Incomplete
ArboristSite Guru
I have no idea what that smiley is but it is not the monkey nose I've been typing in. I've a creeping suspicion that it's a brown-noser. :-D
You will find all kinds of material out there as far as climbing and safety standards go. One thing that is worth mentioning if you are planing on using that saw in the tree is HAVE TWO TIE IN POINTS BEFORE YOU EVER START YOUR SAW!
I have used all kinds of climbing saws. The lighter duty 192's and Echo's are fine for light duty work. I have found for doing large removals there is no substitute for the Stihl 200T.
I read the original post and thought "this guy is gonna get blasted off the internet" but the patient replies have impressed me.
Heck! I think I will follow the good example of the others and add a couple bits.
I read the original post and thought "this guy is gonna get blasted off the internet" but the patient replies have impressed me.
Heck! I think I will follow the good example of the others and add a couple bits.
As was advised earlier, get the Tree Climbers Companion, read it, read it again, then come back with inevitably more questions. Its cheap, concise and informative.
Order a free Sherrill catalog. Lots of cartoons depicting the use of equipment, plus the cost of all these wonderful toys. Pay attention to safety warnings they scatter around.
Running a saw in a tree is not the same as on the ground. Cuts that are "good enough" on the ground can get you hurt bad in a tree. Perfect your techniques; plunge cuts, snap cuts, perfect face cuts, perfect hinge etc. and know where and when to use them before you're tied to a tree. Use your hand saw first as you learn about working positions. If you buy a good Silky you will hardly ever need a chainsaw for prunes.
Use your chain brake.
Hanging unconscious for 5 minutes or more is a death sentence so have a plan shared with somebody on the ground how to get you down if you have an accident or med emergency. Calling the fire dept may not fly, time wise.