VirginiaIron
ArboristSite Operative
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Depth gauge tool
- Thread starter MNfarmer
- Start date
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on the pack it says for h80 h42 h46 h47 h48.
Operator error for sure, I assumed a guide for 3/8 chain would fit 3/8 chain. My bad.
I do have some husky chain, but, its skip lol
Just frustrating when not smart enough to figure out the latest gadget.
Operator error for sure, I assumed a guide for 3/8 chain would fit 3/8 chain. My bad.
I do have some husky chain, but, its skip lol
Just frustrating when not smart enough to figure out the latest gadget.
OP, get yourself one of these and be done with it.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/
I used to hand file and touch up the rakers as needed until I tried one of these that a friend had. It saves a lot of time and produces good results.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/
I used to hand file and touch up the rakers as needed until I tried one of these that a friend had. It saves a lot of time and produces good results.
Maybe it was done to help others see that a chain that's well beyond what they should be filed can still cut and cut straight
.Well, that happens lol.
There are some good videos out there on how to use the roller guides and the raker guide on them. I think they are great tools for teaching file placement in the cutter, as they hold the file up out of the gullet, and you can get a good visual of how much of the file it under the cutter.
Don't allow the tool to win lol.
Those work well, and many times I recommend them to new cutters. They help teach muscle memory as far as the top plate angle, but they don't help you learn file placement if you ever want to freehand.
The biggest downside to them for many is the upfront cost, as many guys are wanting to save money and doing the rakers separately doesn't take much more time, and many already have the tools to do that and just want to learn how to properly use them.
Not to mean tion the depth gauge doesn't need filed every time a tooth is touched up.Maybe it was done to help others see that a chain that's well beyond what they should be filed can still cut and cut straight
Well, that happens lol.
There are some good videos out there on how to use the roller guides and the raker guide on them. I think they are great tools for teaching file placement in the cutter, as they hold the file up out of the gullet, and you can get a good visual of how much of the file it under the cutter.
Don't allow the tool to win lol.
Those work well, and many times I recommend them to new cutters. They help teach muscle memory as far as the top plate angle, but they don't help you learn file placement if you ever want to freehand.
The biggest downside to them for many is the upfront cost, as many guys are wanting to save money and doing the rakers separately doesn't take much more time, and many already have the tools to do that and just want to learn how to properly use them.
Maybe it was done to help others see that a chain that's well beyond what they should be filed can still cut and cut straight
Those work well, and many times I recommend them to new cutters. They help teach muscle memory as far as the top plate angle, but they don't help you learn file placement if you ever want to freehand.
The biggest downside to them for many is the upfront cost, as many guys are wanting to save money and doing the rakers separately doesn't take much more time, and many already have the tools to do that and just want to learn how to properly use them.
I used to agree with everything you said until i tried one, now I will not go back. The only time I free hand file is when I need a touch up out in the woods. It's just too quick and easy to not use, IMO.
I looked over this again. The file does ride higher than I am used to. Just because I been doing it for xx years does not mean I'm doing it right.
What about side plate or gullet? File that separately?
Or, no hook or beak at all?
The file is .210".
The depth gauge is still a mystery to me.
Maybe, next time it needs touched up.
Oh and this chain is Stihl full chisel, I don't know the number or call sign.
Thanks.
What about side plate or gullet? File that separately?
Or, no hook or beak at all?
The file is .210".
The depth gauge is still a mystery to me.
Maybe, next time it needs touched up.
Oh and this chain is Stihl full chisel, I don't know the number or call sign.
Thanks.
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
They cut still though
The gift that keeps on givingThey cut still though
I admire the fact that you are rethinking/looking it over again, we all have much more to learn!
It should work on that chain if we are talking about stihl RS, the blue roller guide is for standard 3/8 chain).
Edit, you may be doing it right, but with the wrong file size for the guide/your chain. Husky specifies 7/32 if I refer correctly.
Also, you must be sure to put the arrows pointing to the tip of the bar. The reason is this will sharpen the chain adding the 10 degree tilt angle to your file/chain.
You can see the arrows in this picture between the rollers.
The gullet/lower portion is another step when filing round until about halfway thru the chain.
Not sure whether that is a 13/64 file or a 7/32, neither converts to .210 as that's right in the middle of both.
You may need to use a slightly larger or smaller file to accomplish the hook you are looking for. I use more hook on green wood or softwoods (using a smaller file or hold file lower under the cutter), and for dead or frozen wood I use a larger file for less hook so the cutter will hold up better.
As far as how the raker guide portion works, here's a picture of how it looks on a husky chain. Results may vary on the stihl chain, but remember it's just a guide and can be adjusted slightly afterwards if you're not 100% pleased with it.
That’s the problem with meth: they think that they are cutting, when they are actually just smoking!.They cut still though
Philbert
I do. You are right in that it gets the rakers close, close enough for a fella cutting firewood and woods maintenance (me). For a pro or a chain being used to mill it likely isn't the best tool.
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Haha truth
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Thenne, rereading your comment, just wanna understand better, but you're saying, left, right , center in the window wouldn't be a problem , but if you mess with the height meaning, where the raker sits in the slot more forward , or backward, then that could be a problem.. right? You'd be changing the steepness of the plate gauge creating more tilt that could result in more kickback / injury from the saw
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
I'll take chippers thumbs up as a yes
Cutter0103, you could always pick up one of these. Not as precise as a progressive gauge, but there is no grey area on how to use it, it will work with any chain ever manufactured, and it's virtually impossible to knock your rakers down too far. Best of all, it will keep your rakers down to a decent, usable height that most firewood hacks would call "good enough".
Sort of.
While it's not nessasary a problem, it could equate to a more or less aggressive cutter. If a more aggressive cutter is my goal then I'll put the raker to the front, or I just use the softwood setting and remove a little less than it would take to file it down the the guide.
This is the second time you've mentioned this in this thread iirc, have you had kickback issues before, or just highly concerned about having them.
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Definitely seems like a foolproof tool. I want to use that gauge for when my chain is new and then switch to progressive when I'm further into the life of the chain
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Right that's what my train of thought was trying to get at. Just wasn't sure if I what made sense was actually true regarding which slot was more critical and I was not going to file. It's crazy the more I keep watching buckin's videos and the help from all of you at this forum, things keep clicking where it didn't make sense before. Feels like I'm on the "information superhighway". Props to whoever knows where that quote is from. And no luckily I haven't experienced crazy kickback but now that I'm getting more detailed in controlling angles and tuning more aggressive teeth hopefully that fact will remain
cutter0103
ArboristSite Member
Raker moving Left to right in the slot is cool, but filing the gauge down in the slot front to back, so now the raker is susceptible to being too far back or forward in the slot , thatss risky. Messing with the degree of tilt of how the gauge would be sitting now
