wood into it. That side of the house is usually protected from the wind and rain, but not always. We rarely get much smoke around the house.

 

[windthrown]

Yeah the guy said he put in the additive (just anti-freeze right?) to resist rust every year.

But still, I'd rather have a pro that's used to looking at them check it out and give his opinion.

You do not want to use antifreeze. Antifreeze has less heat capacity than plain water. As someone else mentioned, you want rust-inhibitor. Basically keeps the pH and acid demand at a level that the steel will not oxidize. The boiler heat usually keeps the lines from freezing, and if the boiler goes out, the Hx of the domestic hot water heater will reverse and keep the lines from freezing. Also make sure to bury your lines below the typical freezing level in the soil (if the ground freezes where you live).