Depth gauge tool

[5155]

The file I measured came with the kit.
Checked a pferd, wee bit smaller.
I'm caught up and may swipe the cutters and take the saw for a spin later.
Not going to use the raker thing, perhaps it does not play nice with this model chain. The "progressive" was the sales point for me. No worry, I have other ways. 6 degrees.

I know this is fiddle farting around.
I want a tach next lol.

Question. Are the .325 and LP roller jigs also 10 degree tilt?

 

[chipper1]

Right that's what my train of thought was trying to get at. Just wasn't sure if I what made sense was actually true regarding which slot was more critical and I was not going to file. It's crazy the more I keep watching buckin's videos and the help from all of you at this forum, things keep clicking where it didn't make sense before. Feels like I'm on the "information superhighway". Props to whoever knows where that quote is from. And no luckily I haven't experienced crazy kickback but now that I'm getting more detailed in controlling angles and tuning more aggressive teeth hopefully that fact will remain

My saying in regards to learning is "the more you have your line in the water, the greater the chances are you'll get better at fishing". Sooner or later if you're not catching anything, you'll get the help you need. We used to get a kick out of watching guys fish at a local dam, they would walk in and cut in front of the next guys waiting to fish the hole(there was a small slot you could fish and only three guys could fish it at a time, once you hooked a fish you dropped back and a new guy would come into the front of the hole), then they would stand right in the run, which ruined the fishing for everyone else because they could not go up the run . Then after everyone already told them not to fish there they would cast out into the rocks and get snagged up and loose their rigs, then they would go back into shore and retie and we would start catching fish, until they did it again until all their equipment was gone. What's sad is most everyone there would have not only told them how the system worked(and kinda did when they walked into the run), and would have helped them to get their rigs set up right and even told them where to cast, but they wanted to do things their own way and wouldn't listen.
Much of chain sharpening is the same way, but unfortunately most of us don't have someone right there to teach us, which is the easiest way to learn. The school of hard knocks is, well, hard, but one can still learn if they desire.
I was washing a video last night on throw lines for setting ropes into trees, I thought it was great(enough to make a comment as to such), that there were so many other arborist who've done tree work for many yrs in the comments, that were saying they learned something. I basically commented that it's great to see guys with experience watching a video on something they've done thousands of times with the hopes of learning something new, and they did.
Like my signature says, "If you're not Laughing, Learning, and Loving, you're not Living!".

As far as kickback goes, you just need to watch the top front quadrant of the bar, that's where kickback typically occurs. If you file the rakers down too far that can cause issues with the chain chattering in the cut, and that actually makes them cut much slower, but if you keep control of the tip kickbacks shouldn't be a problem and the next time you file the cutter back that should go away(unless you really get carried away with the rakers).

Raker moving Left to right in the slot is cool, but filing the gauge down in the slot front to back, so now the raker is susceptible to being too far back or forward in the slot , thatss risky.

Risky, you said it again lol.
If you are aware of the causes of kickback, that knowledge along with reduce any risk drastically.
Now, get out and cut, life is risky!

 

[chipper1]

The file I measured came with the kit.
Checked a pferd, wee bit smaller.
I'm caught up and may swipe the cutters and take the saw for a spin later.
Not going to use the raker thing, perhaps it does not play nice with this model chain. The "progressive" was the sales point for me. No worry, I have other ways. 6 degrees.

I know this is fiddle farting around.
I want a tach next lol.

Question. Are the .325 and LP roller jigs also 10 degree tilt?

I like the progressive guides myself.
What other ways, and what's the 6 degrees?

Not sure the definition of fiddle farting, but I'd call it learning what works.
If you can't tune by ear a tach is nice. The newer saws with limited coils makes tuning a bit more difficult for a new guy.

