Depth gauge tool

Wesspur
Rugged made
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chipper1 said:
Yes, or no :laughing: .
Whatever works for you, just do it consistently on the chain you are working on to get the best results. If you change things up the rest of that chain will need to be done the same way.
When a chain is running well I don't even use the guides, but after I hit something and I have damaged cutters that need to be taken back further than the others, or the chain isn't cutting true then I'll use the guide. Until then I just watch the chips and make sure they look good. If I pick up a saw that's not mine and I notice the rakers are shiny on the top front, as long as the owner doesn't mind, I'll file until the shine is gone and run it. I also like to keep the same angle as the progressive guide gives, this way I can see the length from front to back of the raker that has been filed(the flat spot where you filed), if the cutters are all the same length, then the rakers should be too.
Much of chain filing in the field is precision guesswork, then when you true one up at the house, it will need to be fine tuned in the field to optimize cutting, or just buy a new chain and be happy with whatever it does out of the box. If you're going to just run a new chain out of the box I suggest it be the newer husky x-cut chain, it's the fastest and smoothest chain out of the box that I've ran, although I have not run stihls new hexa chain, I'm sure it cuts fast and smooth as well.
Click to expand...
Where you find the hexa chain at? Been looking for a loop and haven't been able to find any state side.n
 
5155 said:
I bought one of the husky roller guides after reading the hype, watching the informercials, etc.
It is the most useless tool in the box.
I don't mind gadgets, but I need to sharpen and cut wood.
Did get a couple new files out of the kit.
The file handle is a joke too.

Before the fan club explodes, I like all brands,, that work.
Click to expand...
Sounds like operator error.
As far as it being the most useless tool in the toolbox...
Do you have the proper roller guide for you're chain size. There are also new guides for doing the husky x-cut chains, and the guides may or may not fit/work on other brands of chain.
Are you aware that there are arrows that need to be to point to the bar tip when installing the roller guide.

I'm not part of the fan club, but I do use them on occasion with no problems.
 
sean donato said:
Where you find the hexa chain at? Been looking for a loop and haven't been able to find any state side.n
Click to expand...
You'll need to reread my comment, I've never ran it.
While I'd like to try it I can grind a square chain up any time I need to and I have plenty of files if I feel like doing that for square, but bit don't that often (although I have one I will probably do soon.
I think one of the neat things about the hexa chain/ file is that it removes the gullet at the same time as sharpening the cutter, and because the side of the file that rests on/in the bottom of the gullet is smooth it seems as though it should be much easier to use than a double bevel file. Because of this the cutter profile will change a good bit from the front to the back, but since it's not filing right into the corner I don't think it will effect the way it cuts much, just not sure about that.
Do you want me to get you hooked up with someone to buy them from, sure I could use some of my super sleuthing skills to find some :cool:.
 
chipper1 said:
You'll need to reread my comment, I've never ran it.
While I'd like to try it I can grind a square chain up any time I need to and I have plenty of files if I feel like doing that for square, but bit don't that often (although I have one I will probably do soon.
I think one of the neat things about the hexa chain/ file is that it removes the gullet at the same time as sharpening the cutter, and because the side of the file that rests on/in the bottom of the gullet is smooth it seems as though it should be much easier to use than a double bevel file. Because of this the cutter profile will change a good bit from the front to the back, but since it's not filing right into the corner I don't think it will effect the way it cuts much, just not sure about that.
Do you want me to get you hooked up with someone to buy them from, sure I could use some of my super sleuthing skills to find some :cool:.
Click to expand...
Nah I don't want/ need one that bad. Been very happy with the x cut. Just wanted to compare.
 
cutter0103 said:
For example if you see in my pics I added to this thread as an example, I have one pic of how the raker sits in the slot. Is that OK? Correct placement for that stihl chain
Click to expand...
Sorry I should also add to say that when I got the gauge new out of the box, the raker didn't even come close to the slot when lining the gauge up right on the tooth/bar. That's when I looked online and saw one guy said you can file part of tail part outward so you can move side to side, so you can get the raker in the slot someway
chipper1 said:
Yes, or no :laughing: .
Whatever works for you, just do it consistently on the chain you are working on to get the best results. If you change things up the rest of that chain will need to be done the same way.
When a chain is running well I don't even use the guides, but after I hit something and I have damaged cutters that need to be taken back further than the others, or the chain isn't cutting true then I'll use the guide. Until then I just watch the chips and make sure they look good. If I pick up a saw that's not mine and I notice the rakers are shiny on the top front, as long as the owner doesn't mind, I'll file until the shine is gone and run it. I also like to keep the same angle as the progressive guide gives, this way I can see the length from front to back of the raker that has been filed(the flat spot where you filed), if the cutters are all the same length, then the rakers should be too.
Much of chain filing in the field is precision guesswork, then when you true one up at the house, it will need to be fine tuned in the field to optimize cutting, or just buy a new chain and be happy with whatever it does out of the box. If you're going to just run a new chain out of the box I suggest it be the newer husky x-cut chain, it's the fastest and smoothest chain out of the box that I've ran, although I have not run stihls new hexa chain, I'm sure it cuts fast and smooth as well.
Click to expand...
Haha I know it's not black and white, yes or no, but for the sake of how the tool/gauge works as long as I get the raker somewhere in the slot/window and keep it consistent, I should be good. Thats how the tool works..
 
