Ebay Husqvarna 262xp scored piston. Advice please.

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How can I tell which it is? Is it stamped someplace? Do I need to count the number of slots for the drive links?

If you look closely at the rims, they usually say what it is on them (but the "/" in 3/8 often is left out, and just a 3 and a 8 is there - and it usually is a bit "untidy" because of space issues). The "pin" number usually is there as well.
 
Found a couple on ebay. Seems that they are described as before or after 1993.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-5...hash=item2a33e1a587:m:m51aJ3D7ZNi852xCG55eR8A

Wrote to see if I they the pre 1993 version in stock. It is the most complete set but I don't know about the quality.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-2...hash=item542e00a027:m:mobPZAB0uwQIu8zs3M2LkLQ

Or I could get the Powermate off of parts tree. Don't know if I should just replace the whole assembly while I am in there. I am definitely past the point of no return with this saw but I am learning quite a bit which is never a bad thing. This is all a bit confusing but you guys are saving me a lot of hastle with all of this information.
 
If you look closely at the rims, they usually say what it is on them (but the "/" in 3/8 often is left out, and just a 3 and a 8 is there - and it usually is a bit "untidy" because of space issues). The "pin" number usually is there as well.

Have not gotten the clutch off yet unfortunately. I have been asking around for a grinder but no luck yet. At this point I am pretty heavily invested in this saw so I will not be selling it anytime soon and I want to do everything that I can myself.

Would a smaller handheld grinder be sufficient to grind down a socket to remove the clutch or would you need something more substantial like a bench grinder. Again, never done anything like this before so my apologies for the lack of knowledge.
 
I must admit I made a rookie mistake and ordered 3/8 pitch chain and bar because that is what I had seen on a couple of 262 sizing charts and that is what I wanted to run anyway hence I won't be returning it and will instead switch out the sprocket.
 
Have not gotten the clutch off yet unfortunately. I have been asking around for a grinder but no luck yet. At this point I am pretty heavily invested in this saw so I will not be selling it anytime soon and I want to do everything that I can myself.

Would a smaller handheld grinder be sufficient to grind down a socket to remove the clutch or would you need something more substantial like a bench grinder. Again, never done anything like this before so my apologies for the lack of knowledge.

I suspect that you can remove the clutch with just a drift and a hammer, but be aware that the threads are left-handed. At least you can on the newer outboard clutch Huskys, but I don't have a 262 to look at here, so I can't say 100% for sure.

It usually just is a matter of placing the drift in a suitable place on the clutch, a giving it a sharp blow with the hammer. No piston stop is needed.
 
Why should you need to grind on the clutch?
19mm hexagon socket tool (19mm seks Kants pipeverktøy)
You loose it up turning with the clock.

If you buy a little batch parts there is no economy buying them from US compared to any Husky dealers in Sweeden due shipping cost
 
Ok, that will go on far enough to get a good hold on the hex bolt? There is only a couple of mm that it can 'grab' onto before hitting the clutch shoes. On the video I have seen with the 262 and other videos with 372's a three toothed socket was used to slide down in between the shoes onto the bolt.
 
It's more 5 mm grip.
I always use tools who bring the torque as close as possible to the clutch, it's when you use tools who bring your torque on a longer distance from your clutch that you slip over.
I've taken off 30 242/254/262 clutches last year, only once I had problem.
 
Hey guys it has been a while. Flywheel is off. Trying to find a 19mm that is snug fitting to try and take the clutch off. I have put a couple on but they have not been tight enough. There is very little depth for the socket to grab onto so I want to have the best fit possible.

I have a couple questions. I am about to switch out the diaphrams on the carb, anything I need to know? Anything I should be doing to help it seal up properly when I put it back together? Also, it looks as though the gasket between the cylinder and intake block was glued to the intake with what looks like super glue. I have tried to scrape off as much as possible with my fingernails but am hesitant to scrape with anything sharp for fear of damaging the mating surface of the intake block. Anybody have suggestions of something I could use to try and soften it up/dissolve it? Should I sand it? I don't have a flat plate. :/
DSC01883.JPG
 
if you must absolutely do something with it, then take a piece of flat glass, place a sheet of 1200 grit wet dry on it (put some oil on it, any will do) and go at it. glass is the flattest thing you will find around the house and shop; short of a proper lapping block.

personally I would not do anything more than put some sealer on it.

Note I am not a chainsaw specialist, but I do rebuild rotaries, subarus and porsche engines on a regular basis
 
I have had some VERY difficult 262 clutches. They are stuck on there for many years.... and are tight. I ground my own clutch removal tool out of a socket, then piston stop, then sometimes I have to use a breaker bar with the socket tool, but you need to push against something... so take a long screwdriver and put it through the bar studs, and work the breaker bar against that. pull up on the screwdriver, and down on the breaker bar. it aint easy sometimes.
 
I have had some VERY difficult 262 clutches. They are stuck on there for many years.... and are tight. I ground my own clutch removal tool out of a socket, then piston stop, then sometimes I have to use a breaker bar with the socket tool, but you need to push against something... so take a long screwdriver and put it through the bar studs, and work the breaker bar against that. pull up on the screwdriver, and down on the breaker bar. it aint easy sometimes.
I noticed that the play on the 262 clutch is kinda critical, too tight and it sticks, too loose and it will damage the oil pump worm. I had to shim mine up a bit..
 
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