Ebay Husqvarna 262xp scored piston. Advice please.

[Mattyo]

AND for the $ you will pay the dealer to fix u can buy comp and vac equipment.

 

[weimedog]

They come apart easy. Case splitters are cheap. Love that 254/257/262 chassis as a hobby saw. Simple. Bearings and seals easy to get. Decent am support.

With those old saws regardless of hours....just get to replacing that rubber/soft stuff. Saves so much aggrevation. Can really over analyze this stuff at times..

 

[Tor R]

For a one saw repair I count it as waste of money to invest in vacuum&preasure and compression equipment.
The way I judge those pictures this 262 hasnt been abused or have that many hours in use, but it's an old saw.
I wouldnt spend much time at the dealer, pop the jug and check how bad it is first and take it from there.

 

[Mattyo]

Okay so is a next best alternative ...just pop out the seals and put new ones in put a new piston in it clean up the cylinder new gasket set call it a day

Pray ya don't mess up a collectable cylinder.

 

[weimedog]

Okay so is a next best alternative ...just pop out the seals and put new ones in put a new piston in it clean up the cylinder new gasket set call it a day

Pray ya don't mess up a collectable cylinder.

Yup... expect carb and fuel line type stuff to aggrevate you some...

 

[weimedog]

Vac stuff isn't that expensive either.
Love these low cost motor sports!

 

[Tor R]

Well, the previous owner have had the saw for 5 years, so he is at least the 3th owner, who know if they swapped seals, etc earlier, I wouldnt count on it, if it was my saw I would at least pull the cylinder and see how bad it really is, my bet is that it's not bad at all.
Pull the flywheel, off with the seal holder and check what version seal are, because those old 262's had a different type seal vs later 262's (this will tell you if seals has been exchanged by one of the earlier owner), I would rather figure out those things instead of wasting time with vacuum&preasure testing an 26 year old saw who is slighlty scored, and defently need a little investment.

Later, when everything is sorted out and the saw is rebuild again, sure, vacuum & preasure test!

Just my 2 cent

 

[weimedog]

those old 262's had a different type seal vs later 262's (this will tell you if seals has been exchanged by one of the earlier owner),
Just my 2 cent

Yup. The old ones had a metal vs. plastic part. They are NLA. Think the plastic ones are still available. I have seen the plastic one "potatoe chip" my guess is just from age.

I recently did the bottom end on a 254 where the story was it had been done but the saw didn't last. When I got it the piston was wasted but the cylinder was both low hours and salvageable. After getting the aluminum off, then I had to get the "white" corrosion from the chicken poop that covered the top and into the cylinder as the plug was out. Turns out that when who ever had done the prior work put in the flywheel side bearings, they didn't take into account the plastic bearing holder that needs to actually go into the case .020-.030"....so I pulled off that seal holder and it was flexed down to each corner .. looked pretty cool actually. But since the "o-ring" didn't get completely into the case, there was one hell of an air leak!

 

[Tor R]

Yup. The old ones had a metal vs. plastic part. They are NLA. Think the plastic ones are still available. I have seen the plastic one "potatoe chip" my guess is just from age.

I recently did the bottom end on a 254 where the story was it had been done but the saw didn't last. When I got it the piston was wasted but the cylinder was both low hours and salvageable. After getting the aluminum off, then I had to get the "white" corrosion from the chicken poop that covered the top and into the cylinder as the plug was out. Turns out that when who ever had done the prior work put in the flywheel side bearings, they didn't take into account the plastic bearing holder that needs to actually go into the case .020-.030"....so I pulled off that seal holder and it was flexed down to each corner .. looked pretty cool actually. But since the "o-ring" didn't get completely into the case, there was one hell of an air leak!

if he has those original seals (they are easy to see the different vs later type seal) they should defently be swapped, and I belive the seal holder is metal, I had one 91 XP who had seal holder in metal, the only non 262 XPG I've had.

Lol ya that should give you a huge airleak!!

 

[southland1]

Pretty sure it is a 1994 week 33 #1032 from what I have read and what saw troll said. As far as I know the ones without the decomp button, earlier versions, usually have the hda-87. Mine is stamped on the flywheel side of the carb.

That number points at 1994 week 33, and then the IPL listed a cylinder with decomp valve and a HDA-120 carb. That isn't 100% reliable info for a couple of reasons though, so you need to look closer at it...

Thanks men, have confirmed it has a 120 carb and decomp cylinder, starting my own thread now, no more hijacking yours. BonScott46, you could probably do the rebuild, not that difficult if you have a video on reassembly(linked earlier) and the help of these guys. I'm no mechanic and just finished rebuilding a Stihl MS390 that had a locked piston but a reassembly video is very helpful.

 

[BonScott46]

UPDATE:
Picked up the saw and talked to the doc. Said he did a pressure AND vac test which showed NO LEAKS. Don't know what was going on yesterday when I was asking about it, lost in translation I guess. Said he could not run a compression test, did not get to ask why lots of customers and it was closing time. They never called to tell me the saw was done I just showed up. Said they tried to start it but could not get it running, again did not have an opportunity to go into specifics with him. He said he did not test the fuel line when I asked. He acted like it was still risky to try and put a new cylinder in it and get it running, but then again he told me the cylinder was most likely ruined without even taking it off.
Brought it home, stripped it down and took off the cylinder. The beauty of simplicity, it took only a couple of minutes. This is what I found...

 

[BonScott46]

 

[BonScott46]

Can't feel anything on the cylinder with my finger or fingernail. Exhaust side of the piston is definitely damaged but not terribly although I can feel missing material with my fingernail. Seems to be a good amount of what I think is cross hatching left. A white coating on the roof of the intake port. All in all I am feeling pretty . Or am I missing something?

 

[weimedog]

I wud scuff the cylinder wall and put in a new meteor piston and ring. If meteor has one! I wud put in seals regardless because of the age....I've had a string of bad carburetor on my 254/262 projects so getting gun shy on carbs too! And of course the simple stuff like fuel line & filter.

 

[weimedog]

They were good saws.

 

[Full Chisel]

That is very light transfer in the cylinder, you could probably run it as is but it would clean up very easily with some emery cloth or fine grit sandpaper and some elbow grease.

Definitely throw in a new piston and ring...that one is trashed. Agree with doing seals given the saws age, as well as lines. Might as well do it right.

 

[blsnelling]

You have some very mild transfer above the exhaust port. That must be cleaned off. I strongly suggest you do it by hand and not with a rotary tool. If not removed, those are high spots that will likely lead to scuffing on the new piston.

 

[Mattyo]

Bon.... you get top points for bravery taking apart the cylinder. Most guys wouldn't attempt that. Nice job...AND ya got kinda lucky. Replace the seals anyway...new piston...fuel lines and filter. ...maybe carb kit and away u go!

 

[BonScott46]

Going to order a new piston and ring today. Trying to find a fuel line and carb kit. The carb kits are a bit confusing some are listed for the 357 and the 262 some are listed for only the 357. I have looked closely at the pictures and everything looks the same. You guys think I should open up the carb so I can compare directly?

 

[BonScott46]

You have some very mild transfer above the exhaust port. That must be cleaned off. I strongly suggest you do it by hand and not with a rotary tool. If not removed, those are high spots that will likely lead to scuffing on the new piston.

Are we talking 320 grit or higher with little 2 stroke oil lubrication? Should I try to recreate the cross hatching as much as possible?