Dolmar PS33

[chainsaw kid]

I have a nice little dolmar ps33 that i would like to fix up. it is in ok shape but missing a few things. It will need an air filter cover, air filter , and clutch and thats all I know of. so far. I got it as a parts saw and or to fix. Well, it starts good and sounds good and looks like a well made machine. I would love to hear peoples experiences with the sp33 ...good and bad. So people please fill me in on this particular saw.

If some of you kind people could look into your parts saws I will need an air filter cover air filter and clutch.
If I can come up with these pieces, I will go through porting this saw in this thread

I added a few pictures so people can get a sense for what I need. Please PM me or reply in thread with comments about this model saw.
Thank You,

Kevin

 

[chainsaw kid]

I have a nice little dolmar ps33 that i would like to fix up. it is in ok shape but missing a few things. It will need an air filter cover, air filter , and clutch and thats all I know of. so far. I got it as a parts saw and or to fix. Well, it starts good and sounds good and looks like a well made machine. I would love to hear peoples experiences with the sp33 ...good and bad. So people please fill me in on this particular saw.

If some of you kind people could look into your parts saws I will need an air filter cover air filter and clutch.
If I can come up with these pieces, I will go through porting this saw in this thread

I added a few pictures so people can get a sense for what I need. Please PM me or reply in thread with comments about this model saw.
Thank You,

Kevin

 

[chainsaw kid]

So no dice? Nobody has anything to say?

 

[nstueve]

I've got several of these. They were originally made as Dolmar 100's, but have had many many different model numbers over the years (several in makita colors too). They are one of the best little limber saws you can find for the cheap money you put in. They are light and nimble. Are designed after a pro style saw. The only thing I didn't like was that they run to low on RPM and the bar mount area could have been designed a little more rugged IMO. I'll leave a list of the "To dos" to make it a great little runner. the last 2 aren't needed but I wanted to keep going with mine.

1.) take the muffler apart (slides apart easy), remove baffle and replace with a couple small stainless or steel tubes (tubes act as anti-crush sleeve), open hole in front of muffler and then ope hole in the front muffler screen.

2.) How's your rim drive? Wait it's not a rim drive... Yea if it needs replace do a conversion to a 026 shallow drum rim drive. Ask if you want more details. It basically allows swap-able rims to run 3/8LP and .325 and you can run a shorter bar with a bigger pin count. Keep in mind .325 rims can't be found for this saw. I've still wanted to try .325NK on mine...

3.) If you're feeling spry swap out to caber rings and check your squish without a base gasket. I'm running mine at 0.017 right now and it's SNOTTY! Doesn't blink an eye with 14in bar buried in oak.

4.) light port work: the fuel intake system can be cleaned up with a dremel (enlarge and smooth out). Widen the open transfers and smooth out the exhaust.

 

[nstueve]

Here is a list of a few that should be the same...

100
100 Super
102
PS-33
PS-39
PS-330
PS-340
PS-341
PS-342
PS-344
PS-400
PS-401
PS-410
PS-411

 

[chainsaw kid]

I've got several of these. They were originally made as Dolmar 100's, but have had many many different model numbers over the years (several in makita colors too). They are one of the best little limber saws you can find for the cheap money you put in. They are light and nimble. Are designed after a pro style saw. The only thing I didn't like was that they run to low on RPM and the bar mount area could have been designed a little more rugged IMO. I'll leave a list of the "To dos" to make it a great little runner. the last 2 aren't needed but I wanted to keep going with mine.

1.) take the muffler apart (slides apart easy), remove baffle and replace with a couple small stainless or steel tubes (tubes act as anti-crush sleeve), open hole in front of muffler and then ope hole in the front muffler screen.

2.) How's your rim drive? Wait it's not a rim drive... Yea if it needs replace do a conversion to a 026 shallow drum rim drive. Ask if you want more details. It basically allows swap-able rims to run 3/8LP and .325 and you can run a shorter bar with a bigger pin count. Keep in mind .325 rims can't be found for this saw. I've still wanted to try .325NK on mine...

3.) If you're feeling spry swap out to caber rings and check your squish without a base gasket. I'm running mine at 0.017 right now and it's SNOTTY! Doesn't blink an eye with 14in bar buried in oak.