The 325 is, I don't know if I have a 3/8 lp, but I'd guess it is. Pretty sure I have some brand new one in the basement, I'll look and edit this post.
Edit; I only had 5 kits lol. Guessing I never opened them because the raker guide is not progressive in the kits. Funny thing is the instructions on the back of the package show how to use a progressive gauge attached to the roller guide, that could be a bit confusing .
Looks as though it does based on the body of it, but I did not try it out. I primarily run the stihl picco chain on my small saws, I find it difficult to mess them up, they are very forgiving, plus I use them mainly on smaller wood so you don't see them curving/binding as much anyway.

Not all chains call for the 10 degree tilt(most stihl chains do not), but I've not seen a disadvantage in doing it.

 

[5155]

I knew I could make the depths deeper as the tooth wore back.
But not really "why", (that bugged me).
A guy on a forum clicked the switch for me. I wish I remembered his handle.

Draw a triangle.
At the raker is point A.
Down the bar, under cutter is point B.
At top of cutter is point C.
Make that angle from A to B and A to C be 6d.


I do not go measuring them all, or care, but now know WHY
and have reference / check.
It is not a magic thousandths number, it is a degrees number.
After a while you know what to shoot for. Guess you could degree measure a new chain to see it's number.

With the husky tool I can not grasp point A being consistent, yet.
Clear as mud?

 

[cutter0103]

My saying in regards to learning is "the more you have your line in the water, the greater the chances are you'll get better at fishing". Sooner or later if you're not catching anything, you'll get the help you need. We used to get a kick out of watching guys fish at a local dam, they would walk in and cut in front of the next guys waiting to fish the hole(there was a small slot you could fish and only three guys could fish it at a time, once you hooked a fish you dropped back and a new guy would come into the front of the hole), then they would stand right in the run, which ruined the fishing for everyone else because they could not go up the run . Then after everyone already told them not to fish there they would cast out into the rocks and get snagged up and loose their rigs, then they would go back into shore and retie and we would start catching fish, until they did it again until all their equipment was gone. What's sad is most everyone there would have not only told them how the system worked(and kinda did when they walked into the run), and would have helped them to get their rigs set up right and even told them where to cast, but they wanted to do things their own way and wouldn't listen.
Much of chain sharpening is the same way, but unfortunately most of us don't have someone right there to teach us, which is the easiest way to learn. The school of hard knocks is, well, hard, but one can still learn if they desire.
I was washing a video last night on throw lines for setting ropes into trees, I thought it was great(enough to make a comment as to such), that there were so many other arborist who've done tree work for many yrs in the comments, that were saying they learned something. I basically commented that it's great to see guys with experience watching a video on something they've done thousands of times with the hopes of learning something new, and they did.
Like my signature says, "If you're not Laughing, Learning, and Loving, you're not Living!".

As far as kickback goes, you just need to watch the top front quadrant of the bar, that's where kickback typically occurs. If you file the rakers down too far that can cause issues with the chain chattering in the cut, and that actually makes them cut much slower, but if you keep control of the tip kickbacks shouldn't be a problem and the next time you file the cutter back that should go away(unless you really get carried away with the rakers).

Risky, you said it again lol.
If you are aware of the causes of kickback, that knowledge along with reduce any risk drastically.
Now, get out and cut, life is risky!

Exactly I couldn't have said any of that better myself. I knew I came to the right site

 

[sean donato]

I knew I could make the depths deeper as the tooth wore back.
But not really "why", (that bugged me).
A guy on a forum clicked the switch for me. I wish I remembered his handle.

Draw a triangle.
At the raker is point A.
Down the bar, under cutter is point B.
At top of cutter is point C.
Make that angle from A to B and A to C be 6d.


I do not go measuring them all, or care, but now know WHY
and have reference / check.
It is not a magic thousandths number, it is a degrees number.
After a while you know what to shoot for. Guess you could degree measure a new chain to see it's number.

With the husky tool I can not grasp point A being consistent, yet.
Clear as mud?

It's not a degree measurement, the degree would change as the cutter is ground away, and you would have to lessen the degree to keep consistent height from the depth gauge to the cutter.
The old train of through using a standard height gauge made the depth gauge flatten out and got rid of the ramped profile. As the cutter twists as it cuts this could cause more friction instead of a smooth transition. The progressive style of tool helps maintain that ramp throughout the cutters usable life.

