Does an old chain cut faster than a new chain?

[oldguy]

I've had great luck with chains almost worn out. AS long as the depth gauges are set right they really rip.

This is a well worn semi chisel chain in hardwood on an 036.

I've had great luck with chains almost worn out. AS long as the depth gauges are set right they really rip.

This is a well worn semi chisel chain in hardwood on an 036.

That boxelder cuts pretty easy don't it!

 

[bucketofguts]

A scary sharp chain, round filed and the rakers at the proper height can cut well to the angle line. YMMV.

 

[Wood Doctor]

A "new" chain that as been used in several cuts will likely not cut as fast as a sharpened older chain that has not yet cut a big round. I found that out at a GTG. The sawyer that barely beat me said, "Well, I must admit that I waited until you finished several big cuts before I tapped on your shoulder."

Later he told me that he was also using a skip-tooth chain and high-test airplane fuel, even though it was supposed to be stock competition.

 

[HumBurner]

Oh they didn't get thrown out... they rode around in the tool boxes of the trucks until someone sharpened them or they "rode" home with the guys to get sharpened and used for their weekend jobs.

I never saw a chain in the scrap bin unless it was too far gone.

I'm glad to hear that!

 

[huskihl]

The more worn, the faster they cut if they are sharpened correctly. If you look from the top down, the cutters point out to the left and to the right. As they are filed back they cut a narrower kerf. But the .025” raker height thing doesn’t hold true on an old chain. McBob in Australia figured out that you need to use a 6 to 7° down angle from the cutter to the raker and he was right in my findings. New chain with the rakers at .025” cuts with similar aggression as a worn out chain at .032”

 

[pdqdl]

You need a progressive style depth gauge tool.
It automatically takes the depth gauges down the right amount as the chain wears, keeping the same angle from the cutter to the depth gauge for the whole life of the chain.

Got a link? "same angle" seems like an improbable outcome, and of questionable merit, too.

My mind is open! Show me what you are talking about.

 

[huskihl]

Got a link? "same angle" seems like an improbable outcome, and of questionable merit, too.

My mind is open! Show me what you are talking about.

This is one of many. WCS depth plate. The Carlton file o plate is another. Husky also offers a roller guide with a progressive plate attached to it. Any style gauge that rests on top of a cutter and drops down on an angle and rests on the chain chassis in front of the raker you are gauging, as opposed to the other style that lays across the top of several cutters and is only .025 for hardwood and .035 for softwood

 

[Franny K]

To me an old chain has had a bunch of chips rubbing by the top and side of the cutters hence comparing it (in touched up form) to a race chain that is a new chain modified to look the same from a distance isn't in line with the title of the thread here.

 

[thenne1713]

Yup , about 1/3 of the chain left or less ,View attachment 1216374

2/3 OF CUTTERS GONE, YET RAKERS LOOK LIKE NEVER FILED? Hmmmmmmmm?

 

[Squareground3691]

2/3 OF CUTTERS GONE, YET RAKERS LOOK LIKE NEVER FILED? Hmmmmmmmm?

Did you ever hear the saying, A SMOOTH chain is a fast chain , grabbing doesn’t cut it , and those aren’t normal rakers , that’s a modified race chain , as per example from previous conversation.

 

[pdqdl]

This is one of many. WCS depth plate. The Carlton file o plate is another. Husky also offers a roller guide with a progressive plate attached to it. Any style gauge that rests on top of a cutter and drops down on an angle and rests on the chain chassis in front of the raker you are gauging, as opposed to the other style that lays across the top of several cutters and is only .025 for hardwood and .035 for softwood


View attachment 1216569

I have never tried that style out, so you may have a point. My favorite (and only) filing guide is the Husqvarna roller guide, I've got one for every size chain. I never considered the depth gauge tool to be "progressive". I guess I'll have to look at that again.

I usually hand-file the teeth in the field, using the Husqy roller guides if I happen to have them with me. Depth gauges get set at the shop. I have a traditional grinder set up just for doing the depth gauges, along with two other grinders with CBN wheels for doing easy, accurate sharpening at the shop. Also necessary for saving those 36" chains that have been out stump cutting.

 

[huskihl]

I have never tried that style out, so you may have a point. My favorite (and only) filing guide is the Husqvarna roller guide, I've got one for every size chain. I never considered the depth gauge tool to be "progressive". I guess I'll have to look at that again.

I usually hand-file the teeth in the field, using the Husqy roller guides if I happen to have them with me. Depth gauges get set at the shop. I have a traditional grinder set up just for doing the depth gauges, along with two other grinders with CBN wheels for doing easy, accurate sharpening at the shop. Also necessary for saving those 36" chains that have been out stump cutting.

Same here.

This is the standard non-progressive type. It rests across the top of 2 or more cutters and always sets the raker .025” below the tallest cutters that it’s resting on. It’s part of the reason many say a worn chain won’t cut with a new one. When a chain is nearly worn out, .025” isn’t low enough

 

[huskihl]

2/3 OF CUTTERS GONE, YET RAKERS LOOK LIKE NEVER FILED? Hmmmmmmmm?

Like mentioned, it’s a race chain. All normal practices go out the window. If it has sharp angles, .025” rakers might make it too aggressive. Many race chains for sub-100cc saws have them around .018-.020”.

They’re actually lower than they appear anyway. Looks like they’ve been filed from the rear (which will leave them lower) as opposed to from the top like normal

 

[Del_]

I have never tried that style out, so you may have a point. My favorite (and only) filing guide is the Husqvarna roller guide, I've got one for every size chain. I never considered the depth gauge tool to be "progressive". I guess I'll have to look at that again.

Give one a try.

You will be glad you did.

I use the Stihl guides.

I've got two sets of 1/4, 3/8mini, .325m 3/8 and .404

The came from Europe before they were being sold in the U.S.

I mostly square file. The chain in the photo came with a used MS362C and has the extra hump on the tie strap. I hate that! lol.

 

[bwalker]

The more worn, the faster they cut if they are sharpened correctly. If you look from the top down, the cutters point out to the left and to the right. As they are filed back they cut a narrower kerf. But the .025” raker height thing doesn’t hold true on an old chain. McBob in Australia figured out that you need to use a 6 to 7° down angle from the cutter to the raker and he was right in my findings. New chain with the rakers at .025” cuts with similar aggression as a worn out chain at .032”

That's been my expiereance.

 

[Lionsfan]

I mostly square file. The chain in the photo came with a used MS362C and has the extra hump on the tie strap. I hate that! lol.

View attachment 1216799

I take them off with a pedestal grinder.

 

[Del_]

I take them off with a pedestal grinder.

How do you determine how much to take off?

 

[Lionsfan]

How do you determine how much to take off?

Nothing technical, I fold it over and knock em' down. Takes 15-20 mins for an 80 dl chain.