cutter0103 said:
Sorry I should also add to say that when I got the gauge new out of the box, the raker didn't even come close to the slot when lining the gauge up right on the tooth/bar. That's when I looked online and saw one guy said you can file part of tail part outward so you can move side to side, so you can get the raker in the slot someway

Haha I know it's not black and white, yes or no, but for the sake of how the tool/gauge works as long as I get the raker somewhere in the slot/window and keep it consistent, I should be good. Thats how the tool works..
Click to expand...
Correct, except it still may need some fine tuning, especially on a chain that isn't made to use the guide and using a modded guide.
Have you tried any of the chains you've used it on yet.
 
chipper1 said:
Correct, except it still may need some fine tuning, especially on a chain that isn't made to use the guide and using a modded guide.
Have you tried any of the chains you've used it on yet.
Click to expand...
Right I totally agree on the fine tuning, it's just a guide but now I have the gist of it and feel more confident thank you chipper. Haha no I wanted to get a fellow cutters opinion b4 I did something crazy and created major kickback on my saw. Will try soon and get back to you.
 
chipper1 said:
Correct, except it still may need some fine tuning, especially on a chain that isn't made to use the guide and using a modded guide.
Have you tried any of the chains you've used it on yet.
Click to expand...
It's like tgis one guy on YouTube buckin billy ray, he's very descriptive in his explanation how to use these things, so I think pretty seriously of what he says. He's like "no ,no,no it must go this way, Not this way, exactly this way in the gauge" , and I'm like dam.. mine doesn't fit exactly like his does on whatever chain he's using.
 
cutter0103 said:
It's like tgis one guy on YouTube buckin billy ray, he's very descriptive in his explanation how to use these things, so I think pretty seriously of what he says. He's like "no ,no,no it must go this way, Not this way, exactly this way in the gauge" , and I'm like dam.. mine doesn't fit exactly like his does on whatever chain he's using.
Click to expand...
Haha chipper knows what the deal is
 
cutter0103 said:
Right I totally agree on the fine tuning, it's just a guide but now I have the gist of it and feel more confident thank you chipper. Haha no I wanted to get a fellow cutters opinion b4 I did something crazy and created major kickback on my saw. Will try soon and get back to you.
Click to expand...
You can have kickback issues with most any full chisel non safety chain if you don't know how to keep the top front quadrant of the bar tip off the wood unless you know what the heck you're doing.
Run it and let us know how it cuts.
cutter0103 said:
It's like tgis one guy on YouTube buckin billy ray, he's very descriptive in his explanation how to use these things, so I think pretty seriously of what he says. He's like "no ,no,no it must go this way, Not this way, exactly this way in the gauge" , and I'm like dam.. mine doesn't fit exactly like his does on whatever chain he's using.
Click to expand...
Billy knows a lot, but much of what he does is for show. He started square filing last yr, now he's teaching as though he's been doing it all his life... I watch many of his videos, because usually there's something I can learn as I've not been in this game nearly as long as he has and I'll never get to the level of the experience he's has falling.
One thing he has said is to do it, try it for yourself to find out what works, and I agree wholeheartedly with that premise.
I have a saying that applies to this quite well "what works for one, doesn't work for everyone ". Maybe we should modify it for this direct application and say, what guide works for one chain doesn't work for every chain; and you could even add, but most likely it will get you close lol.
 
chipper1 said:
You can have kickback issues with most any full chisel non safety chain if you don't know how to keep the top front quadrant of the bar tip off the wood unless you know what the heck you're doing.
Run it and let us know how it cuts.

Billy knows a lot, but much of what he does is for show. He started square filing last yr, now he's teaching as though he's been doing it all his life... I watch many of his videos, because usually there's something I can learn as I've not been in this game nearly as long as he has and I'll never get to the level of the experience he's has falling.
One thing he has said is to do it, try it for yourself to find out what works, and I agree wholeheartedly with that premise.
I have a saying that applies to this quite well "what works for one, doesn't work for everyone ". Maybe we should modify it for this direct application and say, what guide works for one chain doesn't work for every chain; and you could even add, but most likely it will get you close lol.
Click to expand...
Well said! If I could give 2 thumbs up I would. Definitely going to cut 2moro and see what happens. Thanks
 
cutter0103 said:
Hi again, this is in reference to the husky plate gauge again. Ones that i modified, or filed so it would fit sittimg on my stihl chain. I am now seeing other videos saying the raker IS supposed to peak out through the little window, but not exactly in the middle like I thought, but to the sides in that little window. Tired of mixed answers on how the raker is supposed to pop out of that little window from all these YouTube how to use depth gauge plate videos.. are we splitting hairs? Does it matter if the raker is sitting in the middle, or to the left, or right, just as long as it's through that little window on the plate? I thought as long as the raker is through the window regardless of left or right, or middle, then it's working correctly.. thought opinions please, Phil , Sean pv hiker, anyone
Click to expand...
L-C-R would ONLY matter if it changes the depth gage higher or lower. Would it change?
 
chipper1 said:
Yeah, hard to get them to cut when there's no tooth.
Look at this guys lol.
Click to expand...

There is the FACT that chain is still on a saw/bar and should NOT be; also an IDxxx on youtube that sharpens chain with a 4-inch side grinder.... walk away... leave the saw on the ground... walk away and maybe live another day.
 

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