Echo vs. Husky

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I have no idea what that smiley is but it is not the monkey nose I've been typing in. I've a creeping suspicion that it's a brown-noser. :-D
 
You will find all kinds of material out there as far as climbing and safety standards go. One thing that is worth mentioning if you are planing on using that saw in the tree is HAVE TWO TIE IN POINTS BEFORE YOU EVER START YOUR SAW!

I have used all kinds of climbing saws. The lighter duty 192's and Echo's are fine for light duty work. I have found for doing large removals there is no substitute for the Stihl 200T.

Yeah, boyeeeeee. 200T rules. :laugh:
 
I read the original post and thought "this guy is gonna get blasted off the internet" but the patient replies have impressed me.
Heck! I think I will follow the good example of the others and add a couple bits.
As was advised earlier, get the Tree Climbers Companion, read it, read it again, then come back with inevitably more questions. Its cheap, concise and informative.
Order a free Sherrill catalog. Lots of cartoons depicting the use of equipment, plus the cost of all these wonderful toys. Pay attention to safety warnings they scatter around.
Running a saw in a tree is not the same as on the ground. Cuts that are "good enough" on the ground can get you hurt bad in a tree. Perfect your techniques; plunge cuts, snap cuts, perfect face cuts, perfect hinge etc. and know where and when to use them before you're tied to a tree. Use your hand saw first as you learn about working positions. If you buy a good Silky you will hardly ever need a chainsaw for prunes.
Use your chain brake.
Hanging unconscious for 5 minutes or more is a death sentence so have a plan shared with somebody on the ground how to get you down if you have an accident or med emergency. Calling the fire dept may not fly, time wise.
 
I read the original post and thought "this guy is gonna get blasted off the internet" but the patient replies have impressed me.
Heck! I think I will follow the good example of the others and add a couple bits.

Agreed, guuuud stuff
 
Thanks again! I admit, I did get sand bagged when I reposted this over in the chainsaw forum for my ignorance (I almost started asking the guy who was calling me a troll if he knew how to build a house from basement to ridge vent. But I refrained :) ) you guys have been awesome and I appreciate all the advice. I will take it to heart and I will deffinitely have that book on hand. The library has the one that was recommended above waiting for me.

Thanks for your patience. And look out for me in the future. :)
 
I read the original post and thought "this guy is gonna get blasted off the internet" but the patient replies have impressed me.
Heck! I think I will follow the good example of the others and add a couple bits.
As was advised earlier, get the Tree Climbers Companion, read it, read it again, then come back with inevitably more questions. Its cheap, concise and informative.
Order a free Sherrill catalog. Lots of cartoons depicting the use of equipment, plus the cost of all these wonderful toys. Pay attention to safety warnings they scatter around.
Running a saw in a tree is not the same as on the ground. Cuts that are "good enough" on the ground can get you hurt bad in a tree. Perfect your techniques; plunge cuts, snap cuts, perfect face cuts, perfect hinge etc. and know where and when to use them before you're tied to a tree. Use your hand saw first as you learn about working positions. If you buy a good Silky you will hardly ever need a chainsaw for prunes.
Use your chain brake.
Hanging unconscious for 5 minutes or more is a death sentence so have a plan shared with somebody on the ground how to get you down if you have an accident or med emergency. Calling the fire dept may not fly, time wise.

I second the "learn the cuts on the ground" advice. Because I didn't. I learned to carve a good hinge in the tree. Had a couple close calls. If I went back, I'd have done it the other way around. Whose perfect?:msp_biggrin:
 
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