Does an old chain cut faster than a new chain?
- Thread starter Chainsaw Pete
- Start date
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A scary sharp chain, round filed and the rakers at the proper height can cut well to the angle line. YMMV.
A "new" chain that as been used in several cuts will likely not cut as fast as a sharpened older chain that has not yet cut a big round. I found that out at a GTG. The sawyer that barely beat me said, "Well, I must admit that I waited until you finished several big cuts before I tapped on your shoulder."
Later he told me that he was also using a skip-tooth chain and high-test airplane fuel, even though it was supposed to be stock competition.
Later he told me that he was also using a skip-tooth chain and high-test airplane fuel, even though it was supposed to be stock competition.
I'm glad to hear that!
The more worn, the faster they cut if they are sharpened correctly. If you look from the top down, the cutters point out to the left and to the right. As they are filed back they cut a narrower kerf. But the .025” raker height thing doesn’t hold true on an old chain. McBob in Australia figured out that you need to use a 6 to 7° down angle from the cutter to the raker and he was right in my findings. New chain with the rakers at .025” cuts with similar aggression as a worn out chain at .032”
Got a link? "same angle" seems like an improbable outcome, and of questionable merit, too.
My mind is open! Show me what you are talking about.
This is one of many. WCS depth plate. The Carlton file o plate is another. Husky also offers a roller guide with a progressive plate attached to it. Any style gauge that rests on top of a cutter and drops down on an angle and rests on the chain chassis in front of the raker you are gauging, as opposed to the other style that lays across the top of several cutters and is only .025 for hardwood and .035 for softwood
To me an old chain has had a bunch of chips rubbing by the top and side of the cutters hence comparing it (in touched up form) to a race chain that is a new chain modified to look the same from a distance isn't in line with the title of the thread here.
thenne1713
ArboristSite Guru
2/3 OF CUTTERS GONE, YET RAKERS LOOK LIKE NEVER FILED? Hmmmmmmmm?
Did you ever hear the saying, A SMOOTH chain is a fast chain , grabbing doesn’t cut it , and those aren’t normal rakers , that’s a modified race chain , as per example from previous conversation.
I have never tried that style out, so you may have a point. My favorite (and only) filing guide is the Husqvarna roller guide, I've got one for every size chain. I never considered the depth gauge tool to be "progressive". I guess I'll have to look at that again.
I usually hand-file the teeth in the field, using the Husqy roller guides if I happen to have them with me. Depth gauges get set at the shop. I have a traditional grinder set up just for doing the depth gauges, along with two other grinders with CBN wheels for doing easy, accurate sharpening at the shop. Also necessary for saving those 36" chains that have been out stump cutting.
Same here.
This is the standard non-progressive type. It rests across the top of 2 or more cutters and always sets the raker .025” below the tallest cutters that it’s resting on. It’s part of the reason many say a worn chain won’t cut with a new one. When a chain is nearly worn out, .025” isn’t low enough
Like mentioned, it’s a race chain. All normal practices go out the window. If it has sharp angles, .025” rakers might make it too aggressive. Many race chains for sub-100cc saws have them around .018-.020”.
They’re actually lower than they appear anyway. Looks like they’ve been filed from the rear (which will leave them lower) as opposed to from the top like normal
Give one a try.
You will be glad you did.
I use the Stihl guides.
I've got two sets of 1/4, 3/8mini, .325m 3/8 and .404
The came from Europe before they were being sold in the U.S.
I mostly square file. The chain in the photo came with a used MS362C and has the extra hump on the tie strap. I hate that! lol.
That's been my expiereance.
I take them off with a pedestal grinder.
How do you determine how much to take off?
Nothing technical, I fold it over and knock em' down. Takes 15-20 mins for an 80 dl chain.
Long Bar 60
ArboristSite Operative
I've gone through many thousands of feet of saw chain, mostly Oregon 75CJ (3/8 .063 full skip chisel/chisel) ground on either a Bell K6A or Silvey SDM4 and Silvey HDG for rakers, gullets and heels. I can take the bits down so far that they snap off in the cut. Short chain is faster but rougher cutting (vibration) and wears your hands out sooner. Critical on short chisel/chisel chain is keeping REALLY clean gullets and running your rakers hungrier than you would on newer chain. Short chain has less drag in a cut.
I KNOW the chain I was using when I cut the tree in my thumbnail was short as all my chain for the 50" bar I used is old short chain.
I like chain that's ground back about half way best. Smoother and faster. Plus, the chicks dig it. LOL
I KNOW the chain I was using when I cut the tree in my thumbnail was short as all my chain for the 50" bar I used is old short chain.
I like chain that's ground back about half way best. Smoother and faster. Plus, the chicks dig it. LOL
