Didier splitters

[Brokk]

I'm trying this post a 3rd time, but without the quote at the beginning. Maybe that will make the difference.

Air filter looks like new. Actually, it might be. My dad replaced a few things when cleaning it up for me. I know he put in a new spark plug at the time. The only issue was he over oiled the filter, so for the first couple hours of running, it was struggling a bit for air. I've since squeezed it out better into paper towels, so that should be fine now.

The spark plug will end up with a liquidy black residue around the edges near the threads. More solid (or dried) black matter where it fires.

I've used a couple types of gas. The problems started when I was using 89 octane that was fairly fresh (couple weeks old?). My standard is to get 2.5 gallons of 89, add Stabil and Marvel Mystery Oil to it. That goes into all my power equipment around here. So it's usually pretty fresh, especially in the summer when my lawn tractor is guzzling it down. I had run the splitter for at least 4 hours this year and a few hours last year with that type of gas. I was well into my issues, when I ran out of that, and switched to some older (few months) gas, 87 octane with Stabil, that I had around for my plow truck. I've been using that since, knowing that I should use it up. I could just dump it into my SUV and get some new 89 octane. I'll try that tomorrow. Nothing else is complaining about the gas I've been using, and both types had the same result.

I'm not sure of the exact oil type. My dad changed the oil before giving me the splitter late last year. I took off the cap on one side and the level is right up there and when I dipped my finger in, it came out looking pretty clean, for oil.

I'm not sure where the throttle control is, for setting the speed. I pull the choke out, pull the cord a couple times and it fires up and sucks the choke back in. That's where it runs. Under load, the throttle increases, when you ease off, it drops back to idle.

I'm hoping to run it Saturday and see how it goes, with a clean cylinder, and much cleaner valves. I'm curious if I'll see the same behavior with no issues for the first 90 minutes, then if it starts to stall under load. Also, it's not just about running it cold. I had issues before and shut it down for a couple hours. Within minutes of firing it back up the troubled behavior was back.

 

[Markjewell]

Didier Carb

Hi Brokk,

The "silver" piece in the photo is a filter for the hydraulic fluid.
I have not cleaned the darned for about 8-10 years now. Just a wire mesh screen in there.

You must have a throttle control on that carb. Run it at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. These 5hp engines really don't require all that much maintenance. Perhaps the govenor control is not hooked up?

Are you sure that the choke is fully open when it is warmed up? When you are ready to split, is the engine turning at a good rpm? Almost like cutting the lawn with a mower. You have to have the engine humming along at a good clip.

Also, make sure that the 2 bolts holding the carb on to the motor are tight and the carb is not "loose".

Mark

 

[Brokk]

Sorry for all the repeat posts.

I got new 89 octane gas, added Stabil. Siphoned off the old gas and put in the new. Tuned the mixture back as lean as she would run at. She stalled on the first piece. Made the mixture a quarter turn richer. Had trouble restarting her. Once she was running, she stalled again on the next attempt. Another quarter turn richer. Had more trouble starting her. Finally got her running and went to town doing work. It seemed to be running a bit faster as it got into things. She lasted about 45 minutes before starting to run rough again. I kept going until I had my fill of splitting. I put it away, pulled the plug and sure enough there was greasy black on it. I cleaned it off, checked the gap (which was perfect) and put it back together. This morning I ran it for a couple hours more until I emptied the gas tank. It was running *very* rough. The idle was up and down and sounded like it was fighting not to die. However, no more stalling either. I finished nearly a cord over the two days and I have to say it seems like it ran better with the old gas.

Still not sure where the heck that black gunk is coming from.

I'll check those bolts, as well as as start to pull it apart to check the float and such.

I have less than 2 cords left to go, then I'll be done for this year and I can tinker away to my hearts content. I'll leave some wood unsplit to test drive it later, assuming I can split up all the rest.

 

[Bl8tant]

Brokk,

A few things about your engine: That is an "L"-head type briggs with a pulsa-jet carb. There is no float to adjust, and they are a VERY simple design. You can do a rebuild in 30 minutes and you'll have no problems - just take your time and pay attention to where things go. A rebuild kit will mainly consist of a new diaphram, a base gasket, and a new adjustment needle. WELL worth the $5 to buy and install. Since the motor has at some point had gas left in it, you need to clean, clean, clean when you disassemble. One of your main issues right now is the main jet screw (adjustment needle) is worn or damaged (it can be hard to see the damage). This is often the culprit for symptoms you describe (particularly running rough when jostled). Basically what is happening is that you can no longer maintain adjustment due to damaged taper on the needle. The best evidence for this---the heavy soot deposit on the muffler.