 

[Philbert]

a standard height gauge made the depth gauge flatten out and got rid of the ramped profile

I always round over my depth gauges, similar to the factory profile. I don’t want any sharp corners that might dig in.

Since I don’t know how much each cutter will rotate in a particular piece of wood, the rounded profile provides a continuous, smooth surface.

Philbert

 

[cutter0103]

Here's a funny one, is it true you should file the sawtooth again after you had a depth gauge sitting on it from adjusting the rakers.. . Some guy is doing this thing, file teeth first, then rakers , then teeth again for a couple of strokes.. is that really necessary

 

[cutter0103]

Here's a funny one, is it true you should file the sawtooth again after you had a depth gauge sitting on it from adjusting the rakers.. . Some guy is doing this thing, file teeth first, then rakers , then teeth again for a couple of strokes.. is that really necessary

I need to add.. this video was for sharpening square ground chain

 

[cutter0103]

I need to add.. this video was for sharpening square ground chain

Don't know if same applies to round chain

 

[sean donato]

No, the depth gauge adjustment is the last thing you do.

 

[chipper1]

I've never wasted my time doing that.
Maybe he doesn't know how to file the rakers without hitting the cutters.
I'd do if I was making a race chain that I removed a bit too much of the raker, other than that most times even when I set them a little low I deal with it for a tank or two and then they are fine when I hit the cutters again.

 

[cutter0103]

I've never wasted my time doing that.
Maybe he doesn't know how to file the rakers without hitting the cutters.
I'd do if I was making a race chain that I removed a bit too much of the raker, other than that most times even when I set them a little low I deal with it for a tank or two and

No, the depth gauge adjustment is the last thing you do.

Yea I thought so too

 

[cutter0103]

I've never wasted my time doing that.
Maybe he doesn't know how to file the rakers without hitting the cutters.
I'd do if I was making a race chain that I removed a bit too much of the raker, other than that most times even when I set them a little low I deal with it for a tank or two and then they are fine when I hit the cutters again.

That makes perfect sense. The tooth casting up with the rakers on the next filing or so

 

[cutter0103]

That makes perfect sense. The tooth casting up with the rakers on the next filing or so

*catching

 

[chipper1]

That makes perfect sense. The tooth catching up with the rakers on the next filing or so

Yes, but it's a bit risky until then .

 

[Philbert]

Some people hit their freshly filed cutters with their depth gauge file, if not careful.

1. Be careful.
2. This is why a depth gauge file has smooth sides, unlike a hardware store file, which has teeth on all 4 sides. It is referred to as a ‘safe file’.
3. The ‘U’- shaped profile of a conventional depth gauge gauge can be held vertically, to protect the cutter while profiling the depth gauge. One guy on here said he used an old spoon for this.

Philbert

 

[jellyroll]

I use the oregon .025 depth gauge tool it works well and doesn't cause me any problems.

 

[cutter0103]

Yes, but it's a bit risky until then .

Livin life in the danger zone

 

[cutter0103]

Some people hit their freshly filed cutters with their depth gauge file, if not careful.

1. Be careful.
2. This is why a depth gauge file has smooth sides, unlike a hardware store file, which has teeth on all 4 sides. It is referred to as a ‘safe file’.
3. The ‘U’- shaped profile of a conventional depth gauge gauge can be held vertically, to protect the cutter while profiling the depth gauge. One guy on here said he used an old spoon for this.

Philber

Some people hit their freshly filed cutters with their depth gauge file, if not careful.

1. Be careful.
2. This is why a depth gauge file has smooth sides, unlike a hardware store file, which has teeth on all 4 sides. It is referred to as a ‘safe file’.
3. The ‘U’- shaped profile of a conventional depth gauge gauge can be held vertically, to protect the cutter while profiling the depth gauge. One guy on here said he used an old spoon for this.

Philbert

Read you loud and clear. Got it