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Quick question for those experienced with this machine. The dealer told me that the anvil has 4 sides and should be rotated every 250 hours. Based on the condition this machine was in when we picked it up I'm assuming there's 3 good sides and one that's beat ta hell. Anyone ever rotated one of those anvil's that could run me through the procedure?

Seriously though, can anyone answer this question?
 
you mean the bed knife?

Thanks, boss. I'm pretty pumped.

Quick question for those experienced with this machine. The dealer told me that the anvil has 4 sides and should be rotated every 250 hours. Based on the condition this machine was in when we picked it up I'm assuming there's 3 good sides and one that's beat ta hell. Anyone ever rotated one of those anvil's that could run me through the procedure?

they are easy to adjust and rotate unless it has never been done beforethe bolts can be a bugger if never loosened.

the thickness gauge is cheap enough.the bed knife (plate/anvil) is reasonable too if i recall.make sure the belts are adjusted right too.

nice job.those are great machines.
 
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they are easy to adjust and rotate unless it has never been done before.the thickness gauge is cheap enough.

nice job.those are great machines.

Yeah, the bed knife, anvil, cutter bar. Different names, but I think they mean the same thing. The dealer told me to set the anvil one dime's width away from the knife edge. Can you help me out, boss?
 
Lookin sharp Blakes, congrats. Now it needs white letter tires and spinner hubcaps.

After a couple months, when the paint fully sets up, you could wax it. Not for shiny looks or rust prevention but to make it easier to wash. I would imagine you would want your investment to look its best. Paint oxidation would also be impeded.

With your new found painting skills, what's next?
 
Lookin sharp Blakes, congrats. Now it needs white letter tires and spinner hubcaps.

After a couple months, when the paint fully sets up, you could wax it. Not for shiny looks or rust prevention but to make it easier to wash. I would imagine you would want your investment to look its best. Paint oxidation would also be impeded.

With your new found painting skills, what's next?

I was wondering 'bout the wax. Thanks for the info and seriously, thanks for the compliment. You see that old chevy pickup in the one shot? Her name's Betsy and I bee eyein' her up for a little spray job. Hopefully we'll get to her this summer. I want to send our Ford dump down the road, salvage the ez dumper and chip box from it and slide them into the chevy once there's some new paint and beefed up springs underneath. Just waitin' for the work. Thanks again, Nemus, for all the great advice about painting. You should post more, boss, you got good stuff to share.
 
Yeah, the bed knife, anvil, cutter bar. Different names, but I think they mean the same thing. The dealer told me to set the anvil one dime's width away from the knife edge. Can you help me out, boss?

I have a Bandit that has the same design as yours, first you will have to fire up the chipper so you can lift the feed wheels and put in the pin, or large bolt if you don't have the pins that come with it. The pin goes through a horizontal hole that will only be accessible when the feed wheel is raised all the way up, once that is done then you can look into the feed shoot, from a distance, and see the disk turning and the anvil will be located vertically on the right side of the opening against the disk. Shut down the machine and ensure that the disk has stopped, there should be another pin hole on the road side of the machine behind the oil reservoir and under the flat ledge that holds up the "lid" to the cutter disk compartment when it's opened. That pin hole lines up with the cutter disk to lock the disk for safety.

Now that the cutting disk can't move and the feed wheel is safely held open it's time to inspect the anvil by crawling into the feed shoot and locating it. There should be about three bolts on the curbside that hold the anvil in place, my model has an L shaped anvil so there are two small bolts to adjust the correct spacing. Loosen these large bolts, probably an 1 1/2" socket and they are usually very very tight so the anvil doesn't move with the vibrations. Just inspect the anvil once removed and see what edge you want installed, replacement of the anvil and spacing usually takes two people to save tons of time crawling in and out.

I use a bench grinder to clean up the cutting edge of my anvil but make sure you have it square in all directions so you can get the proper spacing. Call the local dealer to find out the proper torque setting for your year model, my dealer told me to use a credit card to set the spacing. If you need pictures of anything I have talked about then just let me know and I'll take and post them tomorrow.
 
I have a Bandit that has the same design as yours, first you will have to fire up the chipper so you can lift the feed wheels and put in the pin, or large bolt if you don't have the pins that come with it. The pin goes through a horizontal hole that will only be accessible when the feed wheel is raised all the way up, once that is done then you can look into the feed shoot, from a distance, and see the disk turning and the anvil will be located vertically on the right side of the opening against the disk. Shut down the machine and ensure that the disk has stopped, there should be another pin hole on the road side of the machine behind the oil reservoir and under the flat ledge that holds up the "lid" to the cutter disk compartment when it's opened. That pin hole lines up with the cutter disk to lock the disk for safety.