If you do replace the needle, you do know NOT to tighten the screw down hard ? Just turn the adjustment clockwise until you "feel" the needle bottom out (GENTLY). Then turn it out (counter-clockwise) 1 1/2 turns. This will allow the engine to start, and then you can fine tune once it's running. SMALL turns make a BIG difference on a healthy carb.

Also, I notice that you add Sta-bil (good) and MMO (OK), but you are using too much of a good thing. Both products contribute quite a bit of "oil" to your fuel especially if you are over-dosing. Try running a tank of fresh gas with NO additives and then check the plug. Even though your engine is running rich due to the damaged adjustment needle, you should see a reduction in the "gooiness" of the black deposits. Sta-Bil is a great preserver. You don't really need the MMO unless you have evidence for needing upper cylinder lubrication. At any rate, I would recommend Sea-Foam over MMO for fuel treatment.

If after replacing the needle and using gas with NO additives you STILL have black gooey build-up then:
1) clogged air filter
2) defective crankcase breather
3) worn rings (loss of oil control)
4) worn valve guides allowing oil to be sucked past the valve stems

Those are in order of most likely to least likely culprit. (And cheapest to fix to most expensive to fix)

 

[Brokk]

Since I've had no luck with the B&S web site in getting a carb rebuild kit, I'll hit my local hardware store since I know they stock some B&S parts and can order others. Hopefully they can get me the parts and I can do the rebuild.

Yes, I'm very careful with the mixture screw. What you said is exactly the same thing my father told me and was the exact setting when I checked it the first time. Gently turned it all the way in, until I hit resistance. Then back it out 1.5 turns on the nose. I've since turned it in farther, trying to make it more lean, as the idle was very rough and I also had stalling issues at that setting.

I've noticed it runs a lot rougher as the gas tank nears empty. Not sure if that points at anything.

The valves looked pretty worn to me, comparing them to the pictures of new valves I saw on the B&S web site.

Once I get the kit, I'll pull it apart, clean everything, and put it back together and run it with fresh gas.

I tend to add Stabil and MMO because I use the same gas for many different engines and I never know quickly I'll go through gas. Stabil should be added immediately after fill up for the best effect. I'll use a one gallon container this time to keep things untainted for the splitter.

Thanks for the insight!

 

[Bl8tant]

Get your engine numbers (located on the starter shroud :model - type-code) and call Jack's Small Engine (located in Maryland). They can provide you with a rebuild kit - $6 + shipping. The rebuild kits are pretty much "universal" , one kit is used to service nearly all 5hp thru 3hp engines with Pulsa jet carbs. Just match the parts you remove to the new parts in the bag. Not all pieces will be used.

You said the valves appear "worn". How so/In what way? Are you referring to the intake and exhaust valves ? Also, if you are removing the head, are you using a new head gasket each time ? There are 2 types of head gaskets available. One is metal-clad and appears reusable (but you shouldn't) and the other is a graphite type that tends to tear up every time you remove the head (these seal better,but can never be reused even in a pinch). Once you have your main issues figured out, get a graphite head gasket and install. Torque bolts to 70 in-lbs first then final torque to 140 in-lbs and make SURE you torque them in the right order. SERVICE manuals are readily available for free download and contain all this info. Also, do a search for PERR - lots of good reading there.

 

[Bl8tant]

You also said it runs rougher once the fuel level drops - 2 possible issues there. 1)Diaphram is weak or stiff (old) - I replace mine nearly every year. It serves as the "fuel pump" and it's rubber construction does not like the new ethanol-tainted gasoline we get. FYI-a new diaphram is include in a carb kit or is available seperately for $2. 2)The fuel pick-up line in the tank may be cracked or partially clogged. This is the longer plastic tube that sticks down into the tank. Technically, the plastic part can be replaced. There is also a shorter tube or extension that goes into a little "sump" at the top of the tank. Make sure the sump is clean and the extension is open.

Your best bet is to clean,clean,clean. Use good solvent, use toothpicks to gently scapre and clear passages, use VERY small wire to clear passages (DON"T force wire into holes, just find a piece that fits easily and run it in and out a few times).

