Drilling into the bar to attach auxiliary oiler question

[Holy Mackerel]

When I finally received my bar in the mail after a 6 month wait I was reluctant to drill into for the auxiliary oiler. Instead I elected to have a drip system at the end of the mill.

Needless to say I have seen the error of my ways and plan on drilling the hole for the oil when I get home later.

The problem is I lost the instructions.

So where the heck should I drill this hole?
I figure it should go on the non-cutting (returning end) of the bar.
Approximately how far back from the edge. In other words what size over lap should there be between the bar channel and hole I am drilling?

Thanks,
Wes

 

[redoakneck]

You do not like the drip system??? I have a 36" power match plus bar that Is drilled, but do not use the holes because it limits how wide I can mill. What size bar are you using??

I believe the holes were 1/4", but I do not remember how far into the groove the hole went.

 

[smokinj]

I used a wire tie and just let it drip on to the bar it finds its way to the chain with no CLOGGING!

 

[mtngun]

Needless to say I have seen the error of my ways

What exactly is the error of your ways ? The rest of us prefer a simple drip system.

So where the heck should I drill this hole?
I figure it should go on the non-cutting (returning end) of the bar.

Nope, it goes on the cutting edge.

Approximately how far back from the edge.

Far enough from the edge to not be hit by the drive links. But close enough that the hole intersects the bar slot.

But do yourself a favor and use a simple dripper.

 

[Holy Mackerel]

I have been using the drip method for 6 months.

For the most part it works really well. The problem is my bar is 50" and when cutting much wider boards I can tell the bar is burning up.
The bar has already warped very slightly and my guess is it's due to not having the proper amount of lube.

I would rather give up an inch or two in an effort to protect the pricey bar that took 4 months to come in.

Maybe I am way off. Wouldn't be the first time.

Thanks,
Wes

 

[woodsrunner]

I run a 66 inch bar and let the oil tube just drip onto the bar on the cutting side. I have no problems getting enough oil to the bar and chain. Be sure you have the auxillary oiler on the correct end of the bar. The tip end of the bar. Use a zip tie to position the oiler tube where it will drip on the edge of the bar and the tie straps off the chain.

Scott

 

[820wards]

I have been using the drip method for 6 months.

Wes,

Here is how I setup my friends Alaskan mill for oiling. I used a ball valve so that he can see how far he has opened that valve for oiling. The pictures are from one of my old bars, but he is using a 38" bar with no oiling problems.

jerry-

These are just suggestions.

Using the copper tubing allows him to adjust the end exactly where he wants to oil the chain.

Ball valve coming off oil tank.

I drilled the top of the bar for 1/4-20 thread inserts. That way if he ever strips the threads out it is easy to replace the insert.

Here is how I vent the oil bottle. These are ss bronze vent fittings. I picked them up from a local bearing house for .50$ each. No chance of breaking off a large fitting. Tank is what I welded together with bungs I machined. Black 3/4" pipe fitting is PVC so he can't strip the tank bung.

While I had the mill apart I also drilled/tapped each adjustment bar pads for 3/8"-16. This will give him the option in the future to drill his bar for mounting directly to the adjustment bar. By doing this it will make swapping chains in the field much quicker. When he does remove the clincher bolts, the bar stays attached to the mill frame.

 

[Holy Mackerel]

WOW! I love it.
What a set up!

I did a small milling job for a welder and he has offered to weld me a custom mill next winter during the slow season. A design like this will certainly be incorporated.

For now I think I am going to drill the two holes into the bar. Then when I have a long that I need the max length I will have an alternate hose ready for the drip method.

I feel a little more comfortable after talking to one of the techs at Baileys about compromising the structural integrity of the bar after drilling into it.

Thanks again, I appreciate the responses.
Wes

 

[820wards]

WOW! I love it.
What a set up!

I did a small milling job for a welder and he has offered to weld me a custom mill next winter during the slow season. A design like this will certainly be incorporated.

For now I think I am going to drill the two holes into the bar. Then when I have a long that I need the max length I will have an alternate hose ready for the drip method.

I feel a little more comfortable after talking to one of the techs at Baileys about compromising the structural integrity of the bar after drilling into it.

Thanks again, I appreciate the responses.
Wes

Thanks

Just remember that increasing the oil flow is cheaper that a new bar. The bigger they are the more they are. Good luck.

jerry-

 

[BobL]

I have been using the drip method for 6 months.

For the most part it works really well. The problem is my bar is 50" and when cutting much wider boards I can tell the bar is burning up.
The bar has already warped very slightly and my guess is it's due to not having the proper amount of lube.

Lack of oil will ruin the chain bar and sprocket but the chances of it warping the bar are very small.

This is how much oil I like to see pooling on the bar.

BTW if the log can be sloped downwards going forward the oil will pool naturally to the cutting edge.

 

[john taliaferro]

I only use a 1/4 20 on my 60" 88 . Bout 15 degrees down hill on the log makes the mill self feed . Their is pictures of Bob setting in a chair while mill is cutting, its hard enough work . I use old peanut oil in aux oilier and does good job .

 

[mtngun]

I have been using the drip method for 6 months.

For the most part it works really well. The problem is my bar is 50" and when cutting much wider boards I can tell the bar is burning up.
The bar has already warped very slightly and my guess is it's due to not having the proper amount of lube.

You can apply more lube with a dripper than with the drilled fitting. The flow through the fitting is limited by the small orifice -- and that's before it plugs up with sawdust -- and it will eventually plug up, sometimes several times a day.

Is your bar sprocket nose or hard nose ? Pictures ?

Other things can cause the bar to overheat, like a dull chain, or dinged drive links. If it is a hard nose bar, it's important to let the chain be very loose.

It is not necessary to aim the dripper at the chain. If oil puddles on the nose, it will eventually find its way to the chain -- it has nowhere else to go !

 

[redoakneck]

Lack of oil will ruin the chain bar and sprocket but the chances of it warping the bar are very small.

This is how much oil I like to see pooling on the bar.

BTW if the log can be sloped downwards going forward the oil will pool naturally to the cutting edge.

Wow, that is a lot of oil!!! I always turn my flow down when I see it getting that way, but you been doin this a while and have the best advise so I will let it flow!!!

 

[smokinj]

Wow, that is a lot of oil!!! I always turn my flow down when I see it getting that way, but you been doin this a while and have the best advise so I will let it flow!!!

If your cutting wide stock you can feel the differance with the extra veggie oil!:msp_smile: