Dropping Standing Dead Stuff

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Just tryin' to keep the weakend warriors from diving into the shallow end of the pool.
From what I have seen, some direction is indicated. If you don't like how I or anyone else comes across, there is an ignore feature. I really don't give a flyin' #### but will wait for you to pull a "Brad". In others words, you can kiss my skinny white Scottish ass.
 
Just tryin' to keep the weakend warriors from diving into the shallow end of the pool.
From what I have seen, some direction is indicated. If you don't like how I or anyone else comes across, there is an ignore feature. I really don't give a flyin' #### but will wait for you to pull a "Brad". In others words, you can kiss my skinny white Scottish ass.

Ain't enough meat on yer ass to bother with... And I'd listen to every pissy comment you had to offer on falling trees... Even if all it had to do with is west coast "soft wood" which i hear you guys got out there...
Soft wood...
:msp_biggrin:
 
I think I'll pour a glass of 12 year old and settle in for an evening of entertainment on this thread... :msp_wink:
 
Just tryin' to keep the weakend warriors from diving into the shallow end of the pool.
From what I have seen, some direction is indicated. If you don't like how I or anyone else comes across, there is an ignore feature. I really don't give a flyin' #### but will wait for you to pull a "Brad". In others words, you can kiss my skinny white Scottish ass.

While we have you in such an instructive frame of mind, could you answer for me the why and when you use the "Humbolt" face cut as opposed to the regular face cut?
 
Seriously, well maybe.

Besides having a little to no trim on the butt, the Humboldt will almost always kick the trunk clear of the stump. Done correctly, you can jump a tree into next week. The steeper and deeper the facecut, the longer the tree stays on the stump, a shallow cut will have it pop right off. Sometimes it is easier to use a Humboldt on steep ground.
There is nothing wrong about the open or conventional facecut, keep the backcut just above the gunning cut and cut a snipe off the forward edge, that will force the trunk off the stump and help save out the top better.

spruceopensnipe.jpg
 
Just tryin' to keep the weakend warriors from diving into the shallow end of the pool.
From what I have seen, some direction is indicated. If you don't like how I or anyone else comes across, there is an ignore feature. I really don't give a flyin' #### but will wait for you to pull a "Brad". In others words, you can kiss my skinny white Scottish ass.
Bull. There are plenty of areas where I'm the expert, and I know how to share knowledge graciously. Your goal is clearly to show off how much you know, couched in obscure terms you don't explain to show you're an insider, and maybe post some pictures of yourself in the glory days so we can see how cool you were.

Well I don't suffer fools and it don't matter what you know if the chip on your shoulder is that big - get your skinny ass outta my threads, I don't want your "help".
 
Occasionally I believe I need an open face cut for maximum control of a difficult tree, otherwise I've started using the Humboldt instead of the conventional for most. I like having a nice flat and square butt to start my bucking... the notch wedge comes out's the stump, not your firewood. And I've noticed that often the butt tends to land a bit further from the stump... well, usually... I hate it when the butt is jammed tight against the stump.

addendum; 'Course my cuts ain't always as pretty as those nice straight lines I can draw with my 'puter... just sayin'.

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I'm not a big fan of that straight across fell cut.
On smallish trees it's fine but on big things the tree tends to sit back just enough to pinch even before you have room to start a wedge.

No fun trying to get a pinch saw out of a big tree.

I like my cut going down at about 5d and ending up an inch or so above the V.
Ending that cut an inch above it's quite difficult to cut the hindge away by accident also.
For me i find even on rough trees that 5d down cut gives you much more time to get a wedge or two in before the tree gets an attitude.

Cutting down just a bit on the fell cut and the tree tends to jump away anyway.
More cuts that i have to make is just that :)
 
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Seriously, well maybe.

Besides having a little to no trim on the butt, the Humboldt will almost always kick the trunk clear of the stump. Done correctly, you can jump a tree into next week. The steeper and deeper the facecut, the longer the tree stays on the stump, a shallow cut will have it pop right off. Sometimes it is easier to use a Humboldt on steep ground.
There is nothing wrong about the open or conventional facecut, keep the backcut just above the gunning cut and cut a snipe off the forward edge, that will force the trunk off the stump and help save out the top better.

spruceopensnipe.jpg

Thanks, I use it a lot for saving the butt, I never knew it had a name until I came here, though. I just wondered why yall used it out there, since it had a Northern California name and all.
And thanks for the pictures,too.I wish I would have had a camera a few times, like that time my uncle laid a tall straight red oak across the cab of his truck.That would have been a good one.
 
Bull. There are plenty of areas where I'm the expert, and I know how to share knowledge graciously. Your goal is clearly to show off how much you know, couched in obscure terms you don't explain to show you're an insider, and maybe post some pictures of yourself in the glory days so we can see how cool you were.

Well I don't suffer fools and it don't matter what you know if the chip on your shoulder is that big - get your skinny ass outta my threads, I don't want your "help".

Lol, you never worked on a logging crew did you?
 
Sorry - my term for having the butt of the trunk slide backwards off the stump, what I guess is being referred to as stumpshot.

Around here we call that "slipping the stump"...

Stumpshot is making your back cut well above your face cut - it is the "step" that you were talking about.

Also, I don't know if anybody has mentioned this, but you should try to keeping the pounding to a minimum with the dead snags, with some species it is a great way to knock branches/tops loose. You can set wedges if you must but I like to avoid reefing on them in the dead stuff.
 
Lol, you never worked on a logging crew did you?
Of course not, nor would I want to. I never dreamed of growing up to be a logger - I'm all grown up already and don't feel the need to put up with other people's bull####. I don't care how much someone knows or if they're the best of the best, if they can't be civil or teat people with respect I have no time for them. And just because certain behavior is acceptable on a logging crew doesn't mean it flies other places, no more than telling fart jokes is funny everywhere - if people have no manners it's not my problem.
 
Bull. There are plenty of areas where I'm the expert, and I know how to share knowledge graciously. Your goal is clearly to show off how much you know, couched in obscure terms you don't explain to show you're an insider, and maybe post some pictures of yourself in the glory days so we can see how cool you were.

Well I don't suffer fools and it don't matter what you know if the chip on your shoulder is that big - get your skinny ass outta my threads, I don't want your "help".

Kid, you're so far off base you're not even in the ball park any more.

RandyMac has cut more real trees than you've seen and his methods are sound. If he doesn't explain things to your satisfaction maybe you should have the rest of us explain it to you...we all understand it.

Also, you don't own a thread...even if you start it. You're just the first guy to speak.

I think it's real clear who has the chip on their shoulder.

Maybe you'd be happier some place else.
 
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Around here we call that "slipping the stump"...

Stumpshot is making your back cut well above your face cut - it is the "step" that you were talking about.

Also, I don't know if anybody has mentioned this, but you should try to keeping the pounding to a minimum with the dead snags, with some species it is a great way to knock branches/tops loose. You can set wedges if you must but I like to avoid reefing on them in the dead stuff.
Thank you! This particular tree had nothing left up top. I'll try to avoid shaking the fragile ones - I've never really used the wedges to try to move the tree much, mostly to keep it from rocking back. I think the deeper face cut for these dead trees without much mass up top will help a lot. I want the tree's weight to pull it down rather than trying to jack it over with wedges.
 
Kid, you're so far off base you're not even in the ball park any more.

RandyMac has cut more real trees than you've seen and his methods are sound. If he doesn't explain things to your satisfaction maybe you should have the rest of us explain it to you...we all understand it.

Also, you don't own a thread...even if you start it. You're just the first guy to speak.

I think it's real clear who has the chip on their shoulder.

Maybe you'd be happier some place else.
I never doubted his experience or methods at all, just pointed out his tiresome trashing of others to build himself up.

Still, life is busy and I have no need to crash your party - carry on, I'm gone.
 
I think the deeper face cut for these dead trees without much mass up top will help a lot.

Yeah, it has it's place. It can also be more dangerous if you read the lean of the tree wrong. Or if it puts your hinge into rotten heartwood, for example. Or if you start cutting your face way too deep for that particular tree and it pinches or fails.....
 
I didn't grow up dreaming of logging, it was a tie between locomotives and the headrig at Mill B.

The term "wiener" is as not as derogatory as you think, more like novice, cub, puppy, it takes time to grow to a boar.

I will never steer you wrong, this is serious business. Knowing when to walk away is something I learned the hard way, I am a knothead.
 
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