Now that the cutting disk can't move and the feed wheel is safely held open it's time to inspect the anvil by crawling into the feed shoot and locating it. There should be about three bolts on the curbside that hold the anvil in place, my model has an L shaped anvil so there are two small bolts to adjust the correct spacing. Loosen these large bolts, probably an 1 1/2" socket and they are usually very very tight so the anvil doesn't move with the vibrations. Just inspect the anvil once removed and see what edge you want installed, replacement of the anvil and spacing usually takes two people to save tons of time crawling in and out.

I use a bench grinder to clean up the cutting edge of my anvil but make sure you have it square in all directions so you can get the proper spacing. Call the local dealer to find out the proper torque setting for your year model, my dealer told me to use a credit card to set the spacing. If you need pictures of anything I have talked about then just let me know and I'll take and post them tomorrow.

I shouldn't need pics, that sounds pretty straight forward. Thank you, sir, for the advice.
 
a dime's width seems a little close.

you have to take deflection into consideration.hence the factory tool.it's also long to reach in there.it's just a long piece of thin flat mild steel.i go 20-25 thousandths.or i keep adjusting it until i get the chips how i like them.
 
I have a Bandit that has the same design as yours, first you will have to fire up the chipper so you can lift the feed wheels and put in the pin, or large bolt if you don't have the pins that come with it. The pin goes through a horizontal hole that will only be accessible when the feed wheel is raised all the way up, once that is done then you can look into the feed shoot, from a distance, and see the disk turning and the anvil will be located vertically on the right side of the opening against the disk. Shut down the machine and ensure that the disk has stopped, there should be another pin hole on the road side of the machine behind the oil reservoir and under the flat ledge that holds up the "lid" to the cutter disk compartment when it's opened. That pin hole lines up with the cutter disk to lock the disk for safety.

Now that the cutting disk can't move and the feed wheel is safely held open it's time to inspect the anvil by crawling into the feed shoot and locating it. There should be about three bolts on the curbside that hold the anvil in place, my model has an L shaped anvil so there are two small bolts to adjust the correct spacing. Loosen these large bolts, probably an 1 1/2" socket and they are usually very very tight so the anvil doesn't move with the vibrations. Just inspect the anvil once removed and see what edge you want installed, replacement of the anvil and spacing usually takes two people to save tons of time crawling in and out.

I use a bench grinder to clean up the cutting edge of my anvil but make sure you have it square in all directions so you can get the proper spacing. Call the local dealer to find out the proper torque setting for your year model, my dealer told me to use a credit card to set the spacing. If you need pictures of anything I have talked about then just let me know and I'll take and post them tomorrow.

That sounds about right but track down a manual Blakes. Its is a pretty simple and quick thing with 2 people. Watch when you put BRAND NEW knives in as the anvil might be adjusted to fit knives which have been sharpened a few times.
 
That sounds about right but track down a manual Blakes. Its is a pretty simple and quick thing with 2 people. Watch when you put BRAND NEW knives in as the anvil might be adjusted to fit knives which have been sharpened a few times.

Thanks for the tip. There was new knives in there when I bought it so I think I'm ok and to be honest, it's spitting very nice chips right now. I just want to rotate it for my own piece of mind really. Good to know what's going on with the machine. I probably should call up the dealer and order a manual. Makes sense.
 
Good advice Dan.

I rotate through five sets of knives with my Bandit 250, always using the longest set on hand. I only adjust the anvil when I can tell it's taking too big of a bite.

If a knife hits the anvil it's going to do some bad damage.

Oh boy, I will have to take some pics of mine which I need to flip. I don't know what could have went through to chomp it up like it is.
 
If a knife hits the anvil it's going to do some bad damage.

and being too wide a gap puts stress on the whole machine. IMO waiting till you see it struggle is too long. Then again the small operator has so many little things to do that knives are often on the bottom of any list.

It is good rainy day work...that is if you have a roof to work under!
 
Luckily we only had to travel about 5 miles to look at it. :clap: The guy was all distraught as we started pointing out everything we saw wrong with it. I think he's just a part time equipment dealer and thought he was way over his head. Anyway, I beat him up on the price pretty good and made the deal "as is". We spent a few days ironing it out and it looks a bit better now.

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looks great,got a bandit going to redo,any leads n were too get decals and stickers nice job buy the way,thinkin of going army green with all my stuff.
 
looks great,got a bandit going to redo,any leads n were too get decals and stickers nice job buy the way,thinkin of going army green with all my stuff.

Just call your bandit dealer, he'll have them. Thanks for the compliment, chief.
 

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