Ebay Husqvarna 262xp scored piston. Advice please.

[a. palmer jr.]

I went out and looked it over and didn't see any numbers on the carburetor but it was kinda hard to see them without taking the cylinder cover off. At least it got a little cleaning while I was there. It looked like the same kind of carburetor that was on my 359 though. The 359 had a Walbro 199 I think.

 

[BonScott46]

UPDATE: Sorry I have been MIA on this thread. Things have been going slow. Seals are done. Clutch came off with a regular socket. Now I need to rebuild the carb, swith fuel line/filter, piston and so on. Debating what to do about squish. Maybe get a pop up cut..... does anyone know what kind of compression these KS cylinders have with the squish at .020? Also picked up a couple more 262's, one with an 87 and a plugged mahle and heated handes, the other with a 120 and a no decomp mahle. The one with the 87 and heated handles is a mess, what they call brukskick here, crack in the top edge of the case and in general **** shape but runs ok. The one with the 120 has a case marked with a tag from a 1999 242G. It has a switch for heated handles but none of the hardware. Have been talking to Tor about it and we can't figure out anything except that it looks like a 1993 262. Maybe it was stolen at some point? Tag was swapped? Anyhoo next project is swapping the 87 and the heated handles over to the no decomp mahle. That is where everything stands now.

 

[Mattyo]

it will either be a 120, 144, or 87 ... you should be able to see the number, but I forget which side it would be printed on...

 

[a. palmer jr.]

it will either be a 120, 144, or 87 ... you should be able to see the number, but I forget which side it would be printed on...

I can only see one side, the right side as you're holding the saw, the other is covered up with all the carb adjustment screws and the covers. I have a magnifier, when I get out there again I'll see if I can find it. It looked pretty plain to me though, no markings..The saw runs pretty good so I'm not gonna tear it down for fear that I might screw up something.

 

[Mattyo]

Take the top fully off. The 87 carb is worth 100$ by itself

The likelyhood goes up if the first digit on the serial # is 0

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The first digit on mine is 5 and I think the number on the carb is something like 120 if I saw it right under all the dirt and grease. I thought this might be a good opportunity to clean it up a bit since the top was off and put a new kill switch on it to replace the broken one. Nope, I don't have the expensive carb...still seems to run good though..

 

[Mattyo]

It will run fine...but it's not as collectable. Best of luck with it....sorry for the derail

 

[a. palmer jr.]

It will run fine...but it's not as collectable. Best of luck with it....sorry for the derail

Nah, no problem. I don't think we have any collectors around here anyway, just firewood cutters and farmers. The outside of this saw doesn't look like anything you would set on the shelf, more like something to use..I forgot to mention, the saw is not going to be completely original, I ordered a knock-off chain brake and cover for it.

 

[Mattyo]

my current 262 looks pretty shabby, but it has a Dr Al ported motor under the hood and new bearings and seals.... one of the strongest 262s out there

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Mine was given to me in a trade and was told the oiler didn't work. I checked it out and the worm gear had been worn smooth so repaired that and checked the pump. I still haven't tried it out to see if it oils.

 

[BonScott46]

Update: Ran a tank through this saw about two weeks ago 165psi. Ran another tank and a half through it and it is now at 190psi. I used a self cut gasket from 'gasket paper' and am running a B class piston in the A class cylinder , squish is a shade under .020. I am going to keep a close eye on it and will proabably put a thicker gasket in. Saw is running fat, four stroking bar buried, has a choked up muffler and is running a 64DL Prolite. Lots of noise from the clutch, put a new clutch spring in but it did not help. I noticed today when I was checking it for damage after running it, there was none, one of the clutch ends is a little thicker and the new Oregon drum I put on the saw when I switched over to the worm gear oiler setup is a little out of round so it klings and klangs quite a bit. It is definately thirsty, very thirsty.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I ended up putting a new oil pump on mine, it wouldn't oil even with the new worm gear but it oils now!

 

[BonScott46]

I am not liking the small diameter top handle. I need to put some thicker rubber hose or something on it, definately like the feel of my 044 better.

 

[blsnelling]

Update: Ran a tank through this saw about two weeks ago 165psi. Ran another tank and a half through it and it is now at 190psi. I used a self cut gasket from 'gasket paper' and am running a B class piston in the A class cylinder , squish is a shade under .020. I am going to keep a close eye on it and will proabably put a thicker gasket in. Saw is running fat, four stroking bar buried, has a choked up muffler and is running a 64DL Prolite. Lots of noise from the clutch, put a new clutch spring in but it did not help. I noticed today when I was checking it for damage after running it, there was none, one of the clutch ends is a little thicker and the new Oregon drum I put on the saw when I switched over to the worm gear oiler setup is a little out of round so it klings and klangs quite a bit. It is definately thirsty, very thirsty.

Your squish is right where you want it, not at all too tight. Don't run your saw that rich. You want it to clean up in the cut, even on initial break-in. Running that rich will do nothing good for you.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I am not liking the small diameter top handle. I need to put some thicker rubber hose or something on it, definately like the feel of my 044 better.

I found something that might be helpful. While browsing a flea market I found some handlebar grips for a zero turn mower which measured about 2 feet long or so and about the size of a chainsaw handlebar, they are made of a foam rubber which felt fairly soft, just wondering what that would do for a saw.

 

[BonScott46]

Something like that might work. I would want something that is durable and is not going to get torn. I will be on the look out.

 

[BonScott46]

@blsnelling thanks for the tips. I am going to drill some holes in the baffle and cut out the pipe that runs from one side to the other connecting the area behind the baffle to the outlet. It should be a little less restrictive but not to drastic. Will see where the tune sits after that. Is it worth it in your opinion to lower the cylinder that much when running a relatively short bar?

 

[grizz55chev]

Can somebody please put up the link to the Mastermind Method? Looked through the chainsaw stickies and 10 pages of his threads but still came up blank.

Type it into google.

 

[BonScott46]

It starts consistantly now, three pulls full choke with no real pop and then one on high idle. Has to be started on high idle if it has been sitting for more than a couple minutes. Cut out the pipe that ran from the outlet to the opposite side of the muffler. Definately less restrictive even though I have not touched the baffle or opened up the outlet.

 

[Jacob J.]

Looking good. Have you had time to dress up your 2065?