4.) light port work: the fuel intake system can be cleaned up with a dremel (enlarge and smooth out). Widen the open transfers and smooth out the exhaust.

Thank you very much for taking your time to help me out. After reading your post I can't wait to get this saw together. I will do what you suggested and open the muffler/port it. I need to find a few parts though. I need the air filter cover, an air filter and clutch. Any help with any of these parts woul be great. I checked eBay and they have an air filter and a clutch. Unless told otherwise I'll probably get those.

 

[nstueve]

Thank you very much for taking your time to help me out. After reading your post I can't wait to get this saw together. I will do what you suggested and open the muffler/port it. I need to find a few parts though. I need the air filter cover, an air filter and clutch. Any help with any of these parts woul be great. I checked eBay and they have an air filter and a clutch. Unless told otherwise I'll probably get those.

I would request these parts on the Swap Meet thread. You'll probably get them cheaper and build a contact or two in the future. Trading parts is a good way to keep build costs down! I know there are several other Dolmar guys on here that probably have 1-3 of these sitting around... I don't have any parts you need or i'd send them off to ya.

 

[Matt81]

My PS-340 looks to be the exact same saw. I love mine even stock it cuts well for a 33cc saw. Mine is the Makita version.

After reading this i have some work to carry out!! Mine is unfortunately still very stock.

How's your rim drive? Wait it's not a rim drive... Yea if it needs replace do a conversion to a 026 shallow drum rim drive.

Do you mean a rim drive from a Stihl 026?? I would love to run a rim drive on mine as it is a saw i use all the time for limbing. Fantastic low weight and very nimble.

 

[chainsaw kid]

I have some real good news, I went to a local Dolmar dealer (Bracket and Shaw in Berwick Maine) and he had a top cover, air filter, and clutch in stock. He was even surprised he had the top cover then recollected why he had it for an old project years ago. So I ended up buying everything I think I need. I even bought a new 14" widsor bar. Tonight I am hoping to pull the cylinder and port it, already started pulling it apart. . I am kinda excited to build this little saw...

 

[Matt81]

Well done. Nice find.
I know i would be real excited to get it up and running. I love my little Dolmar. Let us know how it runs when you are done.

 

[chainsaw kid]

I got it together last night. The only thing left is to cut a 52 DL 3/8 LP chain and do the muffler. I ended up having to make a .007 base gasket to give me a squish of .017
I will try and get out later this morning and finish the muffler and throw it the rest of the way together.

A few pictures...

 

[nstueve]

My PS-340 looks to be the exact same saw. I love mine even stock it cuts well for a 33cc saw. Mine is the Makita version.
After reading this i have some work to carry out!! Mine is unfortunately still very stock.
Do you mean a rim drive from a Stihl 026?? I would love to run a rim drive on mine as it is a saw i use all the time for limbing. Fantastic low weight and very nimble.

Yes. You have to find the non-automatic oiler 026 clutch drum that has the mini spline for running the Stihl mini rims. You can tell which is which b/c they won't have a notch in the back side to run the worm gear arm. You'll need to carefully shave some material from the spline drive and from the back edge of the rim. This shaves the overall width of the drum so it will fit without clearance issues. The 33/340 rim bearing and 026 clutch drum will be pretty tight if I recall. So you have to use a different bearing or take a hair of material out of the drums center hole. I used my dremel with a mandrel and some 100 grit to take out a little material and 320 to smooth it back up as I recall. the smallest Stihl mini spline for 3/8 is a 7pin so it's already 1 tooth bigger to spin the chain faster. Pretty sure you can get 8pin 3/8 rims too if you are running a small bar like me. I have yet to try .325 chain but if you guys do let me know how it goes.

I will try and get out later this morning and finish the muffler and throw it the rest of the way together.
View attachment 327260

Now for the muffler. Just leave the baffle out. I went to the hardware store and found some small steel tube that fits over the muffler bolts. Cut to the same length as the baffle and use those as anti-crush sleeves. If you don't put the steel tubes in you will crush the shape of the muffler. Also open up the front muffler hole and cut a hole in that front grate. Keep the hole to about 3/8in diameter or less to begin with because you might find you need the back pressure since the baffle is gone.