If you are over-dosing with Sta-Bil and MMO it will form a sticky varnish (like pre-ethanol gas). On the other hand, un-treated Ethanol gas tends to corrode metals, harden plastic and rubber (or dissolve them), and makes a powdery residue that can be impossible to remove. Try just sticking with the proper dose of Sta-Bil. Your engines will thank you for it. I only use MMO if I have a valve-sticking issue. Even then I only run a few tanks of MMO treated fuel. Otherwise it's not really needed and just contributes to potential carbon build-up IMO.

 

[Brokk]

The pictures of the valves on the B&S website are shiny, new and look very smooth and clean. Mine appear "rough". There is clearly some sort of buildup on top of them, that I have done my best to remove (light powdery gray stuff). Very resistant to removing. Carb cleaner does nothing to it. When feeling around the outer edges of the valves, they feel rough. Not sure if this is some sort of buildup of stuff, or piting. The website stresses the need for a smooth surface on the valves, as well as where they fit into. I fear the roughness on them, and buildup underneath could be causing them to not have a good seal when they come together.

My fear with the valves is it seems to call for a special tool for removing and re-installing the springs. So I don't want to mess with it if I don't have the right equipment to deal with it.

The head gasket is the metal type, and yes I've been reusing it. I'll see about getting a new one (or a few until I figure out this black gunk issue).

I don't think I'm over dosing. I use the recommended amount on the label. I think it's 1 oz for 2.5 gallons? Same for MMO.

 

[Cigarman]

I just recently joined the Didier splitter club. Mine is a Montgomery Ward Model 24372, I have PM'd a few people who have posted on this thread as I am looking for the manual(s) .pdf file that is circulating.
Thanks

Edit to add:
Specter just took care of me with the Manual.
Thanks a lot. Now you won't hear anything more about the splitter unless i have a repair question ;-)

 

[specter]

Always glad to assist

Tom

 

[pompey12]

Didier Side Bars p/n 200021

Hi- Lookin for help on getting new brass side bars for my Didier..This site great for info.

Any help w/b/ appreciated...

Kevin

 

[specter]

The edges on mine are steel made out of bar stock steel. I am not sure where you can locate a new set. If the one's in that picture are your existing set you could try resurfacing with some thinner bar stock attached to the orignal edges. Of course if you have access or know someone that has a machine shop they could mill some off the existing face cleaning up the face and allowing the edge to fit like new.

 

[Brokk]

I'm still looking for the manual as well. I tried contacting a previous poster who said they could provide one, but I never heard back from them.

 

[specter]

Send me your email address I will send it to you as an attachment since its a large pdf file 4.35mb

Tom

 

[specter]

Got your address your manual is on its way

Tom

 

[Brokk]

Thank you Tom!

 

[specter]

Your welcome I hope it helps you as much as it has helped me

Tom:msp_thumbup:

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Sorry I missed your request for the manual but glad you got it anyway. My laptop motherboard died on me so I have been offline for quite awhile (I borrowed a computer to post this.)

My - we sure have a lot of Didier owners here!

Shari

 

[Cigarman]

Sorry I missed your request for the manual but glad you got it anyway. My laptop motherboard died on me so I have been offline for quite awhile (I borrowed a computer to post this.)

My - we sure have a lot of Didier owners here!

Shari

There sure are!

Here are pics of mine.
View attachment 198923
View attachment 198924
View attachment 198925
View attachment 198926

I'm getting all my wood split and then I am going to see about getting the seals replaced as it is leaking a little bit of fluid.
The manual calls for either hydraulic fluid or 10w-30 or 40 oil. My machine says to fill with "Oil" on the top of the tank. However the stuff that is in the reservoir seems to be hydraulic fluid.
Does it matter what is used?

 

[Cigarman]

I used my splitter for a couple of days and the cylinder leak got worse. I figured it would!
I found a hydraulic repair place in the area and just brought the cylinder to them. I was planning on just buying the seals and rings but since I didn't have the proper tool to remove the plug I figured I might as well have them rebuild it. The guy took the thing apart and the rings just disintegrated! No wonder it was leaking.
Anyway, it is totally rebuilt now! I bought two new O-Rings for the control mechanism (I had already taken the old ones out) and some new lengths of hydraulic hose for the non pressurized feeds.
I put it back together, put new oil in it and it's running like a champ. I should be all set for another 30+ years.