Drop starting?

[Philbert]

Are there top handle versions?

More and more:
Husqvarna T540i XP
Makita XCU08Z
STIHL MSA 161 T
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.
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Philbert (not a brand of saws)

 

[mojo jojo]

I used to drop start. I do it occaisonally now. For smaller saws (up to cca 70 ccm) I use "crotch" technique if I can stand normaly (when I am in steep terrain I drop start), but for bigger saws I start them on the floor if ground is relative level and clear (no rocks and branches) otherwise I use drop start. I think ground start is best technique for big saws with big compression and no decomp valve.

 

[merc_man]

How about a little top handle saw? Whats the propper way to start them?

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[teacherman]

I don't have the strength or body mass to cold start a big saw in the prescribed manner, especially one without a decomp, so I drop start. I've never cut myself using the weight of the saw to help pull it over. Feel free to judge or denigrate me for not being the largest dude on the block; I'm way past giving a hoot. Once I get the 880 going and on top of the log, it works quite well for me and it's a whole lotta fun, as long as it's not all day.

 

[82F100SWB]

Drop start? What's that?

 

[Skeans]

There’s two ways to drop start a saw the one that has been shown above using your right hand to pull a rope and one where your right hand stays on the pistol grip. Of the two I’d bet the one that your right hand is on the grip and the left hand to pull the rope is safer with this method your pushing the saw away from you as well keeping control.


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[OM617YOTA]

Depending on how my back is doing on a particular day, just picking the saw up off the ground is going to be an ordeal. Ain't no way I'm going to try and start it down there, too.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I see in NZ they make you strap some silly big leather glove to the handlebar who knows why they mustn't believe anyone could hold onto the handlebar of a saw unaided like the rest of the world lol

Na, you can get those in Aussie as well, they are just not sold as a "safety mitt" over there, they are the optional stubbie holder.

 

[Woodslasher]

I'll start each saw differently, based on how they pull over. If I know they are hard to pull over and try to lock up right before tdc I'll ground start them so they won't jerk and twist in mid air. If they pull over softer or if they're warmed up, I'll drop start them with one hand on the wrap and one on the pull handle. If a saw won't start my brother will grab the trigger with one hand and pull the saw over with the other, but I don't feel as safe doing that. I'll never stick the saw in between my legs to start it, though. All that being said, I just replaced a recoil pulley on a 281 that was splitting in half, probably from a life of drop-starting, and I've got a logger-run 372 XPW recoil that exhibits the same symptoms that the 281 did. So, drop starting a saw many times (such as in a production environment) may cause your recoil pulley to wear out quicker.

 

[ericm979]

You're supposed to put the handle of the saw between your legs, not the chain end.

I start cold large saws on the ground. I used to drop start until a few years back when I saw the brace the saw handle with your thigh technique. That's safer and starts the saw better for me than either version of drop starting.

 

[PV Hiker]

You're supposed to put the handle of the saw between your legs, not the chain end.

Somebody posted a picture of that a while back......

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The way I see it- start it how you want.
No OSH operating procedure writer that gets paid to sit in an air conditioned work station typing screens of shite is there looking over your shoulder- use whatever works for you.
There are a whole lot more dangerous things you can do when using the thing once it is going- never mind starting them in the first place.

 

[Woodslasher]

The way I see it- start it how you want.
No OSH operating procedure writer that gets paid to sit in an air conditioned work station typing screens of shite is there looking over your shoulder- use whatever works for you.
There are a whole lot more dangerous things you can do when using the thing once it is going- never mind starting them in the first place.

Don't forget the golden rule: If you can't start it, you probably shouldn't run it!

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Don't forget the golden rule: If you can't start it, you probably shouldn't run it!

Someone just started another thread along those lines with an Aussie trying to start a Husqvarna.

 

[Woodslasher]

Someone just started another thread along those lines with an Aussie trying to start a Husqvarna.

I've heard that Kiwis have a bad temper and it looks like Aussies are the same. I know I've thrown a brand new Husky when it died 1/4 mile from the truck. F-ing 1-series Huskies aren't worth squat. The chi-com tensioner on my brother's 365 died on that same job about the same distance from the truck. I hand-tensioned the chain and cinched down the bar nuts to finish the job and slapped an oem cover on it as soon as we got home. That job has kept me from ever buying new homeowner saws or chicom crap. I'll buy Proline for obsolete stuff, but that's it.

 

[rogue60]

Na, you can get those in Aussie as well, they are just not sold as a "safety mitt" over there, they are the optional stubbie holder.

View attachment 903766

I got nothing lol

 

[teacherman]

There’s two ways to drop start a saw the one that has been shown above using your right hand to pull a rope and one where your right hand stays on the pistol grip. Of the two I’d bet the one that your right hand is on the grip and the left hand to pull the rope is safer with this method your pushing the saw away from you as well keeping control.


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Neither one of those seems safe or practicable to me. Right hand on top (wrap) handle of saw, left hand on starter handle, bar facing away to the right. Choke, brake, and switch on, slowly pull till on compression stroke, then simultaneously push saw down and pull starter handle up forcefully. Seems the most natural and easiest way to start a saw by far, and a surprisingly comfortable process, especially if a saw has been properly stored by idling it dry, and needs a number of pulls. Bar and chain are facing away, and importantly, remain parallel to the ground as the weight of the saw is more balanced than it is when holding it by the grip handle. I cringe when I see people doing that... Right hand on the pull starter seems to torque the saw body such that the bar comes closer to the body, which seems unsafe to me, for obvious reasons. If there are any saws with the starter handle on the right, hands would be reversed of course.

 

[Skeans]

Neither one of those seems safe or practicable to me. Right hand on top (wrap) handle of saw, left hand on starter handle, bar facing away to the right. Choke, brake, and switch on, slowly pull till on compression stroke, then simultaneously push saw down and pull starter handle up forcefully. Seems the most natural and easiest way to start a saw by far, and a surprisingly comfortable process, especially if a saw has been properly stored by idling it dry, and needs a number of pulls. Bar and chain are facing away, and importantly, remain parallel to the ground as the weight of the saw is more balanced than it is when holding it by the grip handle. I cringe when I see people doing that... Right hand on the pull starter seems to torque the saw body such that the bar comes closer to the body, which seems unsafe to me, for obvious reasons. If there are any saws with the starter handle on the right, hands would be reversed of course.

Do that with a long bar a time or two and you will see which is safer and easier. I remember sitting through a class that was put on by a manufacturer that told us that until one of the guys raised his hand and ask how are we supposed to start a saw standing on a spring board or with a 60” bar? Basically we were told no one ever is in these situations to a group of professional west coast fallers.


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[Bob Hedgecutter]

I've heard that Kiwis have a bad temper and it looks like Aussies are the same. I know I've thrown a brand new Husky when it died 1/4 mile from the truck. F-ing 1-series Huskies aren't worth squat. The chi-com tensioner on my brother's 365 died on that same job about the same distance from the truck. I hand-tensioned the chain and cinched down the bar nuts to finish the job and slapped an oem cover on it as soon as we got home. That job has kept me from ever buying new homeowner saws or chicom crap. I'll buy Proline for obsolete stuff, but that's it.

This is the Kiwi version- note the brand of saw.......

 

[Cycledude]

I’ve tried all the different methods, drop start definitely is my preferred method and I ain’t the least bit worried about hurting myself starting a chainsaw.