As a side note to all this I think it's so funny that Dolmar put decomp buttons on these little things. Mine doesn't need one even at 160lbs+ of compression. Yet, the Dolmar 143 at 95cc and 180#+ definitly needs one and didn't get one. My little makita version of the PS-410 is nicknamed "lil blue termite" for a reason. I have a 12in bar on that thing and it will do 80% of the work for me on any cutting job. They are so light a powerful once modded it's crazy. These little saws are little known to many others that are using Stihl 021's and other worthless small saws.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I just came across this thread and happen to be working on a PS340 myself. It was badly scored but the cylinder cleaned up nice. I had an older NOS- SD100 piston sitting here so I tried putting it in, its the same 37mm piston but it needs a bit of notching to clear the crank counterweight on the right hand side. I didn`t have a ring in my collection so have one on its way to me through the mail. I tried cleaning up the old ring but it can`t make more than 90 lbs comp so I have to wait to get it running. I do have a running SD100 that needs an airfilter, will continue looking for one for it. They seem to be nice small saws, will fit in nicely with the rest of my SD collection. Best of luck on your project.

 

[nstueve]

I just came across this thread and happen to be working on a PS340 myself. It was badly scored but the cylinder cleaned up nice. I had an older NOS- SD100 piston sitting here so I tried putting it in, its the same 37mm piston but it needs a bit of notching to clear the crank counterweight on the right hand side. I didn`t have a ring in my collection so have one on its way to me through the mail. I tried cleaning up the old ring but it can`t make more than 90 lbs comp so I have to wait to get it running. I do have a running SD100 that needs an airfilter, will continue looking for one for it. They seem to be nice small saws, will fit in nicely with the rest of my SD collection. Best of luck on your project.

The 33cc versions are nice but the 40cc versions do have quite a bit more grunt and very little weight change. Just in case you or others have the chance to snag the bigger displacement model or top end.

 

[Matt81]

Yes. You have to find the non-automatic oiler 026 clutch drum that has the mini spline for running the Stihl mini rims. You can tell which is which b/c they won't have a notch in the back side to run the worm gear arm. You'll need to carefully shave some material from the spline drive and from the back edge of the rim. This shaves the overall width of the drum so it will fit without clearance issues. The 33/340 rim bearing and 026 clutch drum will be pretty tight if I recall. So you have to use a different bearing or take a hair of material out of the drums center hole. I used my dremel with a mandrel and some 100 grit to take out a little material and 320 to smooth it back up as I recall. the smallest Stihl mini spline for 3/8 is a 7pin so it's already 1 tooth bigger to spin the chain faster. Pretty sure you can get 8pin 3/8 rims too if you are running a small bar like me. I have yet to try .325 chain but if you guys do let me know how it goes.

Thanks very much for the info. I will try and get hold of one. Would be real nice to run a rim system on this saw.

The 33cc versions are nice but the 40cc versions do have quite a bit more grunt and very little weight change. Just in case you or others have the chance to snag the bigger displacement model or top end.

I am actually currently bidding on a NOS Makita DCS-411 saw over here. According to my 340 manual there is only a 4 oz difference in weight: 8lbs 9oz for the 340 and 8lbs 13oz for the 40cc variety. However it is 1.9 Hp vs 2.3 Hp. A lot more grunt for bugger all weight increase. Plus the 40cc versions run .325 out of the box, but are still a spur sprocket.

 

[nstueve]

Thanks very much for the info. I will try and get hold of one. Would be real nice to run a rim system on this saw.

I am actually currently bidding on a NOS Makita DCS-411 saw over here. According to my 340 manual there is only a 4 oz difference in weight: 8lbs 9oz for the 340 and 8lbs 13oz for the 40cc variety. However it is 1.9 Hp vs 2.3 Hp. A lot more grunt for bugger all weight increase. Plus the 40cc versions run .325 out of the box, but are still a spur sprocket.

I found reference to an old PN for .325 drum for these but I have never found one easily on ebay or else where state side. I know they have the power but couldn't find the parts; thus why i converted to interchangeable rim drive.

Once you do a little light port work and a few modifications it will seem like you have another 15-20% power. I can't back those numbers up with dyno runs or videos of cuts b4 and after mods but... You can tell when you run them. I didn't degree mine all out when I ported it (probably should have) but here is what I did... Slicked up the entire intake from the carb thru the cylinder neck (yes the plastics too). Widened the exhaust and slicked up the roof and floor. Widened the transfers a little. The next thing I want to look at is a bigger carb to feed it. The only 33-45cc saw I like more for the weight is the 3800-4500 Redmax.

 

[chainsaw kid]

Nstueve, once again thanks for your input. I didn't have a chance yesterday to update my progress because I had to catch a flight to Atlanta. However, I did finish the little saw and do some cutting with it. It is a little light nimble powerhouse for it's size. I put a 14" bar w/ 3/8 LP on it. I did do the muffler using the old brace but I cut both sides of it out. As far as that baffle goes, I left it in but I drilled a bunch of holes all the way around it and removed the screen. I didn't open up that stock outlet in the face but I did put about a 3/8 hole in the front (directly in front of the exhaust port). I have pictures of all this on my phone but I am not at home now and can't upload them. I may be able to on my brothers computer in a couple of days..

Now, getting back to the way it ran, it is a powerful little saw but I need to put more time on it to compare to others I have. None the less it is worthy! I am partial to a little top handle 015 I ported a while back. I love that little saw! It wears a 14" 3/8 LP too. Very well balanced/well made only no chain brake. Easiest one hand saw I ever used..
And I have a husky 136 I ported and that saw holds it's own too. That has a 16" 3/8 LP and screams. I don't like how cheap it feels though...but it has power and earned it's place.
The PS-33 feels nice to handle but it also feels a little cheap/delicate. The one screw on the top handle at the top and one at the bottom looks like you cant be rough with this saw. Yet the crank, intake setup, carb, cylinder all look to be nice workmanship. Like I said, I have to put some time on it before I can judge.
All I know is it is fun to work these little saws over, it's nice to have a good light saw to grab. I have a lot of ported saws, 670, 372 w/oem BB, MS460, 026, and a couple others I can't think of. But now you see why I like to have a nice light saw..
Kevin

 

[nstueve]

Now, getting back to the way it ran, it is a powerful little saw but I need to put more time on it to compare to others I have. None the less it is worthy! I am partial to a little top handle 015 I ported a while back. I love that little saw! It wears a 14" 3/8 LP too. Very well balanced/well made only no chain brake. Easiest one hand saw I ever used..
And I have a husky 136 I ported and that saw holds it's own too. That has a 16" 3/8 LP and screams. I don't like how cheap it feels though...but it has power and earned it's place.
The PS-33 feels nice to handle but it also feels a little cheap/delicate. The one screw on the top handle at the top and one at the bottom looks like you cant be rough with this saw. Yet the crank, intake setup, carb, cylinder all look to be nice workmanship. Like I said, I have to put some time on it before I can judge.
All I know is it is fun to work these little saws over, it's nice to have a good light saw to grab. I have a lot of ported saws, 670, 372 w/oem BB, MS460, 026, and a couple others I can't think of. But now you see why I like to have a nice light saw..
Kevin

Weight and agility isn't the problem with most little saws. The biggest problem is RPM/chain speed. I think the 33/401 run around 8500-8700rpm at WOT and has plenty of torque to boot. Port it for more power and then water that power down with a tall rim that will spin the chain faster and you have a winning combination.

Like I kinda inferred earlier... The only stock 40cc saw I like is the Redmax 3800, 4000, 4500; and I haven't had my hands on one of those long enough to port it. Looking at the inside of the cylinders though, those Zenoah cylinders are some of the finest cast cylinders I have ever seen.

 

[chainsaw kid]

I (like you) didn't put a degree wheel on the PS-33. I do know enough though to let go of the wheel on certain saws. I did not tach the ps-33 but I can a sure you it spins 10 + if not 11 + now. It has good throttle response but I can't say it's a torque monster. I raised/shaped the exhaust port, lowered/shaped the intake, widened the intake block (like you) and touched on the transfers a touch....and the squish of course..
When I get back home I'll try and get a little video together. I think it is a little screamer of a saw but as always I'm sure there is more to be had..
Kevin

 

[c5rulz]

So no dice? Nobody has anything to say?

Howdy Kevin


I fired up the 028 last Thursday. It put my 550XPG to shame cutting dirt encrusted frozen oak.